Gawain

Greetings Everyone, Where to begin a sad story? Briefly, purchased the 54 Olds with the assurance that was well: rebuilt everything ... perhaps. At any rate, new clutches and bans were put in transmission, other items not listed on repair order for trans rebuild. Roughly 5,000 miles since rebuild. So, it slams into 3rd and 4th during acceleration; it is almost normal, downshifting. From previous threads, and reading in manuals, I gather it is possible that linkage could be mal adjusted. In the GM Olds 54 manual(12-92-94), it states as a first step in the whole process is, to adjust "Throttle Lever G" (on transmission) Further, it states "with rod assembly G moved reward against its stop..." Ok, that means that the gear selector is in reverse, causing "Throttle Lever G" to be in the full back position against its stop? Right?

Then one is check the placement of the Throttle Lever G on trans. with J 2029 so that 6 3/4 inches lies between center of attachment point for Lever G and the back edge of transmission. Of course, no J2029, so will measure.

My real confusion/question begins with next step in the process. Warm up engine, set idle at 400 rpms, turn off engine, and begin adjustments to Rod A
(Upper TV- rod). What the GM manual does not make clear is... are adjustments made with the gear selector still in drive... remember the books states to turn off engine at 400 rpm with trans in Dr. Does anyone know what one is supposed to do here? Choices seem significant. A... leave gear selector in Dr. to complete remainder of adjustments; B, move selector to N or to R, and then make adjustments?

And, in various threads ( but not in GM Manual), several have stated that Upper TV rod is critical in its adjustments. Further that to lengthen the rod will cause later and perhaps harder shift points; whereas, to shorten will cause sooner shift points with less "slam." Ok, is that accurate? If so, to shorten Upper TV-rod implies that the Lower TV rod has to be lengthened by adjustments too?

Finally, anyone who knows from experience about this and is willing to chat with me, I would really like to have that conversation. Please write to me directly with contact information. My sincere thanks , in advance, to anyone who attempts to help. Best, Gawain

theold52

Well, on my four speed hydramatic in the '52 Super 88 I played with the adjustment rods also. I used the "seat of the pants" method. Try a little this then try a little that. The manual was virtually useless for band adjustment. Adjusting by feel has it working very well. For me the best control over shift times for city driving is using the selector. I can shift to low and get low and 2, and it will stay in two. I can then go into S and it will stay in 3rd as long as I keep it there. Once I want to get on the highway I go into drive and it hits 4th. I don't know too much, no expert here, but if I don't use the selector, then it hits 3rd a bit soon. Use selector...no problem.
My dual range pontiac hydramatic is somewhat the same. For city, I just keep it in the lower drive mode (S), the D for highway if that makes any sense.

Charlie Jones

Wrong , the gear selector has nothing to do with the adjustment of the "throttle lever G " . The gear selector may be in any position .
The lever you are adjusting is the one that runs from the carb to the trans .
This lever must be held in it's rearward position . Then the linkage adjusted .

Charlie Jones

This was stolen from Motor's Auto repair manual ;















The main point is that the carb to trans linkage should be adjusted so that the lever on the trans should be back , all the way against the stop when the throttle is closed .
And then the linkage from the gas pedal to carb should be adjusted so that the throttle should be wide open when the pedal is depressed all the way .
As previously mentioned , these may only be a good starting point . And "tweaking" the adjustment a turn or two at a time , between road tests , may be the final adjustment required to "get it just right " .

rctoyguy

I’m in a similar boat. Motor and trans rebuilt, (car wasn’t drivable before) now have very hard shifts, especially downshifts. To the point that if I’m slowing down I pretty much have to just shift to neutral and wait till I’m at a stop. Does this sound like the same adjustment issue?
Disclaimer - local shop did the trans rebuild, we did the motor.. to further complicate it, we swapped the carb for a FAST efi system.

Charlie Jones

Yes , this does sound like an adjustment problem .
My suggestion would be to can that EFI system , and go back to the stock carb . The EFI throttle body probably doesn't have the same "throw" or distance between wide open and idle .

It amazes me that so many guys will spend hundreds of dollars for an EFI system . Where they may save a few miles per gallon . On a collector car that they drive less than 2,000 miles a year .

rctoyguy

I'll try to adjust the linkage and see if that helps - we actually made a plate for the EFI so that the throw would match that of the carb.
I went with EFI mostly for ease of use - no need to fiddle with carb adjustments - but if I can determine that is the problem, I wouldn't be opposed to dropping the EFI and still a 4bbl back on it.

I have been fighting this transmission problem on and off for a couple of years now I guess... I'll try to find someone that can fix it, give up, park it for a few months, then try again..

Charlie Jones

If the throttle "throw " is the same as the carb then you might try adjusting the linkage as in post #4 above . You should , likely , be successful .
It may take some " fiddling " and re-adjustment to get it " just right " .