Need Help With 1968 Muncie M20 Shifter
April 28th, 2016, 12:16 PM
#1
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Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 9
Need Help With 1968 Muncie M20 Shifter
I own a 1968 Oldsmobile 442 with it's original M20 and 4 Speed Hurst shifter.
Last night while driving, I noticed something was wrong. There was spring tension between the forward gears and reverse and now the shifter is able to pull all the way to the left without any tension. It's just as easy to go into reverse as it is into first.
This is my first manual transmission car and I have little experience with these shifters. Is this going to be an easy fix?
Last night while driving, I noticed something was wrong. There was spring tension between the forward gears and reverse and now the shifter is able to pull all the way to the left without any tension. It's just as easy to go into reverse as it is into first.
This is my first manual transmission car and I have little experience with these shifters. Is this going to be an easy fix?
April 29th, 2016, 10:55 AM
#2
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Colorado - Front Range
Posts: 2,367
Preface: I'm no Hurst shifter specialist.
Having said that, the internals of the shifter are pretty simple. It sounds like the spring-tensioner (correct term?) has broken or otherwise become compromised.
The hardest part is the time consuming chore of removing the console, so that you can then remove the rubber boot(s), then accessing the mounting bolts and subsequent removal of the shifter so that you can work on it on a bench. From underneath the vehicle (use jack stands!), you will need to disconnect the shifter rods from the bottom of the shifter. I suggest taking a picture of the configuration before you disconnect anything - helps with reassembly.
Repair/replacement parts are readily available just about everywhere that sells car parts, and all of the usual online depots.
Here is a video I found while googling for a picture:
Good luck!
Having said that, the internals of the shifter are pretty simple. It sounds like the spring-tensioner (correct term?) has broken or otherwise become compromised.
The hardest part is the time consuming chore of removing the console, so that you can then remove the rubber boot(s), then accessing the mounting bolts and subsequent removal of the shifter so that you can work on it on a bench. From underneath the vehicle (use jack stands!), you will need to disconnect the shifter rods from the bottom of the shifter. I suggest taking a picture of the configuration before you disconnect anything - helps with reassembly.
Repair/replacement parts are readily available just about everywhere that sells car parts, and all of the usual online depots.
Here is a video I found while googling for a picture:
Good luck!
April 29th, 2016, 08:48 PM
#4
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 9
Preface: I'm no Hurst shifter specialist.
Having said that, the internals of the shifter are pretty simple. It sounds like the spring-tensioner (correct term?) has broken or otherwise become compromised.
The hardest part is the time consuming chore of removing the console, so that you can then remove the rubber boot(s), then accessing the mounting bolts and subsequent removal of the shifter so that you can work on it on a bench. From underneath the vehicle (use jack stands!), you will need to disconnect the shifter rods from the bottom of the shifter. I suggest taking a picture of the configuration before you disconnect anything - helps with reassembly.
Repair/replacement parts are readily available just about everywhere that sells car parts, and all of the usual online depots.
Here is a video I found while googling for a picture: How To Take Apart a Hurst Competition Plus Shifter - YouTube
Good luck!
Having said that, the internals of the shifter are pretty simple. It sounds like the spring-tensioner (correct term?) has broken or otherwise become compromised.
The hardest part is the time consuming chore of removing the console, so that you can then remove the rubber boot(s), then accessing the mounting bolts and subsequent removal of the shifter so that you can work on it on a bench. From underneath the vehicle (use jack stands!), you will need to disconnect the shifter rods from the bottom of the shifter. I suggest taking a picture of the configuration before you disconnect anything - helps with reassembly.
Repair/replacement parts are readily available just about everywhere that sells car parts, and all of the usual online depots.
Here is a video I found while googling for a picture: How To Take Apart a Hurst Competition Plus Shifter - YouTube
Good luck!
Just have to put the center console back in.
May 1st, 2016, 01:57 PM
#7
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Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Red Oak, Texas
Posts: 2,961
That was before Hurst sold out. Nothing is free anymore. When I was stationed at NAS Willow Grove Pa, I lived on West Street Road just down from the Hurst factory. Saw lots of nice cars come in and out of the factory.
May 3rd, 2016, 06:04 AM
#8
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Colorado - Front Range
Posts: 2,367
I took out my console and disassembled the shifter from the transmission and as it turns out, nothing was broken. There was so much grease, oil and dirt in the shifter that the reverse detent was stuck open. I took the shifter completely apart, de-greased and cleaned every part it and put it back together. The components were all in great shape showing little wear despite being so dirty. It looks like a brand new shifter now and feels a lot better shifting too.
Just have to put the center console back in.
Just have to put the center console back in.
Great news!!
May 4th, 2016, 10:21 PM
#12
Connoisseur d'Junque
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: The Hudson Valley
Posts: 21,183
Like I said, I don't know when it ended, but I was too ignorant to take advantage at the time anyway - when I missed a shift and shifted into 2nd and 4th simultaneously, I used the sledgehammer I carried for the purpose to hammer the transmission levers back toward neutral - I recall having to do it once in a tollbooth in the rain.
- Eric
- Eric
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