point gap spec for 72 350
October 23rd, 2011, 09:38 AM
#2
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Location: Northeast Connecticut
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.016 (sixteen thousands)(from my old memory bank) 30 degree dwell... If you are using points that have been manufactured in China, I would reset the points every 2500 miles. I have found that the rubbing block on these "less than perfect" replacements have a soft rubbing block which will close the gap on you, eventually leaving you on the side of the road wondering why there is no spark.
Last edited by Junkman; October 23rd, 2011 at 09:45 AM. Reason: add and correct
October 23rd, 2011, 09:51 AM
#4
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Location: Northeast Connecticut
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After you set the points, check the timing, and adjust. Then recheck your point setting. Timing and point dwell have an intertwined relationship. Sometimes it takes a little tweaking to get both exact.
October 23rd, 2011, 11:23 AM
#5
Connoisseur d'Junque
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: The Hudson Valley
Posts: 21,183
You can't find it because there is no point gap spec for 1972.
By 1972, they only specified dwell angle, which is 30° in all GM V8s.
Dwell angle is a far more accurate way to set the points, and far easier to set as well.
From the 1972 Chassis Service Manual:
And Junkman is right - recheck those points more often than you think you should - the cheap new ones wear very quickly and retard your timing as they do.
Not exactly.
Your point gap will affect your timing, but your timing will not affect your point gap.
If you set the dwell, you need to recheck the timing, but if you set the timing, the dwell will not be affected.
- Eric
By 1972, they only specified dwell angle, which is 30° in all GM V8s.
Dwell angle is a far more accurate way to set the points, and far easier to set as well.
From the 1972 Chassis Service Manual:
And Junkman is right - recheck those points more often than you think you should - the cheap new ones wear very quickly and retard your timing as they do.
Your point gap will affect your timing, but your timing will not affect your point gap.
If you set the dwell, you need to recheck the timing, but if you set the timing, the dwell will not be affected.
- Eric
October 23rd, 2011, 12:09 PM
#6
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Location: Rowlett, TX
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If you don't have a dwell meter, 16 thousanths is correct. No doubt it is not as accurate as a dwell meter. I have heard stories of using a matchbook cover in emergencies but have never had to do it. Besides, matchbook covers are hard to find these days.
January 15th, 2018, 09:36 PM
#11
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Apopka, FL
Posts: 4,668
I worked at a very busy service station in the seventies and eighties .
I did tune-ups on literally thousands of GM 57-74 V-8 cars .
I never adjusted GM point "gaps " .
The points are supposed to be adjusted from the factory . At least close enough to get the engine running .
We would simply push them all the way into place , tighten the screws , and put the rotor and cap on .
A dwell meter was already connected to the coil . And I would crank the engine and adjust the dwell through the "window" in the cap .
Timing was adjusted , then the carb , and it was "out the door " .
I did tune-ups on literally thousands of GM 57-74 V-8 cars .
I never adjusted GM point "gaps " .
The points are supposed to be adjusted from the factory . At least close enough to get the engine running .
We would simply push them all the way into place , tighten the screws , and put the rotor and cap on .
A dwell meter was already connected to the coil . And I would crank the engine and adjust the dwell through the "window" in the cap .
Timing was adjusted , then the carb , and it was "out the door " .
January 16th, 2018, 06:12 PM
#13
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Location: Northeast Connecticut
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If I had one that was "out of adjustment" after installing the new points, I would put the Alan wrench into the point adjustment, and have an assistant crank the car while I made the "adjustment". Once it was running, I would use the dwell meter to adjust them to spec.
January 16th, 2018, 06:17 PM
#14
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Charlie is correct in that you could just about always stick the points in right out of the box and the car would start. I would love to have external adjustment points on my 54. I think Olds went to external adjustment in 56. If I come across a 56 distributor at a bargain, I will be all over it.
January 16th, 2018, 08:44 PM
#15
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Location: Apopka, FL
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Charlie is correct in that you could just about always stick the points in right out of the box and the car would start. I would love to have external adjustment points on my 54. I think Olds went to external adjustment in 56. If I come across a 56 distributor at a bargain, I will be all over it.
January 16th, 2018, 09:57 PM
#17
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Location: Brooklyn, NY
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Here's another tip. Buy spare points and condenser and a screwdriver. Have it adjusted and put it in your glove box. I had a 74 Cutlass Supreme and my points burnt out in the middle of the highway. Its a good thing I had a spare points in my glove box. I was in and out of highway in no time.
January 16th, 2018, 11:40 PM
#18
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Location: So. Ca.
Posts: 651
I would not put anything but Accell points in my distributor, excellent quality, had them to 6000 rpm, zero problems. Unfortunately they are pricey.
Points only #110128, Kit # 8104
PS, make sure there is no side to side play in your distributor shaft, this will cause incorrect point activation. Good luck with your tune up.
Points only #110128, Kit # 8104
PS, make sure there is no side to side play in your distributor shaft, this will cause incorrect point activation. Good luck with your tune up.
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