Johnny Cage

1984 bucik lesabre 307 olds ccc

Purchased a new carb, installed new carb.

only vaccum line i know to be dammaged is the one going to the choke on passenger side. one that connects to the lines that loop through the intake.

car ran fine for two days. now i find issues with starting. first couple starts doesnt want to turn over. next couple wants to. then it will fire up. but will not mantain an idle until it has been driven for maybe 5 miles. and even then it dies at every stop sign. drives pretty much fine under acceleration. only bogs slightly in being.

when you palce your hand over the primary side of carb. the engine seems to idle like it did a few days ago. there is no tention on that part, it free floats and isnt getting pulled in at all.

should i put a manual choke in? or can this be replaced easily?

and does that line need to be replaced. they just pop out of the intake, and car ran fine for 2 days like that.

if i am not clear please let me know and i shall rephrase.

Thank you in advanced

Johnny Cage

I also still have the old core

Lady72nRob71

Those lines going into the manifold stove are supposed to just pop out, but usually they are rusted in. Sometimes it will require taking the stove out of the manifold and replacing the whole thing.
There should be a spring inside the choke housing that engages the choke plate until the air being drawn in is hot enough to expant the bimetallic coil and release the choke.
Sounds like that spring is not set right? When cold, the choke plate should try to close...
Did you open the choke housing? Pics of it might be helpful...

Johnny Cage

i have not opened the housing. I will do so upoun return from work in about 11hrs. The choke did have tention on it a couples days ago. but yesterday i noticed it had a ton of slack. thanks for a starting point

joe_padavano

Why not put in a hand-crank starter while you're at it.

Sorry, but it seems like the first reaction from most folks is to start ripping parts off when things don't work. A far better (and more cost effective) solution is to perform some real troubleshooting.

Your car has the CCC system that controls the primary side mixture ratio on the car as well as the timing. When you rebuild or replace the carb on these cars you MUST follow the adjustment procedure in the factory service manual exactly to get the car to run right. If you are doing this yourself, spend the time to fully understand this process. If you are having a shop do the work, find one who really understands this - most do not and won't take the time to do it right. The CCC system works great once it's adjusted properly, but that takes a little time and patience.

Also, there are about seven miles of vacuum hoses on this motor and a hole or crack in any one of them can cause the car to run poorly. Also, the choke plate on the carb must be closed when the engine is cold and open when it's warm. This is a mechanical setting (based on a bimetallic spring in the choke housing) that is unrelated to the computer control. If there's no tension when cold, the choke is not adjusted properly.

Johnny Cage

it worked well for 2 days. now not so much. I will go and open the choke housing when i get home. what will i look for once inside?

for the adjustment under that housing. what do counter clockwise and clockwise turning of that screw on the passenger side to the left of the air/fuel mixture screws do?

and should i mess with the fast idle? or leave alone?

Thank you for letting me know the manual choke is not an opion

Johnny Cage

anyone know the diameter of the lines going into the manifold stove. i am goin to replace this today.

also the vacuum line going to the air cleaner does not connect to anything. where might that connect to? goes in, but no line coming out

joe_padavano

The two hard lines that slip into the choke stove on the intake are swaged down at the ends, so if you are planning on bending your own from hard lines, you won't be able to get the right diameter on the manifold ends. Repros are available, and any Olds Qjet intake should be a donor.

The air cleaner has a vacuum actuated flapper in the snorkel that is controlled by a thermostatic vacuum switch in the air cleaner itself. There should be one vacuum line from the flapper diaphragm to the switch on the underside of the air cleaner then a second vacuum line from the switch to a manifold vacuum source.

Johnny Cage

would that line goin in to the stove. cause my symptoms. I made a 3/16th line into a rubber line. into the original line.

i have tension back on the primary. need a two foot screw driver to try to adjust

Johnny Cage

Any link to a site that sells this intake stove vacuum line assembly would be very very very helpful please

Johnny Cage

can i bypass this line and do a direct connection. just bypass the manifold stove lines??

Johnny Cage

i sealed the stove top line with high temp sealant. Now i am having difficulty getting to the screw which adjusts the choke. any suggestions. Im trying to locate a 2foot philips screw driver at the moment

Johnny Cage

ok. I have vaccum lines fixed. I adusted the choke so that it will idle and run, not die when i break.

It now has a slight lurch at first acceleration. shutters and catches it self then smooths out. at highway speeds it will drive fine for a bit and then shutter intermittenly.

The idle is a little shake at times but much better.

Is my choke still getting held up maybe?

or should i try to adjust the air/fuel mixture screws to get it to run as best as i can get

Thank you