tgilligan

Looking for some guidance from anyone who's used Edelbrock Performer manifold with a Q-Jet.

I'm keeping my Q-Jet 4BBL and it has a hot air choke with the bi-metal spring. Seeing all sorts of different applications of the Edelbrock Performer and I want to make sure I don't get the wrong one. I've seen 7111, 3711 and 2711 as the model number options but if I'm looking at it correctly, I should be using the 3711 as it's the only one with the ports for the choke stove. I've been told use the 2711 as the 1970 350 is non-EGR but since the 2711 doesn't have the choke stove port, I would just use the block off plate for the EGR on the 3711. Am I correct?

Macadoo

That is correct. And I don't think the 2711s are easy to find and they're definitely more expensive. I just bought a 3711 myself and it came with the EGR block off plate. I also believe the 7111 is a higher RPM manifold and if memory serves, a bit much for the 350. They're also taller and can cause hood clearance issues.
The one thing I did notice about the 3711 is that it has a threaded port of some kind at the back where my stock cast iron manny doesn't have one. Not sure what it's for and assume I'll have to plug it. Maybe someone else can chime in with an answer.

Macadoo

And as long as you're using a Q-jet, you're good. But I read that the EGR port can have clearance issues with Edel carbs and maybe others.

coppercutlass

The rpm 7111 if im right is a good intake., but for a stocker the 3711 is fine . Macadoo I don't know what port but on my 3711 when I ran one the carb mounting bolt holes go straight into the intake atleast on mine. I bought a set screw and put silicone on the threads and no more vac. leak. I made a block off plate from 1/8 th steel plate some intakes I think come with them though. Fwiw the 7111 will not pose hood clearance issues. I run one with a 1 in. spacer and it's no where near hitting the hood.

coppercutlass

I had to run a 1 in. spacer when I ran an edelbrock carb. I also bent the linkage to make it work.

69ishHoliday

Bob Stone of Classic Carbs that restored a Q-Jet for me strongly recommended using an electric choke so I did. I used a 3711 performer and block-off plates, but if I had owned a 2711 it would have looked cleaner (no block-off plates). I'm happy with how my engine is running and since I really didn't intend on my motor seeing high RPM's I'm satisfied. That said the 7111 looks better and would certainly be better with a more aggressive engine build. Just my two cents. - Steven

Macadoo

Copper, the port I'm speaking of is all the way in the very back of the manifold, about 3/4 - an inch in diameter, and is threaded. I'll see if I can get a pic tomorrow.
Good to know about the 7111 and no clearance issues.
tgilligan, you could always get an electric choke if you really wanted to run the 2711, if you felt it was worth the extra effort and expense.

tgilligan

Thanks Macadoo, at least I know I'm looking at the correct one. One other question comes to mind. Did you pull the old vacuum switch and temperature sensor from the stock intake and put it on the Edelbrock or did you buy new? I was doing a quick search on RockAuto and some other parts websites and I can't find the damn things. There's a few fittings on my stock setup that I'll need to move over or find replacements just not sure what they all are. One of them is a square vacuum fitting with a single port, then there's a tree vacuum that has a couple of ports as well as a couple of sensors along with a larger vacuum break in the rear passenger corner....interesting.....

Sorry for the rambling, but as this is all running in my head, I'm already running at 100mph as it is....

oldcutlass

There is a vacuum port back there.

coppercutlass

macadoo I went in the basement to look and if you are talking about the port behind the carb that's for the brake booster. The one towards the #8 cylinder is for a vacuum source tee like for ac , trans etc. the corners are for coolant.

coppercutlass

Tgilligan I would clean up your old vac. fitting and re use them. They don't wear out and as long as they look good I wouldn't hestitate to use them.

Macadoo

That thing in the front is a called a...er...umm.....found it; the distributor vacuum control switch. It has an elecrical hook up on the top and three vac lines coming off of it. Mine was all busted up so I bought one from a dude that sells them here. Most of the other switches I'm replacing because they're in bad shape and I'm adding an electric choke and needed to update one of them.
There has been some debate about the DVCS and whether or not it's needed. I'm erring on the side of caution as it does play a role in vacuum advance.

MDchanic

It's not needed, and your car will run better if it is advanced to where it should be in the first place.

Also, in your specific situation, you essentially can't use it, as you are replacing your cam, and the setup for the new cam is predicated on having one vacuum curve under all circumstances, and not a separate retarded curve for the lower gears.

Ask Mark about that. I'm sure he'll agree.

- Eric

Macadoo

Well then, it looks like I have a DVCS for sale. What do I do, just plug the hole?

Macadoo

This is the back driver's side of the cast iron manifold.

[IMG][/IMG]

This is the back driver's side (same spot) of the Performer.

[IMG][/IMG]

coppercutlass

Just plug it. I got mine plugged.

MDchanic

Yeah, just use pipe thread plugs on both of those holes.
The one in the left rear corner is over the coolant passage - I guess just to give you versatility on hose routing in non-stock applications (with your cam and intake, you are now in the non-stock world...).

-Eric

Macadoo

tgilligan, didn't mean to hijack your thread. But it should be useful information for you as well. Let us know what you end up buying.

Macadoo

tgilligan, I'm afraid with the block off plate and plugged holes my 3711 is going to look a little Frankensteined. If I were to do it again I'd spend the extra $50 on the 2711.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Edelbrock-27...18228f&vxp=mtr

Of course then you have to add on the price of the electric choke and the oil sending unit to hook it up.

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...ke-wiring.html

wcourt3010

this is copied from the Edelbrock website.

Carburetor Recommendations: #2711: Edelbrock Thunder Series AVS or Performer Series carb, 500-650 cfm (see pages 29-40). #3711: OEM 4-bbl.
Installation Notes: Edelbrock Performer Series, Thunder Series AVS and Carter AFB carburetors will not fit #3711. Recommended intake gasket: Fel-Pro #MS96027. For 403 Pontiac Trans Am, use OEM 4-bbl. only (for shaker hood clearance). EGR block-off plate included. Use choke block-off plate #8951 (included). Factory cruise control will not clear EGR valve without linkage alteration. For EGR applications, use stock carb only. HEI will clear this manifold. Manifold height: A-2.50", B-3.90" see A/B Measurements. Port exit dimensions: 1.18" x 1.86".

olds 307 and 403

I always switch to an electric choke much less finicky and much easier to get right. Good part about the 2711 is the wider carb pad and no EGR crossover.

Fun71

Here's a picture of my engine with a 7111 that is "Frankensteined":

EdelbrockPerformerRPM1.jpg 350EngineperfRPMsideviewresized.jpg

Sorry but I don't have any pics of the 3711 with the EGR blockoff plate installed.

Choke coils can be cheap and the oil sending unit is not mandatory.
I got an electric choke coil from the local salvage yard for $7 and connected it to the IGN terminal on the fuse block. Sure, the choke is powered if the key is on (forward) and the engine is not running, but since I never operate my car in that fashion it doesn't matter.

wcourt3010

so can an OEM QJet be used with the 2711 intake?

Macadoo

Yes, as long as you don't need the heat stove for the choke or the EGR port.

Fun71, I dig your valve train holder. That's slick. And that 7111 is going to look badass no matter what you do to it

76olds

Macadoo

My heater hose is on the other side, back passenger side (right side).

Fun71

Yeah, I'm cheap + an engineer so I tend to do things simply and inexpensively.

Macadoo

A cheap engineer? You sound like a good friend to have.

MDchanic

The engineer may be cheap, but somehow the project still always seems to come in over budget.

- Eric

Macadoo

A typical conversation between Mac and his wife. Mac; "Honey, I have this thing I want to do. It should cost around $500". Wife; "Okay, sounds good. So about $1000." Mac; No, I said $500." Wife; "Oh right right....so $1500..."
And darn it if she's not always right.

Beenz

i have the same look on my stock manifold and now have the 2711 and it has this hole too . my heater hose is connected to the same hole, on the passenger side . so a pipe plug will be fine ? should i Teflon tape the plug? what size is that hole 3/4 right ?
thanks

olds 307 and 403

Start new threads, this is another old one. Yes, 3/4" and teflon tape is a good idea since it is under pressure. Just go to the plumbing section at your local hardware store.

Cutlass Fan

If the hole is appropriately 3/4" diameter it'll take a 1/2" npt fitting.