403 timing gear set cover and crank "cup" spacer?
#1
403 timing gear set cover and crank "cup" spacer?
I'm in the middle of putting my rebuilt 403 back together, new cam, new bearings ect...
I am attempting to put a new timing cover on and it seems that the
crank timing gear is sitting out to far. When I place the "cup" spacer on the crank end shaft if won't let the timing cover sit flush.
I have an edelbrock double roller timing gear set. Is there a min/max gap permitted between the back of the crank gear and the block? It looks like there is a 1/4 inch right now and it need to go back further on the crank end shaft to let the "cup" spacer go back further.
Is the double roller gear set an issue on the 403 or does the whole set up need to be "tapped" back further? The chain is on and the cam gear is set and it's very tight.
There are no lifters in the engine so there should be some room to move the cam front to rear right?
I ask this because with the chain on, I will have to tap both cam and crank gears back at the same time due to the tight chain tension?
Thanks in advance,
Gary
I am attempting to put a new timing cover on and it seems that the
crank timing gear is sitting out to far. When I place the "cup" spacer on the crank end shaft if won't let the timing cover sit flush.
I have an edelbrock double roller timing gear set. Is there a min/max gap permitted between the back of the crank gear and the block? It looks like there is a 1/4 inch right now and it need to go back further on the crank end shaft to let the "cup" spacer go back further.
Is the double roller gear set an issue on the 403 or does the whole set up need to be "tapped" back further? The chain is on and the cam gear is set and it's very tight.
There are no lifters in the engine so there should be some room to move the cam front to rear right?
I ask this because with the chain on, I will have to tap both cam and crank gears back at the same time due to the tight chain tension?
Thanks in advance,
Gary
#2
Is the cam flush with the front of the block? Did you mesh the gear on the cam with the gear in the block? The key way should put the crank gear in the right postion. The Cloyes double roller went on my 350 and 403 with no problems.
#3
The crank gear slides all the way back on the crankshaft. It should be relatively loose so it should slide or require minimal tapping. The balancer when installed and torqued pushes the gear there anyway.
#6
Thanks guys,
i figured it out. The guy who
did the cam degree didnt push it
all of the way back with the chain on.
I tapped it some and it popped into
place. My first build and i didnt want
to mess anything up that he had done.
Thanks for replying to such a novice,
stupid question!
Gary
i figured it out. The guy who
did the cam degree didnt push it
all of the way back with the chain on.
I tapped it some and it popped into
place. My first build and i didnt want
to mess anything up that he had done.
Thanks for replying to such a novice,
stupid question!
Gary
#7
Take a picture of the timing gears BEFORE you put the cover on, so that if you later wonder "Was my timing set correctly?" you will be able to look at the picture, instead of disassembling the motor.
- Eric
- Eric
#8
Thanks guys,
i figured it out. The guy who
did the cam degree didnt push it
all of the way back with the chain on.
I tapped it some and it popped into
place. My first build and i didnt want
to mess anything up that he had done.
Thanks for replying to such a novice,
stupid question!
Gary
i figured it out. The guy who
did the cam degree didnt push it
all of the way back with the chain on.
I tapped it some and it popped into
place. My first build and i didnt want
to mess anything up that he had done.
Thanks for replying to such a novice,
stupid question!
Gary
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