Headlight Switch to work w/actuators-66 Toro
#1
Headlight Switch to work w/actuators-66 Toro
Has anyone installed Firgelli type actuators in their Toronado's and have made the headlight switch work as the original?
The switch that came with the actuators is a (3) position DPDT toggle.
I have the original vacuum/electric switch and would think if I found a heavy duty all electric switch that can accommodate the (6) wires it could be installed in place of the original without poking a hole on the dash.
I apologize about the wiring diagram. I can't seem to get it to flip 180.
Any help is greatly appreciated.
streets
The switch that came with the actuators is a (3) position DPDT toggle.
I have the original vacuum/electric switch and would think if I found a heavy duty all electric switch that can accommodate the (6) wires it could be installed in place of the original without poking a hole on the dash.
I apologize about the wiring diagram. I can't seem to get it to flip 180.
Any help is greatly appreciated.
streets
#2
Ok, I know nothing of these linears, but I'll take the first shot at your question.
I take it that these have to be operated to the open position, the switch is then turned off. Then to close, same operation of the switch but in the other direction.
I do not understand how you can operate from a headlight switch if the power has to be switched off once they are in the desired position.
Do the actuators have any kind of limit switch that would cut power when retracted or extended, as like a power antenna?
I have seen electric set-ups for other headlight doors, but thought they had limit switches.
Found this.http://toronado.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1161
You could use a relay operated from the light wiring, using the NO contact for open and the NC for close, and the power for the actuator from a fused circuit that is off with the key.
Somebody here has done this, not me.
I take it that these have to be operated to the open position, the switch is then turned off. Then to close, same operation of the switch but in the other direction.
I do not understand how you can operate from a headlight switch if the power has to be switched off once they are in the desired position.
Do the actuators have any kind of limit switch that would cut power when retracted or extended, as like a power antenna?
I have seen electric set-ups for other headlight doors, but thought they had limit switches.
Found this.http://toronado.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1161
You could use a relay operated from the light wiring, using the NO contact for open and the NC for close, and the power for the actuator from a fused circuit that is off with the key.
Somebody here has done this, not me.
#3
Actuator Wiring
Ok, I know nothing of these linears, but I'll take the first shot at your question.
I take it that these have to be operated to the open position, the switch is then turned off. Then to close, same operation of the switch but in the other direction.
I do not understand how you can operate from a headlight switch if the power has to be switched off once they are in the desired position.
Do the actuators have any kind of limit switch that would cut power when retracted or extended, as like a power antenna?
I have seen electric set-ups for other headlight doors, but thought they had limit switches.
Found this.http://toronado.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1161
You could use a relay operated from the light wiring, using the NO contact for open and the NC for close, and the power for the actuator from a fused circuit that is off with the key.
Somebody here has done this, not me.
I take it that these have to be operated to the open position, the switch is then turned off. Then to close, same operation of the switch but in the other direction.
I do not understand how you can operate from a headlight switch if the power has to be switched off once they are in the desired position.
Do the actuators have any kind of limit switch that would cut power when retracted or extended, as like a power antenna?
I have seen electric set-ups for other headlight doors, but thought they had limit switches.
Found this.http://toronado.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1161
You could use a relay operated from the light wiring, using the NO contact for open and the NC for close, and the power for the actuator from a fused circuit that is off with the key.
Somebody here has done this, not me.
thanks for looking at my post.
Yes, The linear actuators are used to open & close the headlight doors.
Yes they have limit switches in them that cut off power once either open or closed positions are reached just like a power antenna.
The idea of a relay sounds good where it could be in the circuit before the headlight switch. It is also recommended to fuse the circuit.
I will check the link you gave me at toroorg.
Also, I did not know about responding to a post so others can come in until I checked your message. Thanks for the heads up on that.
Dave-streets
#4
If your parking lights work with your headlights,(not sure, believe this depends on year), I would use that wire to operate relay. Otherwise use the wire from headlight switch to dimmer.
Then use a fused wire (hot with key on) To the common contact, open operation on the NO contact and closed on the NC contact. Then when you turn on headlights doors open. Remove power to relay by turning headlights off, doors close.
But I would wait and hear this from others to confirm, or proceed at your own risk.
Anyone?
Oh, the message you got is standard when a reply is given to any post you post in or subscribe to.
Then use a fused wire (hot with key on) To the common contact, open operation on the NO contact and closed on the NC contact. Then when you turn on headlights doors open. Remove power to relay by turning headlights off, doors close.
But I would wait and hear this from others to confirm, or proceed at your own risk.
Anyone?
Oh, the message you got is standard when a reply is given to any post you post in or subscribe to.
#5
Headlight Switch & Actuators
Thanks again Patrick
I looked at the link and remember seeing it before. They don't seem to get into the switch, but what I did receive was an answer from Firegelli Automatons who I purchased the actuators & switch from. It reads:
"The issue with the Headlight switches is they will generally open or close a set of contacts, so cannot reverse the polarity to drive the actuator forward/backward like a rocker switch."
But if the switch is 3 position, you can wire in some relays to simulate a rocker switch."
The relay you both mention seems to be the key and my parking lights do run in the first "pull" position and stay on when the 2nd and last pull is all the way out.
I guess the question is-
what relay(s) would work (type),
and/or if there is a GM (3) position switch out there I can adapt.
The idea of pulling apart the stock headlight switch connector to make it work isn't what I really want to do. I would rather tap or pigtail off the wiring in the connector to power the relay(s).
Also, appreciate the standard automated addition to the text about responding. It looked like you typed it.
Dave-streets
I looked at the link and remember seeing it before. They don't seem to get into the switch, but what I did receive was an answer from Firegelli Automatons who I purchased the actuators & switch from. It reads:
"The issue with the Headlight switches is they will generally open or close a set of contacts, so cannot reverse the polarity to drive the actuator forward/backward like a rocker switch."
But if the switch is 3 position, you can wire in some relays to simulate a rocker switch."
The relay you both mention seems to be the key and my parking lights do run in the first "pull" position and stay on when the 2nd and last pull is all the way out.
I guess the question is-
what relay(s) would work (type),
and/or if there is a GM (3) position switch out there I can adapt.
The idea of pulling apart the stock headlight switch connector to make it work isn't what I really want to do. I would rather tap or pigtail off the wiring in the connector to power the relay(s).
Also, appreciate the standard automated addition to the text about responding. It looked like you typed it.
Dave-streets
#7
Eric, I took that he already bought and installed the actuators.
These relays are available at most auto parts stores. I am assuming the actuators are rated at less then 30 amps, so a 12V 30 Amp relay is what you need.
https://www.delcity.net/documents/au...ay_diagram.jsp
Look at the top drawing. Connect the fused source wire for the actuator feed to term 30, connect down (closed) wire to 37A, the up (open)wire to 37.
Connect the wire from parking lights to 85, and ground to 86.
The fused source wire should come from a wire that is hot only with the key on and fused at the recommendation from the manufacture.
Now, I hate to give these instructions over internet, and not being there, I am not responsible for any malfunction due to your install, either in harming the actuators or burning your car to the ground.
I also cannot diagnose this if it does not work, but this is where I would start.
Like Eric said above , there are kits out there that can be bought for this, and am surprised no one else has chimed in with actually doing this.
I have not done this.
These relays are available at most auto parts stores. I am assuming the actuators are rated at less then 30 amps, so a 12V 30 Amp relay is what you need.
https://www.delcity.net/documents/au...ay_diagram.jsp
Look at the top drawing. Connect the fused source wire for the actuator feed to term 30, connect down (closed) wire to 37A, the up (open)wire to 37.
Connect the wire from parking lights to 85, and ground to 86.
The fused source wire should come from a wire that is hot only with the key on and fused at the recommendation from the manufacture.
Now, I hate to give these instructions over internet, and not being there, I am not responsible for any malfunction due to your install, either in harming the actuators or burning your car to the ground.
I also cannot diagnose this if it does not work, but this is where I would start.
Like Eric said above , there are kits out there that can be bought for this, and am surprised no one else has chimed in with actually doing this.
I have not done this.
#10
The only other thing I see, I believe vacuum operators were made to be fail-safe, in that if vacuum fails, they fail open. (at least other makes) I would have a way to make them open easily if your system fails.
#12
Good Luck! I am following this because I would love to do actuators for my headlights someday. It is unfortunate that almost all other vehicles with hide-away headlights have aftermarket kits except the Toronado. I was thinking of using some old Ford Probe electronic actuators from its headlights but the whole dash light dimming of the headlight switch has got me thinking.
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