1967 CS with Jetaway

Old February 11th, 2019, 08:23 AM
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1967 CS with Jetaway

I am rewiring a 1967 Cutlass Supreme with the 2 speed Jetaway. The device above the motor mounted to the firewall along with the carb linkage has two wires that go to the transmission which I assume are the wires that control downshift when needed. there is a third wire there, does anyone know what that wire is for? Does the downshift actuator need power?

Thanks!
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Old February 11th, 2019, 09:30 AM
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I'm sure someone more knowledgeable will confirm, but I believe the '67 Jetaway has a switch-pitch converter, so some of those wires are for that. My '68 w/o switch pitch had one wire for the kickdown.
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Old February 11th, 2019, 10:34 AM
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That is what it does.
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Old February 12th, 2019, 09:27 AM
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I know the device controls the transmission kick-down via the two wire connector. What I am trying to find out is what is that third single wire connector for? Do I need to run power to this device?

Thanks!
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Old February 12th, 2019, 09:58 AM
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Originally Posted by babailey View Post
I know the device controls the transmission kick-down via the two wire connector. What I am trying to find out is what is that third single wire connector for? Do I need to run power to this device?

Thanks!
Well, scroll up and read post #2...

You might want to invest in a Chassis Service Manual for this car. It has the answers to every question you've posted on Classic Olds so far.
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Old February 12th, 2019, 02:03 PM
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The Jetaway (ST300) is a switch pitch transmission. It uses a variable vane torque converter, the third wire is the control feed that is only powered at idle and WOT.
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Old February 13th, 2019, 08:08 AM
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OK, I've done some more research.

I can't find anything about this in the Chassis Service Manual, so if someone knows this by another name, please let me know.

These things sound pretty interesting and I find it fascinating that it only existed in a few cars in a few years.

I found a link to a thread that oldcutlass started back in 2009 where jimjr explained the switch and how in functions and how it is wire very nicely. https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...djustment.html
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Old March 9th, 2019, 09:02 AM
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New Twist

In the process of bebuilding the wiring for the kickdown, I pulled the pass-through connector out of the trans instead of just disconnecting the external wires at the connector. That was really bad in that I was not at all prepared to catch the transmission fluid. However, it was good in that I now know the there were no internal connections on that pass-through connector. So, I will be dropping the pan today and attempting to find wires and then determine which spade they should be connected to.

if anyone knows this, please reply.

PS, Iím heading to the garage to check the service manual now.
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Old March 9th, 2019, 11:33 AM
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The wire at the top of the "T" is the converter pitch wire. The other wire is the kickdown. When you drop the pan, the kickdown solenoid is the one bolted to the valve body. The converter solenoid is on the backside of the pump and not visible. You will just see a wire coming from the front of the trans.
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Old March 12th, 2019, 06:47 AM
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The wire to the kick down solenoid in the transmission was a real mess, the insulation was brittle (I assume from heat in trans oil), bare wire was exposed in several places, and one place only had about 3 strands connected. I took the solenoid out and soldered new wire to it (I only had about 2 inches of good wire coming out of the solenoid). I have the solenoid back in place but I'm not sure it is all aligned properly and I'm doing all of this with the trans in place and my car on jack stands. Can I test this solenoid before I button everything back up? I have read that if you apply 12 volts, you should hear a click, is that it? What I am most worried about is the button that sits in the indentation in the solenoid between the solenoid spring and the valve body spring, it was really hard to keep that button in place when putting the solenoid back onto the valve body.
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Old March 12th, 2019, 07:25 AM
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Originally Posted by babailey View Post
The wire to the kick down solenoid in the transmission was a real mess, the insulation was brittle (I assume from heat in trans oil), bare wire was exposed in several places, and one place only had about 3 strands connected. I took the solenoid out and soldered new wire to it (I only had about 2 inches of good wire coming out of the solenoid). I have the solenoid back in place but I'm not sure it is all aligned properly and I'm doing all of this with the trans in place and my car on jack stands. Can I test this solenoid before I button everything back up? I have read that if you apply 12 volts, you should hear a click, is that it? What I am most worried about is the button that sits in the indentation in the solenoid between the solenoid spring and the valve body spring, it was really hard to keep that button in place when putting the solenoid back onto the valve body.
Apply power and you'll hear a click if the solenoid is working, but obviously that won't tell you if fluid is flowing properly or not. Only driving the car can test that.
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