lemoldsnut

So, I have my 67 442 convertible. It has factory power windows and they have always been a pain in the butt. I replaced the rears with aftermarket set up a few years back and had to put a series of relays in to use the factory switches but they work very well go up and down good and never any issues.

The fronts have been a pain forever. I replaced the motors a few times now. Always using what ever it the best possible available replacement motors. I replaced the in dash harness and relay with a very nice reproduction unit. All done in factory style. I have removed the regulators and inspected them over and over and they are in good shape. Lubed all the rollers and guides and adjusted to make sure does not bind. But it has always been a pain to get them to run up and down. I almost always have to push some or pull some to assist them up or down.

I am considering replacing the front set up with aftermarket set up or go to manual. Anyone have some great words of wisdom on how to fix this issue?

Thanks in advance
Larry

m371961

I had a lot of trouble with mine. Sometimes OK, sometimes not. Any voltage drop through the switches and the switch pin connector gave me trouble. I don't like the GM design, and the original style master switch for my 98 was not available new, nor could I find the harness pin connector. I finally changed them all to a 0n-0ff-On Echlin momentary toogle switch, doing away with the connectors. May not be the route you want or need. When you apply power directly to the motors how do they work?

lemoldsnut

I am pretty sure come the spring when I start driving it often again I will just upgrade to aftermarket front window regulators and be done with the factory units. They are a pain. The rears work great so more than likely will use the same brand.

Can't remember what that is right now. But have the info somewhere in all my papers.

cfair

With factory electric windows, there are trade offs. Precisely placed windows (up/down, in/out fore/aft) run slowly. 3-10 Hours of trial and error to get it close to right.

Do the rears first, then fronts. Slightly loose windows roll faster,but are more prone to rattling. 1/16 gap will whistle. There is a shade tree $ bill test to test for tightness. Consider shimming the roof rail rubber downward with a 1/4 thick x 1" wide piece of rubber or closed cell foam to get the seal you'd like.

Be patient and don't compare to modern cars. Designs have gotten much better in the past 40-50 years for car quietness.

lemoldsnut

Actually having run a body shop in a dealership for years we dealt with many power window issues. So, I am very up on adjusting them and how long it takes and clearances. this issue is very similar to the one Joe just posted about replacing shocks. The crappy replacement parts we are getting now make things difficult. I have spent hours adjusting the windows and making sure I have correct voltage and such. I will be upgrading to new style front regulators and motors next spring.

cfair

Totally agree on crappy replacements. Just sad and frustrating when we try to use them.

I was aiming my comment at an amateur like me who might benefit.

Can you post your preferred replacements? If there's something better out there than 50 year old parts, I'd sure like to know about it.