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Tech Editor's DeskProjects, papers, writings, thoughts, musings of our technical editor Joe Padavano. To begin with, he will be making threads and can approve posts to it if he wishes. This can be changed in the future if it does not work out well.
I'm trying to relearn what I knew 45 years ago. I acquired my first 55 in 1966 and there are a lot of things I forgot about the old car. I have a new 55 and it needs some work to get it running right. The poor idle problem has not been diagnosed yet, but is something I am capable of doing. What I don't know is where and what parts are still available for these old engines. I replaced a cam in a J2 while I was still in high school, (pre 1960) so I know they did go flat even when fairly new. New 55 has 72,000 miles.
Where can I find complete specs for the 1955 324 engine? Cam timing, tappet diameter, rocker ratio, valve lift, compression ratio, distributor specs, valve springs, etc.
If it has a flat cam, has anyone replaced the stock cam with an after market cam which will work well with the "R" series hydro? I do not want to vary much from the stock cam timing.
The air cleaner on my 55 looks completely ineffective. If it supposed to be an oil bath, it has no oil in it. There is no filter medium and nothing in it that would filter air. Can anyone explain this to me?
Air Filter also has a hose connected to the right valve cover. I don't remember on one my first 55. Why is that?
Any trouble encountered by boring this engine .125" oversize?
Has anyone done valve pocket/back cutting work on the 324 heads and had good results from the work? This always made a noticeable difference in street Chevy's without changing the stock cam.
New car does not have honeycomb radiator like the old one did. When did they change that? Where can I find the long rubber piece that goes across the front of the radiator?
Car has no power steering. Anyone have a PS setup for a 55 for sale? It is a bear to steer with radial tires.
Left upper door hinge needs fixing: broke friction spring. Anyone know where I can get a new hinge?
Car has new shocks, but I think they are too mushy. My original 55 had Monroe's and handled very well.
My first 55 Olds had 4700 miles on it when I bought it in 1966. (I was 24 then.) It was really brand new! Still had paper tags on the exhaust pipe. Previous owner had a small fender bender, had the car fixed and never drove it again. All the wheel bearings were Brinelled from sitting for 11 years without moving, and the tires were junk. I put 75,000 miles on it and it looked like new when I had to get rid of it, but it was my favorite car. It was the same as the present car, a two door HT.
Thanks for any help you can provide. I want to make this car the pleasure ride my first one was. All the parts are there, but they need some help. Someone did a very sloppy paint job on it, but it is what it is. I can't afford to have it stripped.
Well if you don't have a factory motor manual give Kevin at Ross Racing engines a call , they are the know it alls of first generation Olds engins http://rossracingengines.com/
Your air cleaner sounds as though it might have been converted to a dry paper system and the paper element is missing. Or you don't have the stock unit and someone has made up something I'm not aware of, there should not be a tube coming from the valve cover to the air cleaner on this era Olds, a picture would help a bunch.
Most 324's will go to 125 over but I would consider that close to max with out checking for wall thickness.I believe Ross racing and Eggie machine both have oversized pistons.
I have replaced my cam (stock specks) but it was a while ago and I can't remember from whom I got it. I have had no problems with it in 30000 miles. 56 324's were notorious for going flat but 55 seem to hold up fine are you sure the cam is flat?
On the valve pocket back cutting I again advise you to talk to Kevin at Ross Racing they make all kinds of speed equipment for our year Olds including aluminum heads, they know there stuff.
We at CO would love to see a few pictures if you haven't already done so and if you don't get much response on this forum drop on down to the vintage forum where a bunch of 55 types live and you may find you will get more attention there....Lost in the fifties ...Tedd
Well after another look, the plot thickens. My engine has an PVC valve and a connection to the carb base. Rochester tag says 7001000. Haven't found an engines size or year for that carb yet. Carb hose evidently goes into the lifter valley. Does not have a draft tube. So, this may not be a 324. My 1964 Motor's Manual says PCV was started in 1961-62 on California cars. I believe 1961 was the last year for the 371, so I guess it is possible for the engine to be a 371 or 394. Was it possible to put 324 heads on the taller deck blocks with 371/394 manifold? Distributor number is 1110850: correct for a 55 324.
Did the PCV pipes go into the same hole as the draft vent?
A closer look at the air cleaner found some filter media inside, but it cannot be changed, and I don't know how you could clean it. Look like it is supposed to be whetted with oil, but no accurate way to add oil or clean oil. Strange!
Took the backup lenses off and the guy who did the paint job didn't mask off the backup bezels; he removed them and painted the sockets with the bulbs in them. Yep, painted the bulbs. What a hack! He also painted all the wires in the trunk. Backup lights do not work.
Previous owner added a burglar alarm. He used those squeeze connectors that have a questionable life cycle. I need a wiring diagram to fix that mess. He also added an electric fuel pump instead of replace the original. ???
I'll take your advice and order the service manual from the CO guy.
Last edited by kirkwoodken; September 14th, 2013 at 09:32 PM.
Heads: Look for a number embossed in the heads in between #2 and #4 (or between #3 and #5). #8 is a 1955 head. #23 is a 1961-64 Starfire head
A 1955 block will have a flange with a code on it between the first and second exhaust port on the driver's side. It is pretty difficult to find, but shine a very bright flashlight down and scrape the engine block with a screwdriver or something till you find the little tag.
Here is mine:
Was it possible to put 324 heads on the taller deck blocks with 371/394 manifold?
It looks like it is possible to go the other way with some machining, so it is a possiblity:
303 intakes won't work on later style heads on a 371 or 394. Probably not going to work on #10 heads. 324 & 371 intakes can go down on early style heads (49-55). Just port out early head runners to match larger intake ports. Angle bank is the same on all engines, 303-394. Don't forget to enlargen bolt holes on 371 intake if fitting to 303 or 324.
I have been accumulating a lot of the information about Olds motors over the last few months. Here is what i have found:
(1949-1950 Heads may not have marking on top)
#2 Early 303 (Usually 1952)
#3 1953
#7 1954
#8 1955
#10 1956
#14 1957-1958 371
#16 1957-1958 371
#17 Heavy Truck Head (GMC)
#18 1959-1960
#20 Non-Starfire
#21 (Exist? Rumored, cannot confirm. Possible Industrial Application)
#23 1961-1964 Starfire (Different exhaust bolt pattern than #18 heads) Pretty strong heads.
1956 324 V8s have better flowing heads and bigger camshaft journals than the previous 303/324. Always use a head gasket which matches your cylinder head. Only exception: Bore out a 303 to 4 inch bore, use 324 head gaskets. Cometic MLS head gaskets are the best.
Like Mr Thompson said, contact Ross Racing for any of your custom needs. From what i have read, that guy has forgotten more about these olds engines than i will ever know!
For us new guys to working on cars, I just put in new head gaskets on my 55 olds super 88 324cui. I just found out I’m sposed to use a torque wrench. Can someone explain the process and specs for tightening the heads back on? Abd for the intake manifold? Also where do I use thread lock?
For us new guys to working on cars, I just put in new head gaskets on my 55 olds super 88 324cui. I just found out I’m sposed to use a torque wrench. Can someone explain the process and specs for tightening the heads back on? Abd for the intake manifold? Also where do I use thread lock?
Its never been a secret that head bolts and intake manifold bolts need to be torqued. You need to spend the money to get a CSM, its all covered in there.
Its never been a secret that head bolts and intake manifold bolts need to be torqued. You need to spend the money to get a CSM, its all covered in there.
well first off I don’t have the manual at the moment. Isn’t that what this website is for? To ask questions that other people have the answers to. It’s fine thanks for the help.
Here's a very basic & general range of torque values for various automotive fasteners. I think I copied this from my 1971 CSM, but it will provide you w/ a 'general' understanding of torque specification "ranges". High quality, high performance "exacting" torque wrenches are expensive. Find a happy medium based on your affordability. You'll own this torque wrench the majority of your life (as a home mechanic). The lower end of the torque scale range is in "inches", the higher end of the torque scale range is in "foot". Review the various types of torque wrenches, manufacturers, price ranges and the torque values required for the various fasteners and make an informed decision. Obviously, torque value will be specific for a 1955 Oldsmobile (found in the CSM); but, they'll generally fall w/in the ranges identified in this chart. Good Luck!
Here's a very basic & general range of torque values for various automotive fasteners. I think I copied this from my 1971 CSM, but it will provide you w/ a 'general' understanding of torque specification "ranges". High quality, high performance "exacting" torque wrenches are expensive. Find a happy medium based on your affordability. You'll own this torque wrench the majority of your life (as a home mechanic). The lower end of the torque scale range is in "inches", the higher end of the torque scale range is in "foot". Review the various types of torque wrenches, manufacturers, price ranges and the torque values required for the various fasteners and make an informed decision. Obviously, torque value will be specific for a 1955 Oldsmobile (found in the CSM); but, they'll generally fall w/in the ranges identified in this chart. Good Luck!
great! Thank you for that. I’m guessing I start in the middle and work my way out as I torque everything?
great! Thank you for that. I’m guessing I start in the middle and work my way out as I torque everything?
I absolutely cannot speak to the sequence of torquing a 324 engine. That's the importance of the CSM. Sorry. Materials employed during manufacturing of the intake manifold, the fasteners themselves & significantly the heat ranges all play a role in determining the sequence of fastening various devices. Can't help you there. NOTE: Cyl. head bolts & intake manifold bolts should be dipped in oil (asterisk *).
I absolutely cannot speak to the sequence of torquing a 324 engine. That's the importance of the CSM. Sorry. Materials employed during manufacturing of the intake manifold, the fasteners themselves & significantly the heat ranges all play a role in determining the sequence of fastening various devices. Can't help you there. NOTE: Cyl. head bolts & intake manifold bolts should be dipped in oil (asterisk *).
Just regular engine oil to dip the bolts. Ensure the bolts and the hole are clean. To clean the holes you can run the bolt up/down the hole numerous times, cleaning the bolt each time looking for grit, then blow out the hole. I generally use the blue high temp Loctite upon fastening to final torque value.
I'll note>>>after several hot/cold engine cycles after the car has been "driven" down the road numerous times (say 100, miles, 500 miles, then 1,000 miles) revisit those fasteners w/ the torque wrench.
I'll note>>>after several hot/cold engine cycles after the car has been "driven" down the road numerous times (say 100, miles, 500 miles, then 1,000 miles) revisit those fasteners w/ the torque wrench.
Thats what I was guessing thank you for clarifying
It's FAR too easy to forget what has been done to what and when it was done when you're learning the many aspects of working on cars. To that end, you should religiously maintain a record book w/ date, time, mileage, part (manufacturer), etc. We'll all attempt to beat you up about this, so take no offense. The Chassis Service Manual for your car is the absolute, hands down bible for your car. Shop around, buy a USED manual - you'll never look back. You might find some in better condition or worse condition - at the end of the day - BUY ONE.
It's FAR too easy to forget what has been done to what and when it was done when you're learning the many aspects of working on cars. To that end, you should religiously maintain a record book w/ date, time, mileage, part (manufacturer), etc. We'll all attempt to beat you up about this, so take no offense. The Chassis Service Manual for your car is the absolute, hands down bible for your car. Shop around, buy a USED manual - you'll never look back. You might find some in better condition or worse condition - at the end of the day - BUY ONE.
You will soon learn that you diagnose a problem as well as you can before you start purchasing parts, much cheaper that way, faster also. I must ask, did you find a problem with your head gasket? Did you try the hydrocarbon test for a leaking head gasket, could have saved you the price of a torque wrench early on in your heating up issue... Tedd
Well I borrowed the torque wrench and I had the new head gaskets but the old ones didn’t seem bad. This whole cooling system just has me stumped! I was sure it was a blown head gasket because I’m sure they’ve never been changed. No I didn’t try that test I’m not sure what that is, maybe I’ve been told but I get a lot of info on here so I might just not be remembering that test. And I’m slowly getting better at diagnosing
Well I borrowed the torque wrench and I had the new head gaskets but the old ones didn’t seem bad. This whole cooling system just has me stumped! I was sure it was a blown head gasket because I’m sure they’ve never been changed. No I didn’t try that test I’m not sure what that is, maybe I’ve been told but I get a lot of info on here so I might just not be remembering that test. And I’m slowly getting better at diagnosing
question for you, does silicone go on the metal gaskets for intake manifold?
Silicone only on water ports; you can use a non-silicone sealer elsewhere if desired.
I learned that the hard way. I didn’t use anything on my intake manifold then had to take it all off to put on silicone around the water ports but it works great now. On each side of my exhaust there’s one bolt that if you take it out coolant will poor out, do you put thread sealer on that?
Head gaskets generally are a one time use Item, there are exceptions, but you are not in that area with your 55. Gaskets are laminated and need to be crushed when they are torqued. There is a greater risk that they will not seal when used twice.
On the bolts that go into the water jacket, I use never seize, Fact is it's not a bad ides to use it on all exhaust manifold bolts as they are probably he most troublesome bolts ( really studs) on the car.... Tedd
Head gaskets generally are a one time use Item, there are exceptions, but you are not in that area with your 55. Gaskets are laminated and need to be crushed when they are torqued. There is a greater risk that they will not seal when used twice.
On the bolts that go into the water jacket, I use never seize, Fact is it's not a bad ides to use it on all exhaust manifold bolts as they are probably he most troublesome bolts ( really studs) on the car.... Tedd
ok good to know I appreciate that! I haven’t had any leaks yet but one of these day soon I’ll try that stuff
September 14th, 2013, 09:00 AM
