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I have a 307 Olds with a double timing chain on it. I put a 2 piece timing plate on it from Rocket Olds. It scraped the oil slinger due to the oil seal hole sitting so far from the plate and put metal shavings in my oil pan. I know the oil slinger should be used but I want to use the 2 piece plate. All advice is welcomed. This is the lip of the oil seal The oil slinger was rubbing up against the chain
Are the dimensions the same as the stock timing cover? It may be contacting the slinger and causing it to rub against the timing chain. Many us have used various brands of double roller timing chains without rubbing issues using the stock cover.
Just call John @ RR. They're good people.
The oil slinger is a good-to-have. It limits the amount of oil that hits the seal, thereby helping reduce any leaks. "slinger" is a hold-over from generations past. In our engines it's a cover - not a slinger.
Looks like RR built one heck of a mount for the seal which looks like it shrouds the seal, so does the same thing.
Ergo no need to use the slinger when using RR's cover.
Looks like RR built one heck of a mount for the seal which looks like it shrouds the seal, so does the same thing.
Ergo no need to use the slinger when using RR's cover.
Not true. Oil on the crank snout will migrate towards the seal via capillary action. When that flow hits the slinger, it gets, er, SLUNG outward, away from the seal. The excessively deep housing on that timing cover does not have that effect. Fix the cover, run the slinger. Frankly, I'm not sure why you need an expensive, thick, machined aluminum timing cover anyway. There are a lot of two piece stamped steel Olds timing covers that work just fine.
Just call John @ RR. They're good people.
The oil slinger is a good-to-have. It limits the amount of oil that hits the seal, thereby helping reduce any leaks. "slinger" is a hold-over from generations past. In our engines it's a cover - not a slinger.
Looks like RR built one heck of a mount for the seal which looks like it shrouds the seal, so does the same thing.
Ergo no need to use the slinger when using RR's cover.
I will call John tomorrow while I'm at work. Thanks
Not true. Oil on the crank snout will migrate towards the seal via capillary action. When that flow hits the slinger, it gets, er, SLUNG outward, away from the seal. The excessively deep housing on that timing cover does not have that effect. Fix the cover, run the slinger. Frankly, I'm not sure why you need an expensive, thick, machined aluminum timing cover anyway. There are a lot of two piece stamped steel Olds timing covers that work just fine.
I had an 2 piece from Mondello when they were selling it but years after I got it out my pops garage, the bottom was bent. I like this one cause of the look but I will save it for my 455
Not true. Oil on the crank snout will migrate towards the seal via capillary action. When that flow hits the slinger, it gets, er, SLUNG outward, away from the seal. The excessively deep housing on that timing cover does not have that effect.
....... really? The slinger is smooshed right up against the timing gear which is smooshed right up against the ledge on the crank which has a, what, 1/8" gap from the #1 main? Not a lot of room for oil to be on the crank in that area. And if the oil's on the crank between the slinger and the seal then, well, horse and barn door and all that.
November 4th, 2018, 03:48 PM
