Anyone have th350 firmer shift suggestions?
#1
Anyone have th350 firmer shift suggestions?
I don't really know much about transmissions, with that being said, what can I do to get a firmer shift, I'm not looking to rebuild it or put in a shift kit, that isn't in the budget this year, I've seen a few articles on taking out the actuator spring, I just confused when I seen an article saying to install a nut and washer to limit travel? Anyway, does anyone know what's involved in removing 1-2 actuator spring? Tips? I remember when I was young I watched my uncle remove #38 in this diagram. I'm not sure if it had any I'll effects long term, but I remember it sure had firm shifts. Anyone know the difference between removing #38 or removing the 1-2 actuator?
#2
If you're going through that much trouble of dropping the pan and removing the valve body...a Trans Go shift kit is $43...crazy easy instructions. Do it once. Do it right.
http://speedtalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=7451
http://speedtalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=7451
#4
I would not remove the 1-2 accumulator spring. Just get a shift kit. Do it right. Im running a b&m shift kit on race mode. Has drive but full manual control. With a 3000 stall it still hits hard. But when i built the trans i also cut the pistons to hold 5 clutches and steels.
For 25 bucks. this kit should fix ya up.this kit fixes the issues the gm th350 had from the factory it firms up the shifts etc etc. Its not the full 1-2 kit where you actually can set shift points and get a harder shift.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/GM-TH350-TH-...VYI3q8&vxp=mtr
For 25 bucks. this kit should fix ya up.this kit fixes the issues the gm th350 had from the factory it firms up the shifts etc etc. Its not the full 1-2 kit where you actually can set shift points and get a harder shift.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/GM-TH350-TH-...VYI3q8&vxp=mtr
Last edited by coppercutlass; March 4th, 2017 at 08:27 AM.
#5
If you're going through that much trouble of dropping the pan and removing the valve body...a Trans Go shift kit is $43...crazy easy instructions. Do it once. Do it right.
http://speedtalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=7451
http://speedtalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=7451
#6
The reason I asked about firmer shifts without doing a kit was because I actually stopped at 2 tranny shops in town looking to buy a kit, both places told me they wouldn't recommend a shift kit in a 46 year old tranny for the fact of raising internal pressures and blowing seals and orings apart. My plan was to have the trans rebuilt next winter, I think I'll just dk fluid and filter and drive for the summer
#8
Sounds like they where trying to sell you a rebuild . It was common practice when these cars became old beaters to put a shift kit in it to help put with the issues you mentioned until it just quit. Those seals and prongs won't just blow out. I have torn transmissions that have never been torn apart and the only way I tore seals was when I ripped them. Specially the piston seals on the clutch packs. Also trick shift is total bs. I buy type F fluid from the local farm and fleet in 5 gallon buckets and ot works well. Nothing really special yo trans fluid besides friction modifiers which make it slip and detergents. Type F has no modifiers which is why racers choose it. In lame terms it's just hydraulic fluid.
#9
You can DIY rebuild it cheap and do not necessarily need a shift kit. I didn't use a shift kit and I can chirp gears with the mods in the article below.
http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...0_rebuild_tech
Otherwise just do a shift kit.
http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...0_rebuild_tech
Otherwise just do a shift kit.
Last edited by VinMichael; March 5th, 2017 at 09:37 PM.
#10
Thats a great link but the mods they tell you to do are pretty much the home made shift kit then they mention the shift kit . With a shift kit many of these mods cant be done. mainly the fluid passage mods. neither one is wrong to do the shift kit has just been engineered to do so with less work so to speak.
#11
Thats a great link but the mods they tell you to do are pretty much the home made shift kit then they mention the shift kit . With a shift kit many of these mods cant be done. mainly the fluid passage mods. neither one is wrong to do the shift kit has just been engineered to do so with less work so to speak.
Both options do the same thing - duel feed the direct drum.
#12
You can DIY rebuild it cheap and do not necessarily need a shift kit. I didn't use a shift kit and I can chirp gears with the mods in the article below.
http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...0_rebuild_tech
Otherwise just do a shift kit.
http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...0_rebuild_tech
Otherwise just do a shift kit.
The best bang for the buck shift kit is probably the original B&M shift kit. You can find them in swap meets, eBay, etc for next to nothing, probably not much more than just the valve body and pan gasket would cost. The advantage of the shift kit is the ability to "dual feed" the direct clutch without transmission removal and disassembly. The TransGo kit is a little more refined, they have you keep the accumulators functional, and are a little more conservative with drill hole sizes. If you are running a higher stall speed converter, you can probably get away with drilling the holes to 3/16th. The looser converter will tame the aggressive shift. With a stock converter, it will probably knock the dash out of the car. The TransGo kit also include a pressure regulator spring, and a few other extras, that you would have to pay extra for with a B&M Transpac.
#13
The reason I asked about firmer shifts without doing a kit was because I actually stopped at 2 tranny shops in town looking to buy a kit, both places told me they wouldn't recommend a shift kit in a 46 year old tranny for the fact of raising internal pressures and blowing seals and orings apart. My plan was to have the trans rebuilt next winter, I think I'll just dk fluid and filter and drive for the summer
#14
Sounds like they where trying to sell you a rebuild . It was common practice when these cars became old beaters to put a shift kit in it to help put with the issues you mentioned until it just quit. Those seals and prongs won't just blow out. I have torn transmissions that have never been torn apart and the only way I tore seals was when I ripped them. Specially the piston seals on the clutch packs. Also trick shift is total bs. I buy type F fluid from the local farm and fleet in 5 gallon buckets and ot works well. Nothing really special yo trans fluid besides friction modifiers which make it slip and detergents. Type F has no modifiers which is why racers choose it. In lame terms it's just hydraulic fluid.
#15
Follow these instructions for a low buck firm shift. You. An take these directions on step further by removing the 2-3 piston from the valve body, discard the spring get, use a 3/8 deep cup plug to block off the oil flow to the bottom of the piston, and then reinstall the piston without the spring. If your valve body has a plastic piston, and I hasn't broken yet, buy a lottery ticket. If it hasn't broke from service, it will almost certainly break trying to compress it to remove the Eclip. Reinstall the valve body, using only the check ball closest to the park linkage in the rear of the case.
The best bang for the buck shift kit is probably the original B&M shift kit. You can find them in swap meets, eBay, etc for next to nothing, probably not much more than just the valve body and pan gasket would cost. The advantage of the shift kit is the ability to "dual feed" the direct clutch without transmission removal and disassembly. The TransGo kit is a little more refined, they have you keep the accumulators functional, and are a little more conservative with drill hole sizes. If you are running a higher stall speed converter, you can probably get away with drilling the holes to 3/16th. The looser converter will tame the aggressive shift. With a stock converter, it will probably knock the dash out of the car. The TransGo kit also include a pressure regulator spring, and a few other extras, that you would have to pay extra for with a B&M Transpac.
The best bang for the buck shift kit is probably the original B&M shift kit. You can find them in swap meets, eBay, etc for next to nothing, probably not much more than just the valve body and pan gasket would cost. The advantage of the shift kit is the ability to "dual feed" the direct clutch without transmission removal and disassembly. The TransGo kit is a little more refined, they have you keep the accumulators functional, and are a little more conservative with drill hole sizes. If you are running a higher stall speed converter, you can probably get away with drilling the holes to 3/16th. The looser converter will tame the aggressive shift. With a stock converter, it will probably knock the dash out of the car. The TransGo kit also include a pressure regulator spring, and a few other extras, that you would have to pay extra for with a B&M Transpac.
I chose to run all the check ***** but the rule of thumb is all can be removed besides the one closest to the modulator.
#17
you probably won't notice a difference with type F. You need a shift kit.
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