Factory 2bbl settings for 350
July 7th, 2012, 08:15 AM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 43
Factory 2bbl settings for 350
whats up everybody, so Im having a hell of a time trying to get my factory settings right on my carb. sometimes i shut it off and she keeps on hiccuping badly until she just gives out and cuts off. sometimes it can last for as much as 5 seconds before it cuts off. makes it look like a real piece of **** everytime i pull up somewhere lol Ive messed with all 4 screws on the carb trying to get this right. I know i have a choke screw on the pass side of the carb. air and fuel screws are in front and my idle screw is on the driver side of the carb. The car is consumiing a lot of gas and Im just trying to get these settings right before i throw an E-brock 600 on it. any help is greatly appreciated. thanks in advance!
July 7th, 2012, 08:56 AM
#2
Administrator
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Poteau, Ok
Posts: 40,553
A lot of times I've found that the problems you describe are not carb issues, but ignition. After you get your setting on the carb set for a smooth idle, at about 600 rpm in drive. Go back and check your dwell for 30*, no more no less if you have points, set your timing 10-12*btdc with vacuum advance disconnected, higher with an HEI, or 34* @ 3000 rpm. Then reset your carb again. That should correct it!
July 7th, 2012, 09:21 AM
#3
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 43
good info. ill have to have someone help me out on that because i havent got any experience yet in timing. I do understand that dwell (run time) Im pretty sure i have a point system as well so ill use this info with whoever can help me out to get it right. If i upgrade to the E-brock 600 whats the best 600 to pick? I heard the Electric choke is trouble free. Im basically looking for something that can give me reliability and better effieciency because this is my daily driver and i go to school. I plan on running stock intake and heads. later on down the line all i want to do is port the stock heads and upgrade the intake manifold and throw a small cam. I also have long tube headers and full exhaust that will go on the car as well. not looking for a HP monster just mainly torque. I put my car on the dyno as it sits now, and with the carb not tuned correctly, an exhaust leak on the pass. exh. manifold, and single exit exhaust, it put out 130hp with 223 ft lbs of TQ lol...
July 7th, 2012, 09:37 AM
#4
Administrator
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Poteau, Ok
Posts: 40,553
Get 1 with an electric choke. I've heard go things on the AVS - series.
To set your dwell and rpm, you basically need what is call a tach and dwell meter. To set timing you need an adjustable timing light. You may be able to borrow/ rent these from a local auto parts store. Most people use a vacuum gauge to set their air/fuel mix, I use a tach. Just remember set the dwell first, it effects timing, setting timing does not effect dwell.
To set your dwell and rpm, you basically need what is call a tach and dwell meter. To set timing you need an adjustable timing light. You may be able to borrow/ rent these from a local auto parts store. Most people use a vacuum gauge to set their air/fuel mix, I use a tach. Just remember set the dwell first, it effects timing, setting timing does not effect dwell.
July 7th, 2012, 09:42 AM
#5
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 43
i actually had a buddy use a vacuum gauge on my car in school and the needle was at around 25 psi right in the green. i noticed the car lost a little power and started hiccuping after that was done. maybe my problem is in my timing AND air/fuel. I just wanna get this right. Does a 175 miles to a full tank sound right to anybody?
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
