Daily driving a 68 Delta 88 455
August 29th, 2017, 08:36 PM
#1
Daily driving a 68 Delta 88 455
Is a 455 reliable as a daily driver in my 68 Delta 88?
Also was wondering about a 1965 Stardfire I saw up for sale with a 425. Are they basically the same or is one better in some way or overall?
Also was wondering about a 1965 Stardfire I saw up for sale with a 425. Are they basically the same or is one better in some way or overall?
If the car has been maintained why not? Collector car insurance may be an issue because they don't like them driven as daily drivers.
August 29th, 2017, 08:42 PM
#3
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 13,734
August 29th, 2017, 09:24 PM
#4
Thank you very much I wanted to here from someone directly about it I plan on starting on a freshly built to daily drive I say even with the mpg it's worth it because it's paid off and insurance is cheap thanks again
August 29th, 2017, 09:26 PM
#5
August 29th, 2017, 09:49 PM
#6
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 2,980
Curious as to why a rebuild? If it runs well, compression is good etc., a timing chain, valve seals and gaskets may be all that is needed. Sometimes a "rebuild" can bring problems to an otherwise good engine.
Good luck!!!
Good luck!!!
August 29th, 2017, 11:00 PM
#7
I blew the original engine flooring it on the freeway so I'm going to get it rebuilt with better heads and get a bigger oil pan so it doesn't burn up again. Or I might save it for another Oldsmobile in the future and buy a complete crate 455, are those worth any while? Are there any good companies that make them for a good price that can be daily driven? Just curious because id like to know the best option😁
August 30th, 2017, 07:51 AM
#9
Old(s) Fart
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 47,259
I'm just finishing up my 67 D88 to be a daily driver. I really like the idea of a daily driver that is half a century old. 
In my case, this car needed a lot, and I wanted it to be dead stone reliable, so I completely rebuilt every single part of the steering, suspension, brakes, and exhaust. I also dropped in a rebuilt 455 that I had because the 425 was tired and blowing oil smoke.
There are three problems with using a car like this as a daily driver.
1) Normal maintenance parts will not be on the shelf at the local parts store. In many cases you will need to order them on line and face a week or more delay while the part is shipped. In my case, I stockpile a lot of stuff (hey, when you have a dozen Oldmobiles, you need that stuff), but be advised that the car might be down for a week or more at a time due to parts availability.
2) Certain normal wear items are nearly impossible to get for this specific car. The upper ball joints, center link, idler arm, and brake drums are not readily available. Kanter sells some Chinesium parts that are close, but not exactly like original. Rare Parts does sell a US-made center link, but it is spendy. Be aware of this.
3) Body and trim parts are nonexistent. If the car is damaged in an accident, you will pretty much have to buy another parts car to fix it.
These are not intended to stop you from daily driving this car (and they don't stop me), but be aware of these issues and do this with your eyes open. Bottom like is that this can't be your only vehicle if you absolutely MUST be able to drive somewhere.
In my case, this car needed a lot, and I wanted it to be dead stone reliable, so I completely rebuilt every single part of the steering, suspension, brakes, and exhaust. I also dropped in a rebuilt 455 that I had because the 425 was tired and blowing oil smoke.
There are three problems with using a car like this as a daily driver.
1) Normal maintenance parts will not be on the shelf at the local parts store. In many cases you will need to order them on line and face a week or more delay while the part is shipped. In my case, I stockpile a lot of stuff (hey, when you have a dozen Oldmobiles, you need that stuff), but be advised that the car might be down for a week or more at a time due to parts availability.
2) Certain normal wear items are nearly impossible to get for this specific car. The upper ball joints, center link, idler arm, and brake drums are not readily available. Kanter sells some Chinesium parts that are close, but not exactly like original. Rare Parts does sell a US-made center link, but it is spendy. Be aware of this.
3) Body and trim parts are nonexistent. If the car is damaged in an accident, you will pretty much have to buy another parts car to fix it.
These are not intended to stop you from daily driving this car (and they don't stop me), but be aware of these issues and do this with your eyes open. Bottom like is that this can't be your only vehicle if you absolutely MUST be able to drive somewhere.
August 30th, 2017, 02:12 PM
#11
I'm just finishing up my 67 D88 to be a daily driver. I really like the idea of a daily driver that is half a century old.
In my case, this car needed a lot, and I wanted it to be dead stone reliable, so I completely rebuilt every single part of the steering, suspension, brakes, and exhaust. I also dropped in a rebuilt 455 that I had because the 425 was tired and blowing oil smoke.
There are three problems with using a car like this as a daily driver.
1) Normal maintenance parts will not be on the shelf at the local parts store. In many cases you will need to order them on line and face a week or more delay while the part is shipped. In my case, I stockpile a lot of stuff (hey, when you have a dozen Oldmobiles, you need that stuff), but be advised that the car might be down for a week or more at a time due to parts availability.
2) Certain normal wear items are nearly impossible to get for this specific car. The upper ball joints, center link, idler arm, and brake drums are not readily available. Kanter sells some Chinesium parts that are close, but not exactly like original. Rare Parts does sell a US-made center link, but it is spendy. Be aware of this.
3) Body and trim parts are nonexistent. If the car is damaged in an accident, you will pretty much have to buy another parts car to fix it.
These are not intended to stop you from daily driving this car (and they don't stop me), but be aware of these issues and do this with your eyes open. Bottom like is that this can't be your only vehicle if you absolutely MUST be able to drive somewhere.
In my case, this car needed a lot, and I wanted it to be dead stone reliable, so I completely rebuilt every single part of the steering, suspension, brakes, and exhaust. I also dropped in a rebuilt 455 that I had because the 425 was tired and blowing oil smoke.
There are three problems with using a car like this as a daily driver.
1) Normal maintenance parts will not be on the shelf at the local parts store. In many cases you will need to order them on line and face a week or more delay while the part is shipped. In my case, I stockpile a lot of stuff (hey, when you have a dozen Oldmobiles, you need that stuff), but be advised that the car might be down for a week or more at a time due to parts availability.
2) Certain normal wear items are nearly impossible to get for this specific car. The upper ball joints, center link, idler arm, and brake drums are not readily available. Kanter sells some Chinesium parts that are close, but not exactly like original. Rare Parts does sell a US-made center link, but it is spendy. Be aware of this.
3) Body and trim parts are nonexistent. If the car is damaged in an accident, you will pretty much have to buy another parts car to fix it.
These are not intended to stop you from daily driving this car (and they don't stop me), but be aware of these issues and do this with your eyes open. Bottom like is that this can't be your only vehicle if you absolutely MUST be able to drive somewhere.
August 30th, 2017, 02:18 PM
#12
Exactly, what you get out of it outweighs all the negatives and since it's paid off the extra gas is just like a car payment I just wanted to here it from some real Oldsmobile enthusiasts thank you!
August 30th, 2017, 02:21 PM
#13
I'm just finishing up my 67 D88 to be a daily driver. I really like the idea of a daily driver that is half a century old.
In my case, this car needed a lot, and I wanted it to be dead stone reliable, so I completely rebuilt every single part of the steering, suspension, brakes, and exhaust. I also dropped in a rebuilt 455 that I had because the 425 was tired and blowing oil smoke.
There are three problems with using a car like this as a daily driver.
1) Normal maintenance parts will not be on the shelf at the local parts store. In many cases you will need to order them on line and face a week or more delay while the part is shipped. In my case, I stockpile a lot of stuff (hey, when you have a dozen Oldmobiles, you need that stuff), but be advised that the car might be down for a week or more at a time due to parts availability.
2) Certain normal wear items are nearly impossible to get for this specific car. The upper ball joints, center link, idler arm, and brake drums are not readily available. Kanter sells some Chinesium parts that are close, but not exactly like original. Rare Parts does sell a US-made center link, but it is spendy. Be aware of this.
3) Body and trim parts are nonexistent. If the car is damaged in an accident, you will pretty much have to buy another parts car to fix it.
These are not intended to stop you from daily driving this car (and they don't stop me), but be aware of these issues and do this with your eyes open. Bottom like is that this can't be your only vehicle if you absolutely MUST be able to drive somewhere.
In my case, this car needed a lot, and I wanted it to be dead stone reliable, so I completely rebuilt every single part of the steering, suspension, brakes, and exhaust. I also dropped in a rebuilt 455 that I had because the 425 was tired and blowing oil smoke.
There are three problems with using a car like this as a daily driver.
1) Normal maintenance parts will not be on the shelf at the local parts store. In many cases you will need to order them on line and face a week or more delay while the part is shipped. In my case, I stockpile a lot of stuff (hey, when you have a dozen Oldmobiles, you need that stuff), but be advised that the car might be down for a week or more at a time due to parts availability.
2) Certain normal wear items are nearly impossible to get for this specific car. The upper ball joints, center link, idler arm, and brake drums are not readily available. Kanter sells some Chinesium parts that are close, but not exactly like original. Rare Parts does sell a US-made center link, but it is spendy. Be aware of this.
3) Body and trim parts are nonexistent. If the car is damaged in an accident, you will pretty much have to buy another parts car to fix it.
These are not intended to stop you from daily driving this car (and they don't stop me), but be aware of these issues and do this with your eyes open. Bottom like is that this can't be your only vehicle if you absolutely MUST be able to drive somewhere.
September 11th, 2017, 02:58 PM
#14
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Lehigh County Pennsylvania
Posts: 679
68 Delta has dual master brake cylinder over the 65 Starfire, unless someone updated it.
September 11th, 2017, 03:06 PM
#15
Old(s) Fart
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 47,259
Mechanically, the 65-70 full size cars are pretty much the same. Same frame, same suspension, same brakes (at least for the standard drums), same drivetrain (BBO and TH400). Same steering linkage. There were a number of federally-madated safety items that weren't incorporated until the 1967 or 68 model years and thus are not on the 65 - collapsible steering column, dual circuit brake system, shoulder belts (1968-up), side marker lights (1968-up), park lights on with the headlights, etc. Of course the BBO was the 425 for 1965-67 and the 455 for 68-up. The 65-67 cars have the switch pitch converter in the trans, the 68-up do not. The 1965 cars have the 8.875" Pontiac rear axle. The 66-up BBO cars have the 9.3" Type O axle.
September 11th, 2017, 08:06 PM
#16
Mechanically, the 65-70 full size cars are pretty much the same. Same frame, same suspension, same brakes (at least for the standard drums), same drivetrain (BBO and TH400). Same steering linkage. There were a number of federally-madated safety items that weren't incorporated until the 1967 or 68 model years and thus are not on the 65 - collapsible steering column, dual circuit brake system, shoulder belts (1968-up), side marker lights (1968-up), park lights on with the headlights, etc. Of course the BBO was the 425 for 1965-67 and the 455 for 68-up. The 65-67 cars have the switch pitch converter in the trans, the 68-up do not. The 1965 cars have the 8.875" Pontiac rear axle. The 66-up BBO cars have the 9.3" Type O axle.
sorry for the loaded question
September 12th, 2017, 03:46 AM
#17
Old(s) Fart
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 47,259
Thanks for the information that's good to know because I want to change the gears maybe to 3.08 or something and get new axles but I don't know what would be good for my car that would have the right gear ratio overall drivability is there somme place I can get a complete rear end for these cars like that?
sorry for the loaded question
sorry for the loaded question
September 12th, 2017, 08:59 AM
#18
Moderator
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Atlanta, Georgia
Posts: 17,601
September 12th, 2017, 09:08 AM
#19
Old(s) Fart
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 47,259
^^^THIS!
Like "numbers matching" the term "crate engine" has become so misused as to be meaningless. The term was created to describe BRAND NEW engines from the OEMs delivered IN CRATES (get it?). These were originally service replacement motors available through the parts counter, but GM Performance Parts started selling brand new motors that were never installed in production vehicles, like the 383 SBC. Naturally the other manufacturers followed suit (347 small block Fords, for example). The key factor in these crate motors is that they are built from 100% new parts, including all new castings. Some aftermarket companies (like Dart, for example) now sell crate motors from their own brand new castings.
Any motor that uses old casting is just a rebuilt motor. I don't care if you get it from ATK Engines, Jasper, or Mondello, it's not a "crate motor", it's a rebuilt. Until the release of the Rocket Racing block recently, there were no brand new Oldsmobile castings to even let someone sell a crate motor. That may change now, but as of today there are no totally new Olds motors being made.
By the way, there are some who think a used block is preferred for a performance build, as the heat cycling from use effectively stress relieves the castings. In his drag racing days, Jack Roush used to take brand new blocks from Ford and bury the in the ground for a year before remachining all surfaces. Apparently this also stress relieved the block (or so he claimed).
Like "numbers matching" the term "crate engine" has become so misused as to be meaningless. The term was created to describe BRAND NEW engines from the OEMs delivered IN CRATES (get it?). These were originally service replacement motors available through the parts counter, but GM Performance Parts started selling brand new motors that were never installed in production vehicles, like the 383 SBC. Naturally the other manufacturers followed suit (347 small block Fords, for example). The key factor in these crate motors is that they are built from 100% new parts, including all new castings. Some aftermarket companies (like Dart, for example) now sell crate motors from their own brand new castings.
Any motor that uses old casting is just a rebuilt motor. I don't care if you get it from ATK Engines, Jasper, or Mondello, it's not a "crate motor", it's a rebuilt. Until the release of the Rocket Racing block recently, there were no brand new Oldsmobile castings to even let someone sell a crate motor. That may change now, but as of today there are no totally new Olds motors being made.
By the way, there are some who think a used block is preferred for a performance build, as the heat cycling from use effectively stress relieves the castings. In his drag racing days, Jack Roush used to take brand new blocks from Ford and bury the in the ground for a year before remachining all surfaces. Apparently this also stress relieved the block (or so he claimed).
September 12th, 2017, 10:46 AM
#20
Okay that would be awesome though but probably really expensive. I daily drive it for a while before and even on the old engine that had been sitting for years I didn't mind mpg too much and seemed to get better then I'd expect sometimes
September 12th, 2017, 10:50 AM
#21
September 12th, 2017, 11:52 AM
#22
delete
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 2,807
My $.02 - if the car isn't equipped think about some enhancements to bring it closer to today's standards for handling & stopping. If not already equipped, think about a rear sway bar, radial tires and power disc brakes.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/a...model/delta-88
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/a...model/delta-88
September 12th, 2017, 11:58 AM
#23
Old(s) Fart
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 47,259
My $.02 - if the car isn't equipped think about some enhancements to bring it closer to today's standards for handling & stopping. If not already equipped, think about a rear sway bar, radial tires and power disc brakes.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/a...model/delta-88
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/a...model/delta-88
I'd be amazed if they sell much of anything that fits a 65-70 Olds full size (other than the common engine and trans parts).
September 12th, 2017, 12:28 PM
#24
My $.02 - if the car isn't equipped think about some enhancements to bring it closer to today's standards for handling & stopping. If not already equipped, think about a rear sway bar, radial tires and power disc brakes.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/a...model/delta-88
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/a...model/delta-88
January 10th, 2019, 06:08 AM
#25
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 314
I've enhanced the suspension on 3 old cars and it was worth it. ('67 Lemans, '65 Tbird, '69 GTO). The thing about daily driving an old car is little things will break and fail that you wouldn't expect on a newer car. ***** break off, window mechanisms fall off the track, the air conditioning leaks Freon from more than one place, control arm bushings wear out, radiators spring leaks. You have to be patient and be a decent mechanic or have access to a a good garage with older guys working there.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
