big man

Trying to figure out how to get the lock up to work. I've got the tci kit and I can do the wiring in the trans. Where I'm getting lost at is the wiring outside of the trans? Where do I run the wires after I've got the trans buttoned up? I've got a brake switch. Its a 71 Cutlass. What other parts do I need? Do I need a relay or do you slice into the brake switch.. I don't know.
I see people online replacing the solenoid but I never see how they actually set it up.

svnt442

Try this.

https://www.bowlertransmissions.com/...ontrol-module/

Gpc1

I have the TCI kit also, you should have a vacuum switch which is wired to inside the transmission and also to a power source. I ran a wire to the fuse box.
the kit should have instructions to explain all this. TV cable is critical make sure it is set up right.

big man

So you just ran one wire to the fuse box or power source after you've done the trans wiring? Is that it? So how does it deactivate then? I'll go over the instructions more but I just wanted to get a general idea so I can take this pan off one last time and be done

Gpc1

The vacuum switch is also connected to a vacuum source usually at the intake manifold. The vacuum goes to zero when you step on the gas which disengages the lock up when you’re cruising the vacuum goes up activating the lock up switch.
At least that’s how I understand it. Make sure wire to the fuse box is only live with ignition on and has an in-line fuse.

big man

Cool I'll give it a shot. First time for everything, thanks

Gpc1

This was my first one too .hopefully others with tci will respond also
keep us posted

big man

Got everything hooked up and took it for a drive. I could feel the converter lock up but when I try and throttle it it would bounce in and out of gear. Didn't have time to fool with it anymore but at least I'm getting somewhere with it.. I'll have to check it out more tomorrow. Not sure what it could be?

Gpc1

Where is the vacuum line connected?

JohnnyBs68S

1st question: Does the trans have a built-in 4th gear switch wired in series with the lock-up solenoid? If not, there is nothing preventing the TC from locking up in ANY gear assuming +12V power is supplied to the external connector of the trans. Mine came w/ this 4th gear switch built-in, I assume most 200-4R have it, but I'm not 100% sure on that.

2nd: How do you want the TC lockup to behave? Mine's wired through relay contacts to +12V, and the relay is powered from the brake light circuit, so when I step on the brakes, the relay contacts open and unlocks the TC. Also, unless the trans is in 4th gear, the TC cannot lockup. So for my car, the TC locks up only when:
A): Trans is in 4th gear, AND
B): Brakes are not applied.

This is achieved by having two switches (brake-actuated relay contacts and the 4th gear switch) in series between the lock-up solenoid and a +12V source. The only drawback to this system is that the TC ALWAYS locks-up when it shifts to 4th. If you want to prevent that for drag racing, adding a manual switch in series allows you do disable lock-up in 4th.

If you want to tie into the engine's manifold vacuum so that it unlocks when you press on the gas (but not hard enough to cause it to kick down from 4th gear), add a vacuum switch in series with the other two switches (brake-actuated relay contacts and the 4th gear switch). Then the TC will lock-up only when:
A) Trans is in 4th gear, AND
B) Brakes are not applied, AND
C) Engine vacuum is high / light load on the engine

I can't imagine a more complicated logic diagram being needed to control this simple function of the TC lockup that would justify the need for anything more complicated than multiple switches wired in series (an AND logic function) with the lock-up solenoid.

big man

The kit I got was from tci with the pressure switch that has 2 terminals for wires. I replaced an original switch on my valve body that had one terminal for hooking up the wires. But I did have another switch on the valve body that looked identical to the tci pressure switch but the screw in was different. It looked like it had a tube of some sort heading back into the base of the valve body. I left that unplugged and just hooked my wires up to the tci switch.
Maybe I'm not wired correctly? I have a wire running from the fuse box straight to the red wire on the transmission case. The tci vacuum switch is ported off the back of the sniper efi, the vacuum switch is then grounded to the transmission. I'd like to know where I'm going wrong. Maybe it's all screwed up lol wouldn't be the first time..
Anyone have pics. Maybe something I can reference from? I know I'm making it complicated for sure..

JohnnyBs68S

Here's the instructions for the TCI kit. Looks like they don't use a brake relay, and the 4th gear clutch switch and engine vacuum switch are on the ground return side of the solenoid instead of in series with the +12V supply line.

https://static.summitracing.com/glob...tci-376600.pdf

big man

Thanks for the link. I will end up calling tci today and see where it goes. If that doesn't help then I'll take some pics of my setup and see if we could brainstorm from there.

Gpc1

Sounds like you are on the right track if it works. The vacuum switch adjustment should stop it from going in and out of OD.
A call to TCI couldn’t hurt to help you understand. Did you replace the 4th gear pressure switch that came with the kit?

big man

Yes I replaced it and I'll definitely give them a call. If that doesn't help then I'll take pics and see if I got the wiring or setup correct. Thanks

Gpc1

Keep us posted. I also have a 65 cutlass with a 2004r. Haven’t driven it yet except around the block but shifted fine so far
soon as registration comes I can road test. After you get tranny working right, it’s not over yet wait until you get figure out the parking brake!
That comes next.......to be continued

bccan

I have to admit that I just skimmed this thread but basic “control points” for a smooth operating lock up are-

1) A master on/off switch (fuse on power feed)
2) Valve body switch (normally open or closed as appropriate) + External OD pressure switch
3) Cruise control brake switch
3) Vacuum switch (PORTED VAC, experiment with setting, likely 8-10”)
4) IMO the Bowler Delay box combined w/ above makes set up work as close to a factory style calibration as you can get.
Note - IIRC you need a 700-4R case connector for the Bowler box but it’s been a long time. Also if one could come up with their own time delay I personally would set it for appx 4 seconds instead of Bowler’s 8 but it’s nit picking.

JohnnyBs68S

Just noticed this (you are likely bouncing in and out of TC lock). I suspect what is happening is that just when the vacuum gets high enough to close the switch and lock the TC, the load on engine goes up and the vacuum goes down just enough to open the switch and unlock the TC. In control systems terminology, there is not enough hysteresis in the "bang-bang" control loop and the result is "motor-boating". Does the vacuum switch have an adjustment for its hysteresis (difference in the on/off trip points vs. vacuum pressure)?

Gpc1

The vacuum switch comes factory preset at 8-10 inches hg. But can be adjusted by the small screw hidden by small amount of lead, use 1/8 drill by hand to remove some lead. Using Allen wrench turn cw to raise vacuum required to close switch or ccw to lower it. Only very small movement needed very sensitive. Seal with silicone. With the vacuum switch you don’t really need the brake switch cut out or a manual switch both are optional as the TCI instructions indicate. I think we’re just trying to get the basics working right now

big man

That's absolutely correct and that's what was happening with my converter. I adjusted the vacuum switch and it took a few more adjustments and it seems to be really close to where I need it to be. So I'd have to say the kit works well. I didn't need a brake switch, which is good. Wired 12v, grounded the vacuum switch to the case, hooked up switch to ported vacuum and boom. I'm really close to where I need to be and I feel a lot better about this setup.
Thanks for all the help. Each and everyone of you. I wouldn't even have attempted it if it weren't for this site

Gpc1

Glad to hear you’re getting it dialed in. Best regards

big man

Thanks bud