Align hone after replacing main bolts?

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Old October 7th, 2018, 05:25 PM
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Align hone after replacing main bolts?

I noticed a small chip in the threads of one of my main bolts. It's small and there's no other obvious damage besides that but I'd still like to replace them to be safe. Can I replace the bolts with new ones without getting the block align honed? The engine is close to stock but with forged flat pistons.
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Old October 7th, 2018, 06:47 PM
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No problem at all.

The only time it is really needed is when you switch to main studs instead of bolts because the studs typically clamo the cap better and can distort it some.
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Old October 8th, 2018, 10:22 AM
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2x on what BillK said. But if the engine is apart, and you know a reputable machine shop. It wouldn't hurt to have the line hone checked. Things get out of alignment over time. Also factory tolerances can be less than desirable. A high cycled block with everything trued up is a very good starting point.
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Old October 8th, 2018, 01:18 PM
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Originally Posted by dragline
2x on what BillK said. But if the engine is apart, and you know a reputable machine shop. It wouldn't hurt to have the line hone checked. Things get out of alignment over time. Also factory tolerances can be less than desirable. A high cycled block with everything trued up is a very good starting point.
X2 as long as your replacing them with stock bolts again. If you’re adding ARP’s then I think you’ll find the main saddle dimensions will most likely change.
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Old October 8th, 2018, 06:54 PM
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Does anyone know where to get stock bolts or at least have the original part number? I can't find anything other than ARP.
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Old October 10th, 2018, 07:44 AM
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I cannot find anything but the ARP bolts. Would it be enough to check for alignment with a straight edge and feeler gauge with the caps on?
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Old October 10th, 2018, 08:22 AM
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Just from personal experience, I built a 403. I had it aline honed. I had it together and at the last moment I decided to put a J&S halo girdle on it. As rumor has it, when you turn the 403 over on the engine stand, the crankshaft might fall out. I talked to Jim at J&S, I sent him my main caps and he milled them and suggested I get ARP main studs from Dick Miller, which I did. I put it together. I had a shifter problem and I saw the tack at 6,700 rpms, still sends shivers thinking about. No problems. Maybe I was lucky. By the way, this was not a "solid main webs" 403.
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Old October 11th, 2018, 06:29 AM
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Do you remember the part number for the main studs?
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Old October 11th, 2018, 06:45 AM
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Originally Posted by mother$hip89
I cannot find anything but the ARP bolts. Would it be enough to check for alignment with a straight edge and feeler gauge with the caps on?
No. The main problem is each bore distorting into an egg shape because the cap gets squished by the bolts/studs.
Post a parts wanted ad, someone can find something. Is this a BBO or SBO? I think I have three sets for SBO scattered in boxes.
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Old November 8th, 2018, 08:52 PM
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I got the main bores checked at the machine shop and they came out good with the ARP bolts, didn't need to align hone.
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Old November 8th, 2018, 11:55 PM
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Originally Posted by mother$hip89
I got the main bores checked at the machine shop and they came out good with the ARP bolts, didn't need to align hone.
Define “good” if you would please cuz I’ve never had that happen before.
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Old November 9th, 2018, 11:55 AM
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Good as in the guy at the shop checked the bores and said the alignment and the bores themselves were all within spec.
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Old November 9th, 2018, 02:57 PM
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The ARP main studs are the same for a SB Chevy and an Olds 455.

That is what my shop used on my build. I did align hone it.
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