Need dimensions for the 200-R4 output shaft support tool J-25013-1
March 17th, 2012, 12:32 PM
#1
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Need dimensions for the 200-R4 output shaft support tool J-25013-1
Does anyone have a 200-R4 output shaft support tool, Kent Moore number J-25013-1, that they would be willing to send me the dimensions of? I can only find this tool from SPX and they want big bucks. I am only rebuilding a 200-R4 for my son's 442, not running a business. I have machine tools to make the tool, but I need the dimensions. I have a attached a PDF, J-25013-1.PDF, that shows which dimensions I need. They are labeled "A" through "F". I have also attached a pic of the setup from the olds service manual showing the support tool for reference.
Appreciate any help.
MLK-442
Appreciate any help.
MLK-442
March 17th, 2012, 03:58 PM
#2
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I got mine on ebay, but in reality you don't need the dimensions. Use a front yoke from a driveshaft to replace the "-1" part of the tool, form a piece of plate stock to fit, and use a section of threaded rod and a couple of nuts. Of course, by the time you fabricate all that, it's easier to just buy the ebay tool.
March 17th, 2012, 07:47 PM
#3
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Thanks Joe,
But there is a small stud sticking out of the rear of the tool with a white scribed line that represents some type of measurement. In the ASTG manual and Oldsmobile service manual there is a reference to turning the adjustment screw on the bracket until the white line dissapears in the end of the J-25013-1 tool. Not sure how to accomplish this same thing with just a yoke. That's why I ask for the dimensions so I can reproduce the part.
BTW, I tried Ebay for the last month but no success. Bought many other tools but cannot find the J-25013-1 unless I pay $300+ to some Kent Moore distributor!
But there is a small stud sticking out of the rear of the tool with a white scribed line that represents some type of measurement. In the ASTG manual and Oldsmobile service manual there is a reference to turning the adjustment screw on the bracket until the white line dissapears in the end of the J-25013-1 tool. Not sure how to accomplish this same thing with just a yoke. That's why I ask for the dimensions so I can reproduce the part.
BTW, I tried Ebay for the last month but no success. Bought many other tools but cannot find the J-25013-1 unless I pay $300+ to some Kent Moore distributor!
March 18th, 2012, 06:50 PM
#4
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I got mine on ebay, but in reality you don't need the dimensions. Use a front yoke from a driveshaft to replace the "-1" part of the tool, form a piece of plate stock to fit, and use a section of threaded rod and a couple of nuts. Of course, by the time you fabricate all that, it's easier to just buy the ebay tool.
This is exactly what I use, except I used a old trans mount that the rubber had fallen out of. I'm not sure what measurement your referring to, just turn the threaded rod until the snap ring sill sit in the groove. I have seen people use a old trans yoke and zip strips to locate the output shaft in position, whatever works
March 19th, 2012, 04:23 AM
#5
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Matt your comment,
>>I'm not sure what measurement your referring to, just turn the threaded rod until the snap ring sill sit in the groove.
Below from the ASTG manual and the GM service manual (note figure 106 is the holding fixture J-25013-1):
1. Push the forward clutch shaft downward as far
>>I'm not sure what measurement your referring to, just turn the threaded rod until the snap ring sill sit in the groove.
Below from the ASTG manual and the GM service manual (note figure 106 is the holding fixture J-25013-1):
FORWARD CLUTCH SHAFT
END PLAY CHECK
END PLAY CHECK
1. Push the forward clutch shaft downward as far
as it will go.
2. Install lifting tool J-29337 onto the forward
2. Install lifting tool J-29337 onto the forward
clutch shaft as shown in Figure 107.
3. Install dial indicator onto the transmission as
shown in Figure 107.
shown in Figure 107.
4. Turn the adjusting screw on the holding fixture
until white/scribed line begins to dissapear, as
shown in Figure 106.
shown in Figure 106.
5. Zero the dial indicator.
6. Pull upward on the lifting tool J-29337, shown
in Figure 107, and read dial indicator.
7. End play should be .015" to .025"
in Figure 107, and read dial indicator.
7. End play should be .015" to .025"
.
NOTE: REAR END PLAY SHOULD HAVE
ALREADY BEEN RECORDED. NEVER LET
REAR END PLAY EXCEED FRONT END PLAY.
ALREADY BEEN RECORDED. NEVER LET
REAR END PLAY EXCEED FRONT END PLAY.
The white scribe line is setting up a distance from the end of the tail shaft to the end of the output shaft.
March 19th, 2012, 08:12 PM
#7
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Let me restate what I think the white line is for:
The white scribe line is setting up a distance from the end of the "tail shaft housing" to the end of the output shaft.
In effect setting how deep the output shaft is set into the transmission.
March 19th, 2012, 09:17 PM
#8
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All you need is a spare yoke, a stand to put it in a vertical position, and some coat hangers.
Once you line up the parking pawl, you cut up some coat hangers and use them to secure the yoke to the case.
That's all I used when I rebuilt my 200-4R.
Buy this video, it's worth it's weight in gold easily.
http://store.boxwrench.net/GM-Turbo-...DVD_p_143.html
Here's a few tips I put together to help people save cash.....
The low / reverse input drum tool I did find for just $20 so I ended up buying one.
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...i-learned.html
TransMountforRebuild640x480.jpg
Once you line up the parking pawl, you cut up some coat hangers and use them to secure the yoke to the case.
That's all I used when I rebuilt my 200-4R.
Buy this video, it's worth it's weight in gold easily.
http://store.boxwrench.net/GM-Turbo-...DVD_p_143.html
Here's a few tips I put together to help people save cash.....
The low / reverse input drum tool I did find for just $20 so I ended up buying one.
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...i-learned.html
TransMountforRebuild640x480.jpg
Last edited by Aceshigh; March 19th, 2012 at 09:20 PM.
March 20th, 2012, 08:14 PM
#10
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Posts: 2,200
I used his 2 Ton Arbor press with the bushing removal tools.
Afterwards I went to Harbor Freight and bought my own 1 ton Arbor Press for $50.
But the actual professional transmission bushing removal socket sets......those are big $$$ ~$500+
Harbor Freight sells a few kits, but matching the sizes might take you some time.
You can be creative with hole saws that are the right sizes.....obviously saw side opposite the bushing.
Last edited by Aceshigh; March 20th, 2012 at 08:19 PM.
March 21st, 2012, 11:08 AM
#11
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I got mine on ebay, but in reality you don't need the dimensions. Use a front yoke from a driveshaft to replace the "-1" part of the tool, form a piece of plate stock to fit, and use a section of threaded rod and a couple of nuts. Of course, by the time you fabricate all that, it's easier to just buy the ebay tool.
Joe,
I am an engineer and prefer doing repair per the manufacturer service manuals. Since you have the tool do you think you could find some time and a dial/digital caliper and take those seven measurements for me that I listed in the PDF file?
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