Greg Rogers

Hi, I have worked on many Olds V8 engines back in the day when I was a mechanic and never had any problems with the standard "turkey tray" fel-pro gasket. I rebuilt the 350 in my 71 Cutlass in about 1997 with no problems. When I decided to change cams in the Cutlass last year I started having problems. I had a big vacuum leak on the right rear of the intake. I chaulked it up to not being carefull enough and re did it. Sure enough when apart I found the "divit" was crushed. So I got another fel-pro gasket and was very carefull installing. When putting together I could see the divits wouldnt all fit at once and had to grind one to make all 4 fit flat. Yep you guessed it I still apparently have a intake leak thru the bottom because I cant notice any difference w/spraying start fluid around top of intake. But idle is rough and cyls 6 and 8 plugs are white(lean). Now looking at all the posts apparently I'm not the only 1 having problems. Is there another manufacturer of the gasket? Maybe go to dealer and get a GM one? (if still available)Let me know what you think. Thanks Greg.

oldcutlass

This has been a problem for many years, they are stamped wrong! You have to do basically what you did. And make sure to use RTV around the ports as per the instructions. I've always been careful and test fit prior to putting on the RTV just as you did. Some people throw away the china wall seals and use a good bead of RTV there. I prefer the rubbers. I also like to have a buddy help me place the manifold on as that bastid weighs a ton and is hard to manhandle.

There is also a 4 piece steel shim gasket set that is available. I actually prefer this one. But if your engine runs on the warm side it may build up crud under manifold as your engine probably does not have the tray bolted in the lifter galley area.

The performance fiber gaskets also work well!

Greg Rogers

Thanks for your reply. I'll take back apart this week and try again. I was wondering if maybe you could use the 4 pc performance gasket and the turkey tray together or use a piece of the tray just to keep the oil off the hot heat riser part of the bottom of the intake and then the 4pc?? Thanks again.

oldcutlass

When you take it apart look to see if there are 2 threaded holes in the center of your lifter galley. You may be able to find the stock tray, rectangular about 5-6 inches long and 2 bolts hold it in place, then use the 4 piece gasket.

Greg Rogers

I looked at Mondellos catalog and they have a tray that bolts to the block, but they say block has to be drilled and tapped on 350's. Might be worth it as I am using stock choke w/exhaust going thru intake. I like your 67-Sharp!! Thanks again.

ah64pilot

You don't want to do that unless you plan on tearing the engine completely apart. I would hate to see you get metal shavings in the rotating assembly!

Also, Mondello is bad news. I think you can get that tray from www.oldsperformanceproducts.com or www.dickmillerracing.com

oldcutlass

X2, I was asking if it had the threaded holes, not for you to drill them.

jerseyjoe

The turkey pan is a pain, but it may be worth it. My 350 had the valley pan and the left side of the engine had a pile of sludge between the 3 and 5 cylinder push rods. I am assuming from hitting the manifold, as the heads under the valve covers on both sides and the right side under the intake were spotless. You definitely need to bend it to some degree for the divits to line up, I also used a tapered drift to enlarge the holes so they would lock in place better. You will need help setting the intake back on as well. It is just too heavy to drop in place alone without risking the intake gasket shifting.
Hope the 3rd time is a charm!