Koda

Hello,

Question for you all. My other old one is a Chevy, and I have a question for its engine, if you can forgive the imposition of the bowtie here in rocket land. (I don't have a good Chevy forum I like, you all are more fun.)

My grandfather bought the 72 Monte new, and he died in 87, and my dad would run it when he came to town. In 02, we got it back on the road, and I daily drove it for the last years in college, then retired it to show car in 04. I drive it every few weeks in the summer, and at least run it monthly in the winter. It DID spend many years being run about twice a year, and the only lasting effects seem to be bad valve guide seals, as it smokes a little on cold start after sitting.

A year or so ago, it picked up a ticking noise. High pitched, rapid, sounds like a sewing machine. Has not changed since it started. Does it at speed and warm idle, not cold idle. I believe it could be a collapsed lifter or one not filling completely, or a worn rocker arm.

Engine is very untouched, and the valve covers may have never been off since new. It needs new valve cover gaskets anyway, so I may pull them and check the rocker arms first for play. Then, I guess it's intake off and look at lifters.

I don't think it hurts the car much as is, and I want to move it to my new place and work on it in more comfort, space, and security before I tear into it. Plus, it's cold here now. I may look at rocker arms sooner just in case, but not tackle intake work till later.

Your thoughts and recommendations are appreciated.

Thanks.

J-(Chicago)

find a tall set of beat up valve covers and cut a big chunk of the center out of them. Then you can see the rockers in motion without dumping oil all over the place.

Could be that you're losing lift on a cam lobe and creating a lot of drivetrain slop. The more you tighten it back up, the more it will eat itself.

I'd start at the top with checking lash and rockers, then checking for bent pushrods, then for bad lifters and cam. You can put a dial indicator right on the lifter to see how much it lifts the lifters. Same with the rocker arms.

droldsmorland

Try adjusting the rocker to valve lash. With the engine warm and running at low idle (you can turn it down off curb idle to 400rpms to reduce oil splash. Or do the cut rocker cover trick or purchase the clip on oil deflectors(my choice)), back off each rocker arm until it clatters. Then tighten it back up until the click stops. Then give it another 1/8-1/4 turn to load the lifter. Do this with all 16 rockers. Get a new set of rubber rocker cover gaskets. Glue the cover side and if needed run a SMALL LIGHT skim of clear RTV on the head side, but you usually dont need the RTV. Snug the cover don't over tighten or you'll warp the cover runner an it will leak. Re-tighten after a period of time as the gasket will settle. Did you rule out exhaust leaks? You may also have a lifter thats sticking internally from all the sitting. A good long run with fresh oil and maybe some marvel or trans fluid added could free it up

Sampson

What an annoying sound that is! Sounds like you are on the right track but I would try adding something like Marvel Mystery Oil to the oil. I have seen trash get in the lifter and not let it close all the way. Follow the directions on the can and change the oil afterwards. Pretty easy to do and might save you from taking things apart.

oldcutlass

The one thing not mentioned is how many miles are on the engine? Marvel or transmission fluid work ok. I like Rislone, it seems to work faster at freeing up sticky lifters. I also add a pint or so of Marvel to the fuel as it cleans up carbon deposites in the combustion chamber.


On adjusting valves I like to use 1/2 turn tighten once it quiets on Chebbies.

Koda

Thanks for advice so far. I'll answer questions.

1. Exhaust is aftermarket Flowmaster Ravens since the original pipes had rusted and was done in 02. Theoretically, it could have developed a small leak and be doing this. I'll check.

2. Current oil is 1 quart Marvel Mystery and 4 quarts Valvoline 10W40. Valvoline 10W40 has been what has been run in it for the past 30 years, at least. I put the Marvel in a year ago and have driven the car around 15 times since, including a couple of 100 mile trips. Car still has good performance.

3. The car is about ready to turn 82k miles. I think the water pump is not original, and I've changed the thermostat, and the dizzy springs/weights got changed to Corvette spec ones by my granddad, but all original other than that and things like belts/hoses/batt etc.

This car is in a tiny garage in the hood of Terre Haute IN. I hate even opening the garage door due to the hoodlums. Once I move into my new place outside Evansville, I'll drive it down and be able to work on it in the evenings in safety and convenience and LIGHT.

oldcutlass

The lifters may be concave and eventually worth a check. I would not run standard car oil in there without an additive as per all the discussions about todays oil.

Koda

Yeah, probably time to change that. If I cooked a cam lobe, it'd be a shame to lose the original cam, but I could always upgrade a little, on the other hand.

tru-blue 442

With a quart of Marvel, your oil is
way to thin. I am suprised you don't have
more than one lifter making noise.
I would do an oil change with your Vavoline
10-40, and see if she responses.
You never said, but I'm guessing a 350?

oldcutlass

It's more likely a 350.

droldsmorland

Early Monti will be a 350 or a 454. No 305 boat anchors until 78-79ish. Any of the three engines will respond to the standard Chevy lash adjustments.

tru-blue 442

Sorry guys, I saw what I posted and meant a 350, oops.
Before I could get my post fixed, I got slammed, lol.

Koda

Yeah, my apologies. It is the 4 barreled 350 option.

The oil was changed to Marvel+oil to resolve the ticking, which has not changed since it was put in. I will go back to 10W40, may change to Valvoline Racing Oil for the zzdp additive.

tru-blue 442

Koda, you may try the 10-30 first
instead of 10-40. With the residual
oil that will be left in the engine, a little
thicker oil could't hurt. With all the Marvel
that was in it, there shouldn't be anything
stuck any longer. The smoking may slow some as well.
I do agree on setting the valve lash though, after you
get the chance to drive it down to it's new spot.

Good luck and let us know how it all goes.

oldcutlass

I like the VR1 for street use oil. A simple valve adjust will correct the ticking. That's why they are adjustable. If the lifter was completely collapsed it be more than a light tick. It takes longer to remove the valve covers than it does to adjust them, it's very easy.

billmerbach

Correct me if I'm wrong but when he does this isn't there a specific order it has to be done

oldcutlass

Nope no particular order, he can adjust one bank and then the other.

Koda

I was unaware one adjusted hydraulic lifters very much. Thanks for the additional advice.

oldcutlass

Not very much with a stock cam, once every 10-15 years maybe.