jpc647

There seems to be oil leaking out of the grommet where my PCV valve sits on the driver side valve cover. The car has aftermarket M/T Valve Covers.

I've tried removing the grommet to replace it, but I can't seem to get it out. Are they meant to be removed from underneath ( IE remove the valve cover)

I attached a picture. I have another grommet, and it looks like it should jut pop out, but it doesn't.

105_0072.jpg

Also, is there supposed to be a "plate" underneath it that would prevent oil from splashing up into the PCV valve? I have a set of OEM valve covers and they appear to have a splash guard of sorts. After looking in where this PCV valve is, I don't see one.

MDchanic

If the grommet is old, you pretty much have to destroy it to get it out - they just get too stiff.

As for the baffle: factory covers have one, some aftermarket ones do not. If you ask me, a baffle is a god idea, but I guess Mickey had a different idea.

You best bet is to clean the surfaces really well and use some RTV or other sealant of your choice.

- Eric

Lady72nRob71

Leaks are usually caused by a slight shrinkage as the moisture in the rubber goes away.
They come out, but mostly in pieces. They get too brittle.
I found it best to break them up to avoid gouging or bending the valve covers.

Use soapy water to aid in the insertion of the new one.
Rockauto has these.

Allan R

The grommet should just pull out. If it doesn't want to come out try twisting it as you pull up. Take a look at your replacement grommet. It will have a recessed ring that fits into the VC. Your leak could be a result of the rubber hardening. I've found that it comes out easier on a warm engine than a cold one. You do NOT have to take of the VCs to remove the grommet.

I wouldn't worry about the splash plate. It's not like theres a river of oil coming up the valve. The oil follows a downward flow pattern mostly so it wont cause a problem with the PCV. If your new grommet still leaks, you could put a small bead of RTV around the seat of the grommet.

jpc647

At the risk of sounding ignorant, are you sure about the splash guard. My old DD, a 1988 Ford Thunderbird with a 5.0, didn't have a splash guard on the intake below the PCV valve and the PCV valve used to suck quite a bit of oil into the tube and up to the plenum.

Maybe it's a different setup, I just wanted to ask. Would the breather on the other side reduce the pressure and further prevent the oil from coming up? Could this be a sign the motor is on "borrowed time"?

Thanks for the advice everyone. The season is probably over here in Mass, as it's supposed to snow n the next coming days, which means salt, but I'll replace it and try to see if it still leaks.

Allan R

No, I'm not 100% about the lack of splash guard, I'd check with MT and ask them why they don't have one though. Maybe they have a reason?

Aside from the grommet leak, have you noticed any adverse effects of the MT covers? How would you plan to install the baffle if you decided it was necessary? This is one of the reasons I stay with stock parts - they work the way Olds wanted them to.

tonycpe

I have the same valve covers that i bought new . Originally there was no hole in either cover for breather or pvc, but there were knockouts, which means that when they were cast there was a thinner or srcibe line that allow you to knock out the area for the factory grommets. I hope I am explaining this OK.

Anyway ,you would have the proper whole but the edges would be a little rough and most people would not file the edge and that would make it difficult to install or remove the grommet. Also don't forget that the aluminum is thicker than the stock steel cover and the grommet slot is not larger than stock .

He may have glued the old one on , so if you are sure you have the right size you don't have to worry about being rough when you take the old one off. And there are 2 sizes of the "D" shapped gommet for the PVC

And my M/T finned aluminum valve covers came with the provisions to mount the deflection plate under the pvc on the inside of the cover.
And it is even more of a pain to install the new one because you get get the underside lipof the grommet to set on the lip.
You can use the baffle with stock rockers but will have contact if you are using after market roller rockers

coltsneckbob

Just use a pair of pliers to squeeze and spin it. It will come out.

Lady72nRob71

In pieces!
I crunched mine with pliers and it broke apart - it was brittle. Did not damage the covers at all..

jpc647

I might not need a splash guard. When power comes back, I'll try to contact M/T. I haven't noticed any other adverse effects other than the stupid grommet leaking oil onto my manifold. They are getting old, and the black coating is starting to flake. I have an original set of covers and such, but I don't have a factory air cleaner cover or the bracket that connects the heat tube to the manifold. The stupid piece of metal is expensive from fusick and year one, which is the main reason I haven't swapped anything. Aftermarket stuff is exorbitantly expensive.

If I end up needing the plate, I'll either have to find one, or make one out of sheet metal, and take the valve cover off and find a way to attach it. On the highway it leaks enough to smell sometimes. Not sure if there are other oil leaks or not, hard to tell with it all pumping out of the valve cover.

Thank you for the information. How can I tell which size I need for the grommet? Do you have instructions left from the deflection plate install? Can you scan them in and email them or post them? Maybe it has dimensions and such and I can make my own.

Lady72nRob71

I ordered the Fusick one for the PCV valve and it was a perfect fit. It was tight, but it should be. I used some soapy water to help get it to slide home.
The filter grommet should have the 1" hole in it. Fusick has this one also.
I bought the airtex version from rockauto and I had to cut the groove deeper.
I eventually got it to fit.

I do not know anything about the baffels (other than they were in the covers of my '72).

jpc647

Do you have the same covers, or factory flat style? have a set of factory correct ones, I could probably remove the plate from them and put them on these. Or use it as a template to make another one, or two.

Lady72nRob71

I have the regular stock stamped covers. Looks like the baffels are tack welded in, so removing them could be challenging.

Rickman48

Just make sure you get ALL the pieces out, if you leave the covers on.
Clogging the oil return passage can be a real PIA to clear, not to mention the havoc it can cause!

droptopron

If you fabricate a baffle make sure to use thread lock on it. You don't want that falling off & into the rocker area.

Lady72nRob71

I had mud in mine. Not sure HOW it drained....

Rickman48

I worked on a '65 442 that was clogged solid with shattered umbrella valve seals!
3 min. after start-up, it'd smoke the left side like a piston broke!!
New seals, on a air car, motor installed, isn't a fun job, but fixed the problem!
Had to use a coathanger and air pressure to do the unclogging.

Allan R

jpc647
Did you get the grommet out ok? I agree with Rob about the Fusick replacement. My grommets were getting 'hard' from age and were replaced. I replaced them on the VC and the Air cleaner. The fitment on the aftermarkets from Fusick was just fine and made a good seal. Hope your VC baffle plate works out.

jpc647

I did buy a replacement grommet. I haven't removed the old one yet. I've called M/T but they claim they've only ever made tires and wheels.

Who the hell made these covers!? Everyone and their mother seems to have them..

oldcutlass

Holley, sells em for BBC and SBC!