Vacuum/Timing

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Old September 10th, 2018, 01:58 PM
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Thank you sir. I got it plugged
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Old September 16th, 2018, 03:12 PM
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Update

I’m still around 15” of vacuum. At idle it looks like about 12 degrees. It isn’t a very smooth idle and I ordered a carb rebuild kit. I’ve sprayed carb cleaner everywhere looking for a leak but I’m coming up empty.
Back of my mind keeps telling me there’s something wrong with the brake booster; I say that because I have to apply a lot of pressure. I’ve blown through the vacuum piece when removed and it does pass air the correct way. Looking for more ideas as to why the vacuum numbers are low
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Old September 16th, 2018, 03:44 PM
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If you suspect the booster, pull the vacuum line, plug it so there's no engine vacuum leak, then see if you still have the low vacuum.
Alternately, you can pinch the rubber line shut with the proper pliers to get the same effect.
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Old September 16th, 2018, 04:47 PM
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While the timing is set a bit low, I prefer around 15-16 to start, and leave vacuum advance plugged until I get it right. You need to limit vacuum advance so its running no more than 55*.
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Old September 16th, 2018, 08:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Fun71
If you suspect the booster, pull the vacuum line, plug it so there's no engine vacuum leak, then see if you still have the low vacuum.
Alternately, you can pinch the rubber line shut with the proper pliers to get the same effect.
Ok so while vacuum advance is unplugged, I removed the hose from the booster and the vacuum increased, idle increased and the engine ran smoother. If I plug the hose with my thumb the engine dies.






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Old September 16th, 2018, 09:37 PM
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Is that normal?
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Old September 17th, 2018, 04:48 AM
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You have to plug the hose when you remove it from the booster. If the vacuum advance was hooked to manifold vacuum prior to you capping it off, you will need to raise your curb idle speed to compensate.
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Old September 17th, 2018, 07:25 AM
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Originally Posted by oldcutlass
You have to plug the hose when you remove it from the booster. If the vacuum advance was hooked to manifold vacuum prior to you capping it off, you will need to raise your curb idle speed to compensate.
When I got the car, distributor was running to ported vacuum on the carb. Ported is now capped, distributor and tranny are T’d to the driver’s side port of the carb.


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Old September 17th, 2018, 08:15 AM
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Then you need to raise the curb idle because when vacuum advance is hooked to manifold it not only advances the timing but the idle also goes up.
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Old September 17th, 2018, 01:38 PM
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Seems like I need to start from square one. After I replaced the balancer and stuff I kept the hei dist where it was at. At idle it was about 16 degrees(idle plate stops at 12 so I’m guesstimating). I increased idle to ~3000rpm and used my dial light to set at 0 based off what I’ve read on the net.
After that the idle seemed low, wasn’t smooth just like before with the same, if not worse vacuum readings. Air/mixture doesn’t seem to change anything unless both are fully closed.
I hear what sounds like a vacuum leak on the driver’s side but the carb spray method doesn’t seem to affect idle.

What should normally happen when you pull the booster hose without plugging it? How about when you plug it?
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Old September 17th, 2018, 02:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Mossy
Seems like I need to start from square one. After I replaced the balancer and stuff I kept the hei dist where it was at. At idle it was about 16 degrees(idle plate stops at 12 so I’m guesstimating). I increased idle to ~3000rpm and used my dial light to set at 0 based off what I’ve read on the net.

You lost me on what your doing here.

After that the idle seemed low, wasn’t smooth just like before with the same, if not worse vacuum readings. Air/mixture doesn’t seem to change anything unless both are fully closed.
I hear what sounds like a vacuum leak on the driver’s side but the carb spray method doesn’t seem to affect idle.

Raise the idle to 750RPM. Find the vacuum leak.

What should normally happen when you pull the booster hose without plugging it? How about when you plug it?
When you unplug the vacuum booster line, the engine rpm will increase dramatically if left open. If you plug it the RPM will drop back to where it was before you unplugged it.
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Old September 17th, 2018, 04:13 PM
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Sorry, was doing to do too many things at once......I’m trying to figure out if my booster is bad and if that is contributing to my low vacuum readings.
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Old September 17th, 2018, 04:14 PM
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When you push on the brake pedal with the engine running does it feel hard? If not chances are good its ok.
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Old September 17th, 2018, 05:14 PM
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Originally Posted by oldcutlass
When you push on the brake pedal with the engine running does it feel hard? If not chances are good its ok.

It always feels hard and takes quite a bit of pressure to slow the car down.
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Old September 17th, 2018, 06:07 PM
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Let me reclarify, if the pedal is hard, with the engine running, and vacuum connected to the booster, the booster is bad.
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Old September 17th, 2018, 07:15 PM
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Great thanks! I adjusted the idle and the car is running pretty good on the road. I plugged the booster line after increasing the idle and it doesn’t stall

Still feels like the brake pedal is really hard

Last edited by Mossy; September 17th, 2018 at 10:37 PM.
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Old September 19th, 2018, 06:22 AM
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The pedal will be hard, you now have manual brakes.
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Old September 19th, 2018, 06:51 AM
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Originally Posted by olds 307 and 403
The pedal will be hard, you now have manual brakes.

Are you referring to the type of brake system in the car or are you thinking I left the booster disconnected?
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Old September 19th, 2018, 10:58 AM
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We are thinking you left the booster vacuum disconnected.
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Old September 19th, 2018, 07:17 PM
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Originally Posted by oldcutlass
We are thinking you left the booster vacuum disconnected.
Yep
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Old September 25th, 2018, 11:21 PM
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No it’s still connected.
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