ARP main bolts

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Old July 29th, 2018, 03:49 PM
  #1  
Kyle
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ARP main bolts

Should I get ARP main studs (184-5401) or main bolts (184-5001)? Is there any true benefit to studs over bolts? Just a quick question.

EDIT: Budget is no big deal if it is truly superior and will hold up over time, anyways they studs are only 30 dollars extra.

Last edited by 87Brougham; July 29th, 2018 at 03:52 PM.
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Old July 30th, 2018, 12:16 AM
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Studs are stronger. Main bearing straps and studs are even better. Main bearing studs and a girdle are the best.
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Old July 30th, 2018, 12:56 AM
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We've all heard studs are stronger and I've selected studs on a BBC project I'm doing, but Olds sent millions of engines out the door under warranty with bolts. To this day the high horsepower factory engines use bolts. Whether bolts or studs, research proper torque and oiling of fasteners. A major percent of failures is due to improper torqueing procedures. On my Olds engines I will be using ARP bolts. Good luck with your project.
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Old July 30th, 2018, 06:36 AM
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Kyle
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Originally Posted by shiftbyear
We've all heard studs are stronger and I've selected studs on a BBC project I'm doing, but Olds sent millions of engines out the door under warranty with bolts. To this day the high horsepower factory engines use bolts. Whether bolts or studs, research proper torque and oiling of fasteners. A major percent of failures is due to improper torqueing procedures. On my Olds engines I will be using ARP bolts. Good luck with your project.
Thanks both you guys. Insurance sake I'll use studs. lol my neighbor keeps telling me horror stories from him racing where a bolt failed and the piston blows the whole engine up. Really freaking me out. Better safe than sorry!
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Old July 30th, 2018, 07:25 AM
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Originally Posted by 87Brougham
Thanks both you guys. Insurance sake I'll use studs. lol my neighbor keeps telling me horror stories from him racing where a bolt failed and the piston blows the whole engine up. Really freaking me out. Better safe than sorry!
If you’re increasing the hp substantially then use studs. If the gains are moderate then use the ARP bolts. Either way you’ll need to align hone the mains.
Studs pull differently than bolts, mainly because the load is distributed differently, via top and bottom threads, not just the bottom like a bolt.
And yes today’s engines use bolts, but their internals are better, lighter etc. And in most cases they’re using multiple bolts, ie LS and Hemi engines.
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Old July 30th, 2018, 02:34 PM
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Originally Posted by OLDSter Ralph
Studs are stronger. Main bearing straps and studs are even better. Main bearing studs and a girdle are the best.
As an aerospace engineer specializing in structures, I can assure you that the straps over the main caps are less than worthless. They don't stiffen the cap - since the cap is already much stiffer than those straps - and as such they don't pick up any load. They are about as effective as the oil restrictors in the cam bearing passages.
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Old July 30th, 2018, 02:40 PM
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Ordered the main studs. Also ordered rod bolts. Can't seem to find the head studs for a non diesel 350, can anyone help me out with a part number off the top of their head?
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Old July 30th, 2018, 02:54 PM
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Originally Posted by 87Brougham
Ordered the main studs. Also ordered rod bolts. Can't seem to find the head studs for a non diesel 350, can anyone help me out with a part number off the top of their head?
Their 403 head studs are the same 1/2" studs used on all 1977-1990 Olds motors. Kit # 184-4004.
1964-1976 motors use 7/16" studs. Be aware that head studs won't have the provisions for accessory bracket mounting.
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