VI Cutty

I've got a '71 Cutlass S, original 350 SBO/TH350 column shift, bench seat. I'm sure it would be really nice having a manual/4 speed instead :-)

I'm going to look at a '72 Cutlass S (complete parts car) with a 4 speed, buckets, console and all the rest of the parts needed for converting my '71 to a 4 speed...but I do have a few questions before I jump in too far.

- What should I look for in the cowl tag to confirm whether the '72 is a factory 4 speed or may be a conversion? If I'm going to do this, I'd rather start out with the right parts.

- The parts car is advertised as having a Chev 350, and I understand the difference between Chev/Olds bolt patterns on the trans. Is there a quick way to check whether the trans will match the Olds? I want to keep the '71 running Olds power and would prefer to not have to use an adapter plate.

- Does the AT crank need to be removed if it needs the hole drilled for use with the manual, or can it be done while in the block?

- Do the bucket seats/seat belts use existing mounts and bolt holes, or will I need to install some new ones?

Assuming I can get the car at the price I'd like to pay, what else should I be aware of, check or watch for relating to this swap?

I'm not building a 442 clone, just looking to make what I have a little more fun. From the photos I've seen of the '72, it has a lot of other small parts I need for my '71 anyhow...but the question comes down to whether I pay a bit more for those parts, or go for the gusto.

joe_padavano

There's nothing on the cowl tag that will tell you that for a 1972 model.

In that case, the trans probably got swapped with the engine. The Chevy bellhousing won't work with an Olds, you need a BOP bellhousing. The Chevy z-bar likely won't work with an Olds either.

If you want to use a factory-style pilot bearing, you need to have a machine shop do the work, so yes it has to come out. If you plan to use the conversion bushing and simply drill a clearance hole in the crank, this can be done in the car. It is a royal PITA. The hole needs to be about 3/4" diameter.

The buckets use mounting brackets welded to the floor pan. You can cut the ones out of the donor and weld into yours.

Obviously be wary of how much the car was butchered during the Chevy swap or what else was done to it. See if it has a solid driveshaft (original for an MT car) vs. the AT driveshaft that has two concentric tubes with a rubber insulator between them.

stan 65 cutlass

hopefully it has a muncie fourspeed,or a super t10(i believe thats right),not a weaker saginaw,

VI Cutty

Thanks for the input. Seems he was told it's an M21 but that Chev engine leaves too many question marks for me.

I think I'm going to pass on this one and see if I can settle for a few of the parts my car really needs.

joe_padavano

You really want a wide ratio trans for the street anyway. The 2.20:1 first gear in the close ratio Muncie is for road racing and will make the car a dog off the line.