oldcutlass

The green and blue wire described are correct for the idiot lights.

adis

thx, Eric. Yes idiot lights, not gauges.

cfair

See Joe P's diagram for an oil-pressure-linked choke.

It's a good move: No oil pressure, no power to the choke = good safety precaution. You need a different sensor and you'll need to cobble up a connector using a headlamp plastic terminal. You can get electrical parts to build it from Auveco. Great catalog.

In '66 big cars, the blue/white stripe wire was for oil pressure. The Temp sensor had two green wires (light & dark) going to hot & cold lights. I can't be too sure of the temp sensor wire colors since I'm a bit color blind.

Macadoo

Boy, it's been a while but I think you are correct. My green wire still hangs free but I'm using a temp gauge, now. Blue for oil pressure, red is power in (fused) and the third wire is out to the choke, IIRC.

Bobbity

Before I try this, the PS 127 is good to go on a '64 330? Everywhere I look, it says incompatible, but I'm thinking that's because of the multiple prongs, not the threads...

joe_padavano

"Everywhere" you look will tell you what the stock replacement part is. This is NOT a stock replacement part for a 1964 Olds, thus it will not be shown as "compatible". No 1964 Olds has an electric choke, so searching "compatibility" is worthless. Every single 1964-1990 Olds V8 has the same 1/8 NPT thread port for the oil sender.

Bobbity

Thanks, Joe, that's what I thought. I've never made a mistake before, but, I suppose it could happen. Just wanted to be 99.785342% sure...

Orlando 1

You may have seen this but I found nice new factory style connectors of various types here:
https://theelectricaldepot.com/weath...ef69e1b212cbd2

P.S.: I know this thread is 10 years old. My car is 50 years old, I think the information will still be good.

MrEarl

Thanks for the Electrical Depot reference @Orlando 1 . I had to temporarily re-route my AC blower fan wiring around a burned out connector and had to just use single plug type connectors. Will be ordering the 3 way male and females and redoing it correctly now.
And thanks @joe_padavano for sharing your trick with the 3 prong sender. I'll be using it.

Phoenix8990

I decided to wire up the choke on my 69 Cutlass as shown with the inline fuse. I picked up a headlight socket. One side to the alternator, the other to the choke and the middle to the dash light. The light stays on while the ignition is not on. When I turn the ignition on it goes out. I double checked the wiring and it is as shown. Any thoughts?

Steve

joe_padavano

You have the PS127 switch, right? With the engine not running, there should be continuity from the center terminal to the case of the switch with the engine off and no continuity from the center terminal to either of the other terminals. Check this. The two outer terminals should have no continuity to anything with the engine off and only continuity to each other with the engine on.

Phoenix8990

Well I'm beginning to wish I had the PS 127, I bought the NAPA OP6610 which is suppose to be the same. I wonder. At any rate I removed the connector and have no continuity between any terminal and the base. I have continuity between the center terminal and one side term. Do I have a bad switch or just one that is not compatible.
thanks,
Steve

joe_padavano

That's the wrong switch, unfortunately. In fairness to NAPA, there has been some gyration in the part numbers of these switches. The one you have is a common electric fuel pump switch that is not functionally the same as the PS127.

joe_padavano

By the way, the NAPA switch equivalent to PS127 is OP6618. That info is in the first post in this thread.

Phoenix8990

Thanks, I guess somewhere in the long thread someone put the OP6610 # in and I took the bait. I'll pick one up and post how it goes.
thanks again for your time and help,
Steve

Mark21

Joe, Sorry to bring this up again, but I have a question about the electric choke setup off the alternator. I've done this and it seems to work fine except the choke wire and housing gets extremely hot extremely fast. I've checked the voltages and wiring per the schematic and it's wired correctly. The problem is that the choke opens up almost immediately. I thought of adding a resistor with a large heatsink to see if I could bleed off the amps. I've swapped the choke mechanism and swapped the oil pressure switch. Just don't know what's going on. Any advice would help. Thanks

joe_padavano

The electric choke element is designed to be connected directly to +12 V (actually 13.8 V or so in reality). The only way for it to get too hot is if the coil is somehow defective or if your regulator is not working properly. Have you checked voltage at the terminal on the choke coil? Also, have you adjusted the coil to slow the choke opening? You can loosen the screws and rotate the choke coil housing in the carb to change the tension on the linkage.

Mark21

I'll check it again but I believe the voltage output from the alternator and into the choke is right at 12V.
Update: I verified the voltages. 14.59V while the engine is running. Checked across the battery terminals, at the alternator and at the choke connector. Hmmmm.