vmathy

I am reading conflicting and confusing opinions on positioning a torque converter. I am installing a T400 behind a 455 so straight forward. When I have the converter (new Hughes converter) pushed tight to the trans I have about 3/4" between the flexplate and mounting pads. Do I push the converter all the way forward into the crank and bolt it up? Or do I only pull it forward 3/16" and then shim between the converter and flexplate? How far into the crank does the converter snout need to be? How far can I safely pull the converter out of the trans.
Thanks

oldcutlass

You should not be able to get your fingers between the torque converter and the trans if its fully seated into the pump. Move it forward towards the crank, there should be no more than 3/16 gap between the flex plate and the torque converter pads.

olds 307 and 403

I find there is quite often about 3 washers can be fit in between the lugs and flex plate with the coverter fully seated. I would go one washer at minimum if there is that much space, I didn't on a 2004R and had a major leak.

vmathy

I definitely have the converter seated all the way in the trans. My concern is pulling it out of the trans to far and disengaging the front pump? The converter moves and spins freely so I can pull it up to the flexplate.

joe_padavano

Unless you have some oddball configuration (like a Chevy to BOP trans adapter plate) there should never be spacers between the converter and the flexplate. The pilot on the front of the converter must fit all the way into the recess in the center of the crank flange. This is what maintains concentricity of the converter relative to the crank. Spacers push the converter rearward and potentially can pull the pilot out of the crank recess. With a stock bellhousing, the converter is designed to engage the pump drive tangs even with the converter fully seated against the crank flange and flexplate.

droldsmorland

A "will-fit" converter(Likely the shorter Chevy spec mount pads) will exhibit the extra/shallow space you are experiencing. An Olds converter will have larger/thicker threaded square mount blocks welded to it to allow for the proper alignment to an Olds flexplate/crank bore that Joe describes. The converter should mate nice and parallel with the flywheel once you push it towards the flex plate, thus no spacers needed. Use the correct converter flanged head fasteners ( I like ARP) WITH a dab of blue Loctite and the proper torque spec. You don't want these babies backing out. Make sure the bolts are the proper length... e.g. correct length for the Olds mounting tab depth.

olds 307 and 403

Hughes mentions on their lock up converter's have universal lugs, supposedly GM made them more universal in those years, think the dual pattern 2004R. Where as their non lock up converter's are either BOPC or you know who, that is straight from Hughes. If I remember correctly the Oregon Performance converter for the 2004R had room for 3+ washers, most have less. What Joe says makes sense as does what Hughes says about the later lock up trans and why there is more space. Can't too tight to the crank be bad as it can kill the thrust bearing with expansion?