olds 307 and 403

Well, my car died and now I want to kill it! I was tuning it, turned it off and has not fired since! Changed the distributor, module coil etc, no spark. I even put my Mallory set up on, nothing, no spark. I found only 8 volts to distributor, fixed it, now 11 volts key on from the ignition spade in the fuse box. Could it be possible I toasted two different module's? I have a 3rd one to try, this is insane. It sounds normal cranking, I know a skipped timing chain sounds, there is just no spark. I never had this much issues with a factory HEI.

edzolz

Have you checked for spark at the spark plugs? A toasted module would give no spark at the plugs.

72455442RA

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Lisle-Inl...72&athena=true

olds 307 and 403

Yes, 0 spark, wife and daughter cranking with a spark plug touched against the header or head bolt. I assumed it was carb issues. Now that I think about it, unstable idle, almost stalling , dropping 400 to 500 rpm and stalling out on hard launches. The plugs are also black. Just strange if two module's are bad, maybe the low voltage or spikes?

olds 307 and 403

Actually,. 3 module's tried and the rotor is moving.

oldcutlass

This is a pretty good trouble shooting guide.
https://www.autozone.com/repairguide...00c15280083b2c

Disconnect your tach if you have one connected, you can run a jumper from the battery+ to the bat terminal on the cap and isolate the distributor from everything else.

olds 307 and 403

Tach is a good idea. I ran a jumper, instantly sort of ran. Tried my Ignitor 3 module, it is toast. Tried the AC Delco aftermarket module, worked fine, so it stays in. It has to be ignition switch related.

oldcutlass

Now remove the jumper and try with ignition switch. Your not running through a resistance wire right?

olds 307 and 403

No start and no voltage in the run position at the ignition terminal in the fuse box. I hook my wire to accessory terminal and it will start as I let the key go with that wire.

oldcutlass

Check the adjacent fuses next to the IGN terminal, one is blown.

coppercutlass

I always run a hot wire from the junction on the fire wall to a kill switch on the dash or under etc etc. No need to mess with old wiring. I only use the ignition now to arm the dist. I use a push button on my switch panel but prior to this I just ran a kill switch to the dist. Sweet simple and an anti theft device.

olds 307 and 403

Well pretty sure the module died and blew the fuse, I used the heat sink paste. It was one of the light up fuses, didn't light up and didn't look obviously blown but was. The car is definitely idiling better, working too much lately and not enough sleep. Thanks for the help.

olds 307 and 403

Thinking about it, the wire from the fuse box caused the module to blow. I now have the choke running of the accessory terminal. The car finally idles better, funny what 12 volts will do.

Yellowstatue

And you just saved a lot of GAS...

oldcutlass

Glad you got it.

olds 307 and 403

I actually swapped back in my Mallory Magnetic Breakerless distributor, 18 base with 18 mechanical curved to come in before 2500 RPM, may be too quick. I think the vacuum is set to 12 degrees of advance. Either way, I can lay rubber on dry pavement now and very responsive part throttle. The tach is still acting wonky, flooring the gauge at idle and jumping around. I think the other tach adapter is needed, for the white wire. For now, I have my timing light in the cab for a tach.