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Hey folks,
I'm really tired of the shift points on this trans. I've got the pressures and the tv cable setup just right but I'm into 3rd gear before I'm hardly rolling. I found a couple websites detailing a mod to the governor to help with that but while I'm in there I want to make my speedometer correct. Anyone know where I can find the correct gear (or gear combination) for the 200-4r? And if you would happen to know the exact gear(s) that would be very helpful. I've looked into it but wasn't successful.
200-4r
3.73 rear gears
275 60R15 tires that look to be 27 inches tall on the ground
And for those that don't already know; the governor is inside the pan and has the gears as part of the assembly, which is why it just makes sense to do both at the same time.
Thanks
Looks like the closest you can get is w/ a 10-tooth drive gear (green) and a 27 tooth driven gear (black). Using a 11-tooth drive gear (orange) puts you right between a 29 (green) and 30 (blue) tooth driven gear.
Last edited by JohnnyBs68S; June 24th, 2019 at 09:29 AM.
Im sorry I dont know the answer, but the 275 60R 15's are 28 inches tall.
That will make a difference i think.
Steve
That's what I thought too so I went out and measured, using a square on the top of the tire, and it came to 27" with 30 lbs of air. I'll go with 28" in my calculations. Thanks.
Looks like the closest you can get is w/ a 10-tooth drive gear (green) and a 27 tooth driven gear (black). Using a 11-tooth drive gear (orange) puts you right between a 29 (green) and 30 (blue) tooth driven gear.
Lol, exactly why I want to just talk to someone on the phone and give them my credit card number. I'm lost already. Although I do think I have a green driven gear for some reason. Who knows if it's still good. Thanks for the info and the links
Originally Posted by matt69olds
CK performance probably has the speedo gears you need, and can help you with a govonor to get your shift points where you want them.
As in an already modded governor? It might be kind of nice not having to do it myself. I'll give them a call.
CK performance does sell governors with the modifications already done for the higher shift points. I don’t know how many options he has for governors. Check out the Turbo Buick forums, I’m sure there are other people building governors
Sorry, but this is more painful than you think.
Speedo gears: There's several vendors that sell gears. I've used transmissioncenter.net for misc parts. For the tire, find the tire manufacturer's spec sheet. It'll tell you the effective rolling height of the tire. The measurement while the tire is sitting there isn't the same as how the tire actually rolls down the road. But we're talking about a minor difference anyway.
See what drive gear you have by looking through the hole. Just changing the driven gear will likely get you pretty close.
Govenor: The govenor is part of a system. You can't just buy a "modified" gov from someone. Well, you can, but it probably won't do what you want. The gov setup depends on all of the bits inside the valve body.
Also, note that the govenor primarily controlls WOT shift points! It only has a minor role in shifting during typical driving.
CK sells a 200-4r reference manual that has a good section on govenors. To raise the shift points you want to reduce the weight of the, uh, weights. So you can take yours apart, cut a little off the weights, put it back together and test. Rinse, repeat. Painful and slow, but you'd need the original builder of the trans to know what's in the valve body and therefore what weights to aim for. The CK book tells you roughly how modifying each weight modifies the shift points. My shift points were waaaay too high (>6k rpm), so I sent the gov to the builder to put different weights on.
You may be better served by getting the Transgo reprogramming kit.
I agree you have to know the original valve body code and or the transmission code tag. Though as mentioned, you might just work with a known builder and get a matching VB and governor for your needs. I have three original 200r4s and two were from grand national and one from Monte Carlo SS. Trouble is this is an older transmission and few builders remain with certain parts hard to find. I know CK gets $500 for the GN valve body and governors. Lonnie at extreme Automatics is a little less, but he is recalibrating others
Good info, thanks fellas. I spent some time on the phone with Bowtie Overdrives today and I have some tv cable geometry to work out with the new carb. It's damn close but could be closer. I'll check the valve visibly when I get inside the pan. I went ahead and bought there GN-like governor and here's why; The drive gear I need is $50 but for $75 I can get the governor and drive gear to correct my speedometer. so I figured, why not. I also bought a trans pan drain plug kit cuz dropping that pan without one id a PIA. This 200-4r is a level 2 build from a local-ish seller and has run very well for two years, besides the early shifting. It has a shift kit in it But the paperwork is buried. I'll dig it out tomorrow. The one thing I don't know is, once I'm looking at the valve I can verify that it's fully embedded at WOT, but there is supposed to be a spec that lists how far out it is supposed to come when going back to idle. Can I get in the bore with a bent paperclip or something and compare those measurements to the valve to see where everything lines up exactly at idle?
I do have a pressure gauge hooked up that I just leave strapped under the hood and pull it out when I need to check things.
Oh, and why do the driven gears I see for sale have a long , plastic shaft? Mine is a short gear with a D-shaped opening that slides over a steel D-shaped steel shaft that then slides through the bullet/housing. Are these newer and cheaper? Luckily my driven gear is fine. It's a black, 27 tooth gear so I ordered the green, 10 tooth gear which is supposed to work with my tires and rear gears.
The TV valve has an actuating nubbin that sticks out the front of the valve body. Super easy to see what's going on when the pan is off. At WOT the lever attached to the cable should be touching the valve body (fully pushing in the nubbin).
Extreme Automatic's website has some good tech docs on the 200-4r including TV measurements.
I've never seen a multi-part speedo gear like you're talking about, so dunno.
Good info, thanks fellas. I spent some time on the phone with Bowtie Overdrives today and I have some tv cable geometry to work out with the new carb. It's damn close but could be closer. I'll check the valve visibly when I get inside the pan. I went ahead and bought there GN-like governor and here's why; The drive gear I need is $50 but for $75 I can get the governor and drive gear to correct my speedometer. so I figured, why not. I also bought a trans pan drain plug kit cuz dropping that pan without one id a PIA. This 200-4r is a level 2 build from a local-ish seller and has run very well for two years, besides the early shifting. It has a shift kit in it But the paperwork is buried. I'll dig it out tomorrow. The one thing I don't know is, once I'm looking at the valve I can verify that it's fully embedded at WOT, but there is supposed to be a spec that lists how far out it is supposed to come when going back to idle. Can I get in the bore with a bent paperclip or something and compare those measurements to the valve to see where everything lines up exactly at idle?
I do have a pressure gauge hooked up that I just leave strapped under the hood and pull it out when I need to check things.
FYI GN governors are setup for 3:42 gearing not 3:73. Look for governors from a 83/84 HO OZ, 83-88 Monte SS CZ, or olds 442 KZ all these cars had 3:73 rear gearing
Last edited by Hoffa65; December 17th, 2022 at 09:40 PM.
The TV valve has an actuating nubbin that sticks out the front of the valve body. Super easy to see what's going on when the pan is off. At WOT the lever attached to the cable should be touching the valve body (fully pushing in the nubbin).
Extreme Automatic's website has some good tech docs on the 200-4r including TV measurements.
I've never seen a multi-part speedo gear like you're talking about, so dunno.
Yes sir. I've read the TV-Made-EZ article like five times all the way through, lol. The problem isn't getting the nubbin pushed all the way in; it's syncing that to WOT and STILL having the correct tension on the cable at idle. From my calculations, the center hole of the Street Demon linkage (instructions say to use the left hole, which is worse) is 1/16 inch too far from the linkage pivot point. Couldn't it be like half an inch or something so I could drill a new hole?! Essentially I'm getting too much travel on the cable from idle to WOT. Bowtie Overdrives is trying to put together a corrector plate kit for the street demon but they were a bit off base on their design so I've been working with them on that this morning. Still, $215 seems like a lot for 1/16 of an inch. Maybe I could enlarge the linkage pin hole, slide the pin the cable hooks to a wee bit closer to the pivot point, and shim underneath the pin (in the hole) to keep it from moving.
This is a rubbing of the actual linkage. The pivot point is on the left. Why have three options if they are all essentially the same distance from the pivot?
Originally Posted by olds403
Put a pressure gauge on it. That way you really know the pressures by pulling on the TV cable and actuating with the carb.
I have a gauge semi-permanently installed under the hood. I can drag it out and tape it to the windshield when needed. When I bought the trans from the builder, I didn't know much about this stuff. When I asked him what pressures I should be running he just told me to pull the tv cable so it was nice and tight, about 3/16" after resistance, hook it up and not worry about it. I thought, okay, that seems easy enough. Sigh....
At 750 RPM (in gear), 950 in park, I'm getting the following readings:
P=57, R=90, 4th=57, 3rd=57, 2nd=150, 1st=140
These numbers are low because this is with the cable bottomed out at the carb WOT. I can easily raise those pressures but I'll lose WOT.
Last edited by Macadoo; June 26th, 2019 at 11:46 AM.
Yes sir. I've read the TV-Made-EZ article like five times all the way through, lol. The problem isn't getting the nubbin pushed all the way in; it's syncing that to WOT and STILL having the correct tension on the cable at idle. From my calculations, the center hole of the Street Demon linkage (instructions say to use the left hole, which is worse) is 1/16 inch too far from the linkage pivot point. Couldn't it be like half an inch or something so I could drill a new hole?! Essentially I'm getting too much travel on the cable from idle to WOT. Bowtie Overdrives is trying to put together a corrector plate kit for the street demon but they were a bit off base on their design so I've been working with them on that this morning. Still, $215 seems like a lot for 1/16 of an inch. Maybe I could enlarge the linkage pin hole, slide the pin the cable hooks to a wee bit closer to the pivot point, and shim underneath the pin (in the hole) to keep it from moving.
This is a rubbing of the actual linkage. The pivot point is on the left. Why have three options if they are all essentially the same distance from the pivot?
I have used this with good results. compensates for small errors in setup.
Thanks Hoffa. A couple years ago I went to the hardware store and grabbed something in the toilet area called "seat springs". They're a very short, rigid spring with an appropriate diameter. And I've been using one since. It allows me to get to WOT while still having the tv cable the needed tension. I just get tired of people looking at it and saying "what's that?!" These wires, that I bolted to a valve cover screw, show the before and after sweep of the middle hole on the street demon. The idle position is on the right, with WOT on the left. The sweep is pretty centered to the pivot point. It does end a little higher at WOT. But the hole is 1/16 inch too far from the pivot, if my calculations are correct. This is the pressure gauge. It's a good look, yeah? Maybe I'll leave it on there until the next car show I spent almost an hour adjusting and test driving and have the pressured much better. The spring that Hoffa mentioned is mandatory with this linkage.
Another question: if my 1st gear pressure reads 195 with the selector in 1st, why does it not read the same with the selector in 4th (D) and sitting at a stop sign?
Thanks Hoffa. A couple years ago I went to the hardware store and grabbed something in the toilet area called "seat springs". They're a very short, rigid spring with an appropriate diameter. And I've been using one since. It allows me to get to WOT while still having the tv cable the needed tension. I just get tired of people looking at it and saying "what's that?!" These wires, that I bolted to a valve cover screw, show the before and after sweep of the middle hole on the street demon. The idle position is on the right, with WOT on the left. The sweep is pretty centered to the pivot point. It does end a little higher at WOT. But the hole is 1/16 inch too far from the pivot, if my calculations are correct. This is the pressure gauge. It's a good look, yeah? Maybe I'll leave it on there until the next car show I spent almost an hour adjusting and test driving and have the pressured much better. The spring that Hoffa mentioned is mandatory with this linkage.
Another question: if my 1st gear pressure reads 195 with the selector in 1st, why does it not read the same with the selector in 4th (D) and sitting at a stop sign?
When in 1st is selected the VB overrides the TV system and applies full pressure to the gear.
When 4th or 3rd are selected the system uses the TV circuit to regulate the band pressure, this is how they made the trans more efficient by reducing the working pressures when lower pressures are required.
Seriously, check the articles on Extreme's site. They have a good testing procedure and some good reference tables. All of those pressures seem low to me, but the problem is it's heavily dependent on how the VB is set up.
That is the correct hole on the Street Demon. I use it on my 200-4r also.
The most useful test requires two people. Put the car in drive and hold at fast idle (~1000 rpm). Watch the line pressure. The line pressure should start rising immediately when you barely pull or bump the TV cable.
Also, make sure you really do have the WOT position set. One time I messed up and the tension going from one spring to another in the VB made me think it was bottomed out. It wasn't. Have someone else hold the throttle WOT and you just focus on setting the TV retainer.
Thanks guys. I agree, the pressures look low but from my reading, yes, it depends on the VB setup. The trans is supposed to have a shift kit in it but who really knows.
Oddball, when I have the pan off I'll be able to visually verify the position of the throttle valve in relation to WOT. Bowtie overdives told me that, in the idle position, there should be six rings exposed on the valve but that might depend on the springs.
So, when I have the pan off, is there a way I can see if there is a shift kit installed? Where is the boost valve located? In the valve body? Will it be marked with a 0.500 or whatever? Would I need to pull the valve body to get to the shift kit parts, if there in there?
Lastly, a shout-out to Bowtie Overdrives. They spend a lot of time with me on the phone yesterday, even though I told them I didn't purchase the trans from them. I just wanted the GN-like governor and appropriate drive gear. They had put my order on hold until they understood what I was trying to do and tried to help me with the tv set up. The gal even gave me her personal cell number so we could text pics back and forth. Good thing too; they were a little off-base with a Street Demon throttle linkage corrector kit they are trying to put together.
Okay guys, I found the sweet spot. I had been running Park pressure of 75 with the Quadrajet but now, with this Street Demon, I'm running 90 in park and the shifts are spread out nicely at light throttle and are nice and firm. Downshifts feel good too. I went through most of the test procedures but that can be hard with neighbors and farm equipment on the road. I do have to use the cheater spring still but it's working nicely. I'm curious to see what the grand national - like governor does, if anything.
I hope I didn't rob the trans of too much life running the lower pressure. But to be clear, I never actually drove the car with the park pressure at 57......thank goodness!
Oddball, when I have the pan off I'll be able to visually verify the position of the throttle valve in relation to WOT. Bowtie overdives told me that, in the idle position, there should be six rings exposed on the valve but that might depend on the springs.
So, when I have the pan off, is there a way I can see if there is a shift kit installed? Where is the boost valve located? In the valve body? Will it be marked with a 0.500 or whatever? Would I need to pull the valve body to get to the shift kit parts, if there in there?
No, you can't tell if there's a shift kit installed. They swap out the springs in the VB, so have to take the VB apart. Even then, the colors don't mean anything on their own because different manufacturers use different colors.
No, you can't tell if there's a shift kit installed. They swap out the springs in the VB, so have to take the VB apart. Even then, the colors don't mean anything on their own because different manufacturers use different colors.
Excellent, thank you. Just the information I needed.
The boost valve is located inside the pump. Gotta remove the trans and remove the pump to get at it, and R&Ring a pump isn't exactly a cake walk.
So, with the sweet spot that I've found, the shifts are quick and tight, but not a bang, nothing like the old TH350 that was in there, so I'm sure it has a shift kit. Which one? It's anyone's guess, and I can't find the paperwork. But the no-tv pressure seems pretty low for having a kit. Do they usually come with a larger boost valve?
In any case, it's running very well right now. After I replace the governor and drive gear, filter, install a drain plug, and verify the tv plunger action, I'll be sure to get it back together.....oh, wait.....I don't have to mess with the linkage to replace the governor. Sweet!
Just saw this. I have found most 2004R's have the black 27 tooth gear. It is the big weight that affects part throttle shifts, thinking the GN has smaller weights on both. How is the Street Demon working?
The boost valve can be swapped with the trans in the car. No need to remove the pump. Drop the pan, the pressure regulator assembly is retained by a snap ring. When your ready to reassemble things, pack some Vaseline in the regulator bore. Don’t use wheel bearing grease, either trans assembly line or vasoline. It will help hold things in place while pushing the boost valve bushing up to expose the snap ring groove.
Mac:
I printed this diagram and adjusted the printer scale until it was full size. I then overlaid this diagram onto the throttle linkage to confirm the starting & stopping points and the arc of the TV swing. In doing so, I also discovered the stock throttle cable was limiting WOT on the the FiTech throttle body. I had to cut off about a 1/4" of the metal collar to allow a full pull and reach WOT on the FiTech. I was also surprised to discover the FiTech throttle linkage had a mounting hole with the correct geometry for the TV cable.
Rodney
Last edited by cdrod; June 30th, 2019 at 07:17 PM.
Just saw this. I have found most 2004R's have the black 27 tooth gear. It is the big weight that affects part throttle shifts, thinking the GN has smaller weights on both. How is the Street Demon working?
Black, yes. But mine isn't the long plastic one. It's short with a steel D-shaped pin for the long axle. I've seem some pics online. It's seems stouter to me but what do I know, lol.
The Street Demon is GREAT! I love this thing. So easy to tune compared to the Quadrajet. It's a little lean though. I've been trying to tune out some detonation through timing but now I'm a little un-advanced and it's still pinging at part throttle and WOT. Temps are a steady 180* on 90+ degree days. Right now I'm running 18* initial, 16 mechanical, for 34* total with no vac. 7* in the vac can (I have an adjustable). So all in, it's around 41* @ 3000+ rpm. I feel like I'm leaving a little power on the table. I'm going to temporarily ditch the pcv system and run two breathers to see what richening up the circuit does. After that I'll drop in smaller main metering rods (that also have a smaller power tip for WOT) and see if that helps. Or maybe I should try that first. I dunno', lol.
Originally Posted by matt69olds
The boost valve can be swapped with the trans in the car. No need to remove the pump. Drop the pan, the pressure regulator assembly is retained by a snap ring. When your ready to reassemble things, pack some Vaseline in the regulator bore. Don’t use wheel bearing grease, either trans assembly line or vasoline. It will help hold things in place while pushing the boost valve bushing up to expose the snap ring groove.
Oh sweet! What size boost valve do you think? 0.500 too much? Do I risk stressing seals or anything with that much pressure? I am NOT a trans guy.
Originally Posted by cdrod
Mac:
I printed this diagram and adjusted the printer scale until it was full size. I then overlaid this diagram onto the throttle linkage to confirm the starting & stopping points and the arc of the TV swing. In doing so, I also discovered the stock throttle cable was limiting WOT on the the FiTech throttle body. I had to cut off about a 1/4" of the metal collar to allow a full pull and reach WOT on the FiTech. I was also surprised to discover the FiTech throttle linkage had a mounting hole with the correct geometry for the TV cable.
Rodney
Thanks Rod. Yeah, that is interesting. Good on FiTECH for getting that right. When I talked with Bowtie and told them the Street Demon had a hole for the 200-4r she just laughed and said "I hear that a lot". They got it close but not perfect. And these things need to be perfect.
The boost valve can be swapped with the trans in the car. No need to remove the pump. Drop the pan, the pressure regulator assembly is retained by a snap ring. When your ready to reassemble things, pack some Vaseline in the regulator bore. Don’t use wheel bearing grease, either trans assembly line or vasoline. It will help hold things in place while pushing the boost valve bushing up to expose the snap ring groove.
If the OP goes this route learn from my mistake. I rebuilt my 200 4r last year. First time ever rebuilding a transmission. There was a circular recess right at the very top of the bore where the regulator assembly fits into that the snap ring fit perfectly in, and that's how I installed it. The first start up it blew the regulator right out of the oil pump. The correct recess for the snap ring is about a half inch deeper inside the bore. Simple in hindsight to fix..........if I'd just pulled the pan first, but no, I panicked and pulled the whole transmission thinking I had to pull it all apart again. Then made things worse by rolling it over and THEN pulled the pan and found the seven pieces of the regulator now scattered all around after being turned upside down. I was very very lucky none of them dropped inside the case.
I was using the CK manual as my guide and all it had said when reassembling was "reinstall retaining ring" so that's my story and I'm sticking to it lol
Wow, that sucks, dude. Sorry to hear that. But glad it wasn't worse.
When I first got the trans, I took it to the local garage so they could help me install it (I was tired of doing everything by myself). We got it in and the owner and I argued about how to set the cable. He wanted it loose and was insisting. I told him the instructions (from the builder) were to pull the cable until resistance is felt, and then another 3/16". I finally had to tell him I wouldn't pay if he didn't let me follow the instructions, so I got my way. We took it out on the road and it wouldn't shift out of first. Pulled it tighter, looser, nothing. It wouldn't shift. Had to have it towed home (more $$), bought a gauge and it was only reading 10 psi at idle. Had to drive the trans back to Rockford (2 hours each way), swap it for another, and install it myself. I was pretty PO'd so they upgraded me to a level 2 build. Or so they said. Seems like a level 2 would be pushing more than 60 lbs at idle. Turned out the pump in the first trans was bad. That wasn't a good week.
Thanks for the info. It looks like there are two boost valves; one for low and reverse and one for drive and overdrive. Do I need both and are both accessible? I think I have some reading to do.
The performance GM overdrive transmissions got a.472 valve from the factory, the .500 valve is plenty for all but max performance builds. There is a.550 valve available, I have yet to use one.
I have ave had a pressure regulator valve blow out, it was one of the the first few shift kits I installed in a 700 trans. Just push the valve all the way up in the bore with a screwdriver, and then let it pop back down against the snap ring. Do this a few times, if it doesn’t come out doing that, you can be relatively sure the snap ring is seated.
I received the GN governor from Bowtie Overdrives but I wimped out. I have the shift points pretty close to what I want and the weights on this GN were wayy lighter. I'd also read a couple posts from guys that installed them and couldn't get the trans to shift out of first. Bowtie said my big block and 3.73 gears were a good match I guess I freaked when I saw the difference.
My original governor on the left, the GN on the right. I took the pic after I swapped the drive gears.
While I was in there I had the wife stomp on the accelerator so I could verify the tv action. It buries fine but I have no idea if it comes out far enough at idle.
Glad you like the Street Demon. My Qjet is good but the Street Demon is tempting. I ran the .550" boost valve on the last 2004R in my 70S. It had a pressure hesitation at low speeds but fixed the 185 psi, up to 215 psi in the forward gears with the .550" valve. I added the Transgo green line bias spring and billet servo. I ground my the small weight to look like the GN governor. That spring pops out and you only have first gear. I stake it by tapping a screw and grinding the head down. It had 5000 rpm shifts, nice and firm. Around town was exactly like stock but firm when you stood on it.
Thanks 307, for the info. The Street Demon is a little lean for the 455 out of the box. I replaced the squirter with the larger unit, went with the smallest metering rods in the kit (an overpriced friggin' thing), and the largest jets. I think I solved my lean-ping. I'd been trying to tune it out through timing; limited the mechanical, upped the initial, and bought an adjustable vac can. But if memory serves, my all-in with vac can is 40 or 42*; seems a little low. I might add some mechanical back in and put in one stiffer spring. This stuff can be like juggling cats.
The trans is going to have to wait. It's shifting decent and firm but pressures are a little low. 1st around 190. But I think I have valve issues. When I bought the ported J-heads I didn't realize they had ground the valve stems down. I couldn't get a perfect pattern but figured I'd deal with it later. But I think they ground through the hardened tips because the pattern is wearing into the tip and the edges are chipping. I'm hoping it's just a matter of pulling the heads and replacing the vlaves. Maybe I'll get lucky and the pushrods will be just the right length. Hey, it could happen! Have you ever pulled iron heads with the engine in the bay? Is it as fun as it sounds?
T be clear, I couldn't get a perfect pattern because I have the Comp Cams roller tip rockers and with the shorter valves I'd have to shorten the pushrods (I have an adjustable with checker springs) but that put the rocker down on the taper of the stud and would have galled.
Thanks 307, for the info. The Street Demon is a little lean for the 455 out of the box. I replaced the squirter with the larger unit, went with the smallest metering rods in the kit (an overpriced friggin' thing), and the largest jets. I think I solved my lean-ping. I'd been trying to tune it out through timing; limited the mechanical, upped the initial, and bought an adjustable vac can. But if memory serves, my all-in with vac can is 40 or 42*; seems a little low. I might add some mechanical back in and put in one stiffer spring. This stuff can be like juggling cats.
The trans is going to have to wait. It's shifting decent and firm but pressures are a little low. 1st around 190. But I think I have valve issues. When I bought the ported J-heads I didn't realize they had ground the valve stems down. I couldn't get a perfect pattern but figured I'd deal with it later. But I think they ground through the hardened tips because the pattern is wearing into the tip and the edges are chipping. I'm hoping it's just a matter of pulling the heads and replacing the vlaves. Maybe I'll get lucky and the pushrods will be just the right length. Hey, it could happen! Have you ever pulled iron heads with the engine in the bay? Is it as fun as it sounds?
You should be able add at least a couple more degrees of timing. What is your total without vacuum advance? I may try my Qjet as is or send to Everyday Performance for the $75 recalibration for the 424 stroker or get the Street Demon 750. With 50 less ci, smaller cam and .5 lower compression, it will probably be close out of box for me. New valves may not be a bad idea, especially if they were ground on. I put #6 heads on the Olds 350 in my 88, it sucked. What sucked even more was swapping the Magnum heads on my 2000 Dodge Dakota. The head gaskets moved around as I was putting down the head, not fun at all. Your line pressure is low, even the 215-220 I got was questionable for a performance build, you need more line pressure. My shifts at 190 fell into place, not firm at all. That is how I knew there was an issue. Good luck.
I'm running 18* initial with 16* mechanical for a total of 34*. Only 7* in the vac can if my numbers are right. I'm still getting a little ping under heavy load but not WOT. I'm running two light springs so I may be getting some overlap; mechanical coming in too quickly maybe. I'll try a medium and light spring and see if that helps. All I use is Shell 93 which is climbing in price. My compression ratio is supposed to be around 9.6 but I think it may be more.
I highly recommend the Street Demon. The price is right and it's so easy to tune. Even swapping the jets was much easier than the quadrajet. And the phenolic fuel bowl model solved my gas boiling problem.
As far as the heads; I'll have to remove the AC box to get the passenger head bolts out, so it's good I didn't get the new compressor installed this summer. I can recruit a friend to help me heft them out of the bay but I'm more concerned with getting them back on with two people without damaging the gaskets. I really don't want to take the hood off but I will if I have to.
June 24th, 2019, 06:57 AM
200-4r speedo gears
