71 Olds 350 Electric Cooling Fan Switch Recommendation
#1
71 Olds 350 Electric Cooling Fan Switch Recommendation
Hey guys, I just wired up my electric fan and it works great, but I need to get a cooling fan switch for it (im using a toggle switch right now). I have a 71 Olds 350 with the edelbrock rpm performer intake manifold. I would like a switch that is self grounding and it turns on at 180 degrees. Any recommendations? Thanks
#2
I have tried a couple of the screw into your intake style and they all failed. A controller with a relay is also a good idea but they also fail. I would leave the toggle inline with the intake switch as back up.
#4
I have an older flex-a-lite controller that has worked for years.(First picture between battery and washer tank) It came with their dual fans(low amps). It is a Flex-A-Lite Adjustable Electric Fan Controllers # 30332.
But it depends on how much amps your fans are drawing. You my want to add a relay to it, to keep the amp low into the controller. The controller has to only send low power to relay. I hook up the fuse to the battery. It would run the fans for a short time after the key was turned off. Keep the engine cool.
I added an meziere water pump and are now using a Altronics 030-ST(Second picture - below the over flow tank) with added relay to feed power to meziere pump. So far it working great, car never goes over 180. Love it. Hot here in South padre Island,TX in summer.
I have the old Flex-A-Lite #30332 controller I would sell cheap, I have anther one that new from another brand, I would have to look for it.
Bottom Line! If the fan(s) need a lot of amps, add a relay. They are cheap, controllers are not.
John
But it depends on how much amps your fans are drawing. You my want to add a relay to it, to keep the amp low into the controller. The controller has to only send low power to relay. I hook up the fuse to the battery. It would run the fans for a short time after the key was turned off. Keep the engine cool.
I added an meziere water pump and are now using a Altronics 030-ST(Second picture - below the over flow tank) with added relay to feed power to meziere pump. So far it working great, car never goes over 180. Love it. Hot here in South padre Island,TX in summer.
I have the old Flex-A-Lite #30332 controller I would sell cheap, I have anther one that new from another brand, I would have to look for it.
Bottom Line! If the fan(s) need a lot of amps, add a relay. They are cheap, controllers are not.
John
#5
I just purchased a Mishimoto electric fan controller from Summit. It has a probe you stick in the fins in the radiator close to the inlet. It has a relay that is used on the ground of the fan. It is adjustable so you can control when your fan comes on. And no, it did not come off a Mitsubishi. I think it cost something like $57. I have not installed it yet.
#6
The Be Cool switches worked best for the screw in switches. I also have that Flexalite 30332 controller. I have gone through 2 relays in two years, there is a 40 amp relay board inside that is replaceable. I think the Dodge Stratus fans pull too many amps. I plan on running the Hayden 3652 185 on an 170 off with a push in probe, I can get it locally. The push in probe seem to hold up better but sometimes aren't as accurate for their turn on temps.
Last edited by olds 307 and 403; February 26th, 2018 at 07:54 PM.
#7
I have been happy with my fan controller from DC Controls. Domestic design and manufacturing, made to order, knowledgeable and responsive people, but not cheap. I have their model FK-75 on my Nissan Titan with two 14'' Hayden fans.
http://www.dccontrol.com/constant_te...ontrollers.htm
http://www.dccontrol.com/constant_te...ontrollers.htm
#8
I have been happy with my fan controller from DC Controls. Domestic design and manufacturing, made to order, knowledgeable and responsive people, but not cheap. I have their model FK-75 on my Nissan Titan with two 14'' Hayden fans.
http://www.dccontrol.com/constant_te...ontrollers.htm
http://www.dccontrol.com/constant_te...ontrollers.htm
#9
This is what I used on my Mopar, will definitely use again!
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/der-16720
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/flx-32082
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/der-16720
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/flx-32082
#10
This is what I used on my Mopar, will definitely use again!
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/der-16720
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/flx-32082
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/der-16720
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/flx-32082
#11
How was the wiring quality of that controller? I bought two and the connectors fell apart, just junk. I also had a better made adjustable controller but it adjusted itself. The range was 160 to 250, so my car would over heat when it would self adjust to the maximum setting. Derale's aftermarket fans are supposed to be the best on the market, move a ton of air and draw big amps. Their controller's, not so great from my experiences.
it has been great, it has been on for about 4 years with no issues. I believe I am using a 185 on 165 off and a switch to my AC which is what I like best, it does keep ac cooler in traffic. I used a fan from a 90's T-bird. Good stuff.
#13
I use the ground for the switch to, seems safer that way. I actually moved up to a 40 (maybe 50?) amp relay and heavy wiring. Other than the switch and diode it looks pretty close to your setup.
#15
This is just an update for others that might have the same problem. I used the setup that Oldcutlass has provided above. What I didnt do is use a thermo switch, I had a problem finding one locally and online that was self grounding, so i use a toggle switch under the dash. All the parts were bought at advanced auto parts for $25 (relay, 10g wire, inline fuse(bulb style because i had spares already) and toggle switch) Hope this helps.
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