Driveline stuck in tailshaft
#1
Driveline stuck in tailshaft
I thought I would make a seperate thread on this...
So I have my trans out and the driveline will not slide out of the tail shaft.I figured when the trans was still in the car and I could not get it to slide out that I will just pull the trans with the driveline and get it out with the trans on the ground, no luck there...
Any ideas as to why? Or how to get it out without damage? Has anyone seen this? If I can not get it to slide out I was thinking of cutting the Ujoints and just buying a new yoke and Ujoints and install in the lemans trans I bought and worry about the original TH350 later
Thanks
So I have my trans out and the driveline will not slide out of the tail shaft.I figured when the trans was still in the car and I could not get it to slide out that I will just pull the trans with the driveline and get it out with the trans on the ground, no luck there...
Any ideas as to why? Or how to get it out without damage? Has anyone seen this? If I can not get it to slide out I was thinking of cutting the Ujoints and just buying a new yoke and Ujoints and install in the lemans trans I bought and worry about the original TH350 later
Thanks
#2
It ~should~ pull out easily.
Do you know if your battery ground cable was making a solid connection to the engine block?
I have heard of someone who had their neg cable attached to the frame and the starter current was pulled through the frame to the axle, through the U-joints and into the tranny. The current arced inside the tranny, effectively welding the yoke inside...
Do you know if your battery ground cable was making a solid connection to the engine block?
I have heard of someone who had their neg cable attached to the frame and the starter current was pulled through the frame to the axle, through the U-joints and into the tranny. The current arced inside the tranny, effectively welding the yoke inside...
#3
Rob, Wow That sounds wild...Not sure about the neg cable I will have to check. i know that mine is not pulling out easily. I had to do my last one and was a piece of cake. I gently tapped it with a hammer while I was on my back under the car and it still would not come out....
I will try to tap on it tonight and see. I already had to cut the Ujoint bolts off as they did not want to play nice either
I will try to tap on it tonight and see. I already had to cut the Ujoint bolts off as they did not want to play nice either
#5
Thanks Joe, How did you get it removed? Also, could this have been why the trans started slipping? Or was it a slipping feel and there was somthing else wrong? maybe the trans was working but the yolk slipping in the tailshaft?
Thanks
Thanks
#6
Ah, that would have been the BFH method...
Nope, this is unrelated to any slippage. The yoke is internally splined to the output shaft. The bushing simply keeps the yoke centered in the tailhousing.
Also, could this have been why the trans started slipping? Or was it a slipping feel and there was somthing else wrong? maybe the trans was working but the yolk slipping in the tailshaft?
#7
Well I used the BFH method joe recomended and few love taps and she came out. The yoke looks kinda OK, one spline looks a little rough but I will replace it along with the Ujoints. I could not get the rough part to show up on camera so no pics...
#8
This is an extreme case, but I had a friend that broke a driveshaft in his car. The yoke didn’t want to come out, took lots of persuading! Once he got a new driveshaft made, the yoke wouldn’t go back on. It bent the output shaft, in addition to breaking the extension housing.
#10
There was a absolutely gorgeous 55 Chevy at the dragstrip years ago (unfortunately long before cell phones and cameras) with a blown big block Chevy. It ran mid 6s eighth mile, no question the engine had some power. Who knows if the rearend broke first, or the driveshaft, or a combination of both, the trans case broke at the bellhousing and actually SPUN inside the trans tunnel. Needless to say, serious floorboard and firewall damage, not to mention a huge mess on the track. The owner said the rearend was stock, the driveshaft was a modified stock part. I’m sure the repair cost was far beyond what a good driveshaft and rearend parts would have been.
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