Engine Temp - Operating Range
November 19th, 2018, 03:14 PM
#1
Engine Temp - Operating Range
Hi All,
It's about 45 degrees here in Jersey and I took the car for a drive to test out some headlight work that I did. During the summer months, the temp never got past 210 although tonight it creeped to 215-220 in traffic but came back down to 200-210 during driving.
As far as components are concerned, it's an aluminum 3-core radiator with factory fan shroud and clutch fan. There are no holes in the shroud and everything else seems to be in working order. Thermostat is a Stant 195 and I'm using an AutoMeter aftermarket gauge cluster to read the temp. There is a Comp Cams XE268 cam with forged pistons, Comp Cams adjustable valve train, Edelbrock manifold with a Holley 750 DP on top. Again, it runs smooth and never went past 210 in the summer and tonight was the first 'cold' night I took the car out and noticed the temp at 215-220 at a light but it dropped back to 200-210 while driving.
Is this a normal temp range for this type of setup?
It's about 45 degrees here in Jersey and I took the car for a drive to test out some headlight work that I did. During the summer months, the temp never got past 210 although tonight it creeped to 215-220 in traffic but came back down to 200-210 during driving.
As far as components are concerned, it's an aluminum 3-core radiator with factory fan shroud and clutch fan. There are no holes in the shroud and everything else seems to be in working order. Thermostat is a Stant 195 and I'm using an AutoMeter aftermarket gauge cluster to read the temp. There is a Comp Cams XE268 cam with forged pistons, Comp Cams adjustable valve train, Edelbrock manifold with a Holley 750 DP on top. Again, it runs smooth and never went past 210 in the summer and tonight was the first 'cold' night I took the car out and noticed the temp at 215-220 at a light but it dropped back to 200-210 while driving.
Is this a normal temp range for this type of setup?
November 19th, 2018, 03:26 PM
#2
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 2,257
My 442 has a 2 core aluminum radiator, factory shroud and fan, fan clutch, and a 180 degree high flow thermostat.
I run a 70/30 mix of water and antifreeze.
It never gets above 180 degrees, no matter how hot or cold it gets.
I run a 70/30 mix of water and antifreeze.
It never gets above 180 degrees, no matter how hot or cold it gets.
November 19th, 2018, 04:55 PM
#3
Administrator
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Poteau, Ok
Posts: 40,515
That would be near normal for a 195* thermostat. Remember your thermostat starts to open at 195*. When the outside air temp is hot the thermostat reaches temp and stays open. When its cold out it cycles open and close to maintain the minimum operating temp of 195.
November 19th, 2018, 05:15 PM
#4
I walked out to the garage after it cooled down from the ride and wanted to see about the fan clutch and by spinning the fan blade while engine is off and cold, I get 1 full revolution, maybe a bit more. Is that too much play and not enough resistance indicating a bad clutch?
November 20th, 2018, 10:30 AM
#6
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 513
your temps are in the ballpark..
Per Cliff of Cliff's High Performance these GM cars were designed to work best at 200F degrees hence the 195F thermostat..
Make sure your guage is calibrated.. Get a infrared temp gun to check.. best $20 you'll ever spend at Harbor Feight..
for lots of discussion a wealth of information see : https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...take-heat.html
Fred
Per Cliff of Cliff's High Performance these GM cars were designed to work best at 200F degrees hence the 195F thermostat..
Make sure your guage is calibrated.. Get a infrared temp gun to check.. best $20 you'll ever spend at Harbor Feight..
for lots of discussion a wealth of information see : https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...take-heat.html
Fred
November 20th, 2018, 05:08 PM
#7
your temps are in the ballpark..
Per Cliff of Cliff's High Performance these GM cars were designed to work best at 200F degrees hence the 195F thermostat..
Make sure your guage is calibrated.. Get a infrared temp gun to check.. best $20 you'll ever spend at Harbor Feight..
for lots of discussion a wealth of information see : https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...take-heat.html
Fred
Per Cliff of Cliff's High Performance these GM cars were designed to work best at 200F degrees hence the 195F thermostat..
Make sure your guage is calibrated.. Get a infrared temp gun to check.. best $20 you'll ever spend at Harbor Feight..
for lots of discussion a wealth of information see : https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...take-heat.html
Fred
November 21st, 2018, 03:33 AM
#8
Registered User
Join Date: May 2009
Location: S.E. Louisiana, so far still in U.S.A.
Posts: 1,613
Probably near the sensor or thermostat if you want to confirm the gauge, but the surface of the manifold may differ some from the coolant. Also you may want to confirm the accuracy of the infrared temperature gun. Be sure that your thermostat is opening when it should. A sluggish thermostat would raise the engine's operating temperature. Also, if the cooling system has sufficient capacity, choosing a lower rated thermostat would likely lower the operating temperature. When the ambient is only 45F it seems like the engine shouldn't be so high.
November 21st, 2018, 04:32 AM
#9
'87 Delta 88 Royale
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Margate, England
Posts: 2,513
Probably near the sensor or thermostat if you want to confirm the gauge, but the surface of the manifold may differ some from the coolant. Also you may want to confirm the accuracy of the infrared temperature gun. Be sure that your thermostat is opening when it should. A sluggish thermostat would raise the engine's operating temperature. Also, if the cooling system has sufficient capacity, choosing a lower rated thermostat would likely lower the operating temperature. When the ambient is only 45F it seems like the engine shouldn't be so high.
Nothing the OP has posted indicates his cooling system has anything wrong with it. Why would he want to lower the operating temperature if it is doing what it's supposed to be doing and running at its designed temperature?.
Roger.
November 21st, 2018, 06:19 AM
#10
Registered User
Join Date: May 2009
Location: S.E. Louisiana, so far still in U.S.A.
Posts: 1,613
The whole point of a thermostat is to maintain the engine at a given temperature regardless of ambient temperature.
Nothing the OP has posted indicates his cooling system has anything wrong with it. Why would he want to lower the operating temperature if it is doing what it's supposed to be doing and running at its designed temperature?.
Roger.
Nothing the OP has posted indicates his cooling system has anything wrong with it. Why would he want to lower the operating temperature if it is doing what it's supposed to be doing and running at its designed temperature?.
Roger.
November 21st, 2018, 06:51 AM
#11
Administrator
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Poteau, Ok
Posts: 40,515
Per Stant, read below… Again with a 195* thermostat there is nothing wrong those temps.
http://www.stant.com/index.php/engli...rmostats/faqs/
How does a thermostat work?
"Usually located within a metal or plastic housing where the upper radiator hose connects to the engine, most of today’s thermostats utilize the "reverse poppet" design, which opens against the flow of the coolant. Thermostats have a wax filled copper housing or cup called a "heat motor" that pushes the thermostat open against spring pressure.
As the engine's coolant warms up, the increase in heat causes the wax to melt and expand. The wax pushes against a piston inside a rubber boot. This forces the piston outward to open the thermostat. Within 3 or 4 degrees F. of the thermostat preset/rated temperature which is usually marked on the thermostat, the thermostat begins to unseat so coolant can start to circulate between the engine and radiator. It continues to open until engine cooling requirements are satisfied. It is fully open about 15-20 degrees above its rated temperature. If the temperature of the circulating coolant begins to drop, the wax element contracts, allowing spring tension to close the thermostat, thus decreasing coolant flow through the radiator. "
http://www.stant.com/index.php/engli...rmostats/faqs/
How does a thermostat work?
"Usually located within a metal or plastic housing where the upper radiator hose connects to the engine, most of today’s thermostats utilize the "reverse poppet" design, which opens against the flow of the coolant. Thermostats have a wax filled copper housing or cup called a "heat motor" that pushes the thermostat open against spring pressure.
As the engine's coolant warms up, the increase in heat causes the wax to melt and expand. The wax pushes against a piston inside a rubber boot. This forces the piston outward to open the thermostat. Within 3 or 4 degrees F. of the thermostat preset/rated temperature which is usually marked on the thermostat, the thermostat begins to unseat so coolant can start to circulate between the engine and radiator. It continues to open until engine cooling requirements are satisfied. It is fully open about 15-20 degrees above its rated temperature. If the temperature of the circulating coolant begins to drop, the wax element contracts, allowing spring tension to close the thermostat, thus decreasing coolant flow through the radiator. "
November 22nd, 2018, 04:56 AM
#12
Out of Line, Everytime😉
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Melville, Saskatchewan
Posts: 8,902
I would personally try a Robert Shaw 180 thermostat, 220 is getting too warm for my liking. What brand 3 core rad? I put a Champion 3 core aluminum rad in my 88 Cutlass, ran between 195 and 210 with a 160 thermostat, was not impressed. It could be the clutch is getting weak, since it is warming up at idle.
Last edited by olds 307 and 403; November 22nd, 2018 at 04:59 AM.
December 4th, 2018, 04:04 PM
#13
Per Stant, read below… Again with a 195* thermostat there is nothing wrong those temps.
http://www.stant.com/index.php/engli...rmostats/faqs/
How does a thermostat work?
"Usually located within a metal or plastic housing where the upper radiator hose connects to the engine, most of today’s thermostats utilize the "reverse poppet" design, which opens against the flow of the coolant. Thermostats have a wax filled copper housing or cup called a "heat motor" that pushes the thermostat open against spring pressure.
As the engine's coolant warms up, the increase in heat causes the wax to melt and expand. The wax pushes against a piston inside a rubber boot. This forces the piston outward to open the thermostat. Within 3 or 4 degrees F. of the thermostat preset/rated temperature which is usually marked on the thermostat, the thermostat begins to unseat so coolant can start to circulate between the engine and radiator. It continues to open until engine cooling requirements are satisfied. It is fully open about 15-20 degrees above its rated temperature. If the temperature of the circulating coolant begins to drop, the wax element contracts, allowing spring tension to close the thermostat, thus decreasing coolant flow through the radiator. "
http://www.stant.com/index.php/engli...rmostats/faqs/
How does a thermostat work?
"Usually located within a metal or plastic housing where the upper radiator hose connects to the engine, most of today’s thermostats utilize the "reverse poppet" design, which opens against the flow of the coolant. Thermostats have a wax filled copper housing or cup called a "heat motor" that pushes the thermostat open against spring pressure.
As the engine's coolant warms up, the increase in heat causes the wax to melt and expand. The wax pushes against a piston inside a rubber boot. This forces the piston outward to open the thermostat. Within 3 or 4 degrees F. of the thermostat preset/rated temperature which is usually marked on the thermostat, the thermostat begins to unseat so coolant can start to circulate between the engine and radiator. It continues to open until engine cooling requirements are satisfied. It is fully open about 15-20 degrees above its rated temperature. If the temperature of the circulating coolant begins to drop, the wax element contracts, allowing spring tension to close the thermostat, thus decreasing coolant flow through the radiator. "
December 4th, 2018, 08:37 PM
#15
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Norfolk, Va
Posts: 1,361
Keep in mind that the fan clutch engages when it gets hot. The clutch is right out front where it is in the cold air so if the outside temp is cool, it will not be engaged and not be pulling a lot of air through the radiator at a stop light.
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