New 350 build
#1
New 350 build
I'm going to do something a wee bit different than I normally do.
As you may be aware of, Mahle will be introducing a new Olds piston in three sizes, 4.065, 4.100, 4.155.
I will be assembling and dynoing a new build incorporating this new piston. It will have approx 9.75:1 compression, #6 heads with 2.00/1.62 valves, a flat tappet hyd cam as well as an RPM intake and Quick Fuel carb. Just about everything a typical build on here consists of. From there the plan is to offer it to anyone interested at what will be a discounted price. It's really just to show what kind of reliable small block power can be made at a reasonable price.
Stay tuned!
As you may be aware of, Mahle will be introducing a new Olds piston in three sizes, 4.065, 4.100, 4.155.
I will be assembling and dynoing a new build incorporating this new piston. It will have approx 9.75:1 compression, #6 heads with 2.00/1.62 valves, a flat tappet hyd cam as well as an RPM intake and Quick Fuel carb. Just about everything a typical build on here consists of. From there the plan is to offer it to anyone interested at what will be a discounted price. It's really just to show what kind of reliable small block power can be made at a reasonable price.
Stay tuned!
#4
The 355 currently in use will be yanked for the 355 on the stand i have waiting. The current one will get freshened up and im thinking of the 4.100 pistons for that freshen up. I plan on buying a set this winter once available.
#7
Yes and yes. Bore will be 4.155 because I'm using a block that was already .030 over. As mentioned many times here, the way my blocks are machined there's little to no chance it'll clean at 4.100.
Cam will most likely be an Erson TQ40. Carb will be a QF 750 Slayer, all the pieces I've been selling and recommending for years.
For the record, I'd much rather do a hyd roller but this is more of budget build, much like a majority on here currently.
Cam will most likely be an Erson TQ40. Carb will be a QF 750 Slayer, all the pieces I've been selling and recommending for years.
For the record, I'd much rather do a hyd roller but this is more of budget build, much like a majority on here currently.
#8
Yes and yes. Bore will be 4.155 because I'm using a block that was already .030 over. As mentioned many times here, the way my blocks are machined there's little to no chance it'll clean at 4.100.
Cam will most likely be an Erson TQ40. Carb will be a QF 750 Slayer, all the pieces I've been selling and recommending for years.
For the record, I'd much rather do a hyd roller but this is more of budget build, much like a majority on here currently.
Cam will most likely be an Erson TQ40. Carb will be a QF 750 Slayer, all the pieces I've been selling and recommending for years.
For the record, I'd much rather do a hyd roller but this is more of budget build, much like a majority on here currently.
And if you all are nice to me😉, I'll try to do a back to back with an Edelbrock 2711 vs a 7111. It would be interesting to see I think.
#9
Mark
Can you post the specs for the Erson TQ40
thanks and good luck with the build. I look forward to reading about it.
Dave
never mind...I found it
http://www.pbm-erson.com/Catalog/Ers...t_E/ERSE540222
Duration @ .050:
Can you post the specs for the Erson TQ40
thanks and good luck with the build. I look forward to reading about it.
Dave
never mind...I found it
http://www.pbm-erson.com/Catalog/Ers...t_E/ERSE540222
Duration @ .050:
- 220/280 AS PER THE WEBSITE?
- CAN THIS BE RIGHT OR IS THIS AN ERROR ON THE WEBSITE?
Duration Advertised: - 284/296
- Grind Number:
- TQ40H
- Gross Lift:
- .504/.504
- Lobe Center:
- 110
- Make:
- Oldsmobile
- RPM Range:
- 2000-5500
- Valve Lash:
- .000/.000
Last edited by oldsmobiledave; October 28th, 2017 at 12:26 PM.
#10
TQ40 is actually 277/284 adv., 220/228@.050 on a 110 with .500 lift on both.
Copper- that would be great if you purchase a set. More products will come as long as the current ones sell. Thank you.
Heads will have a multi angle valve job with a minor bowl blend.
They'll also have the center divider welded and the crossovers filled. I believe that makes a difference.
Hp/Tq guess (corrected) - 340/385. Anyone else want to make a guess?
It'll have the same headers and exhaust as the 374 I just did by the way.
Copper- that would be great if you purchase a set. More products will come as long as the current ones sell. Thank you.
Heads will have a multi angle valve job with a minor bowl blend.
They'll also have the center divider welded and the crossovers filled. I believe that makes a difference.
Hp/Tq guess (corrected) - 340/385. Anyone else want to make a guess?
It'll have the same headers and exhaust as the 374 I just did by the way.
Last edited by cutlassefi; October 28th, 2017 at 01:24 PM.
#11
Cam specs
[QUOTE=cutlassefi;1052406]TQ40 is actually 277/284 adv., 220/228@.050 on a 110 with .500 lift on both.
I copied the specs from the Erson website. Odd that they are wrong on their own site.
Is this the cam you recently recommended for Randy for his 455 in his 69 442?
I copied the specs from the Erson website. Odd that they are wrong on their own site.
Is this the cam you recently recommended for Randy for his 455 in his 69 442?
#12
I'm sure, those are old specs, taken at less than .006 tappet lift.
The good thing is when you order an Erson came you get a Cam Pro sheet showing actual numbers. Very few do that.
The good thing is when you order an Erson came you get a Cam Pro sheet showing actual numbers. Very few do that.
#13
Update;
Pistons are running a little behind and the first block to be used was cracked so I had to get another one (finished bore will now be 4.100). So dyno day should be early Jan at the latest.
Also, being a Holley dealer I will also most likely be doing a carb to Sniper EFI comparison. Again build will be typical of what I've recommended over the years.
Thanks.
Pistons are running a little behind and the first block to be used was cracked so I had to get another one (finished bore will now be 4.100). So dyno day should be early Jan at the latest.
Also, being a Holley dealer I will also most likely be doing a carb to Sniper EFI comparison. Again build will be typical of what I've recommended over the years.
Thanks.
Last edited by cutlassefi; December 15th, 2017 at 07:23 AM.
#14
Cool Mark. The reviews are mostly positive for the Sniper, some have even swapped the Fitech with positive results over it. I am very curious to see what is produces and how much is gained with the RPM over the Performer. Will the RPM be notched? I think you should try a "1 open spacer on both.
#15
I will take the parts you suggest for my 350 when you have assembled them in a package. I would kinda like to keep my Performer intake and short headers if the numbers won't be drastic.
However, I don't mind swapping my performer out for an RPM if need be, I'm sure I could give the performer to a member here that would like one.
The short headers would need to stay just for fitment and custom exhaust reasons.
I will have my shopping cart ready when you are Mark.
Cheers
Eric
However, I don't mind swapping my performer out for an RPM if need be, I'm sure I could give the performer to a member here that would like one.
The short headers would need to stay just for fitment and custom exhaust reasons.
I will have my shopping cart ready when you are Mark.
Cheers
Eric
#16
Those Hedman headers will be fine, one guy was in the 11's with them on a 403. Some have ran quicker with the Performer on mild 9 to 1 350's. Others have gotten gains on stock Vin 9 307's. Both owners were mechanics and good tuners. It will be very interesting to see how much the RPM gains on a fairly typical build. I think it will be a good amount with the compression and cam.
#18
I do Mark, it is the 3711 EGR but has the block of plates installed. I just pulled it off to swap my RPM on my 350. I have a 1" spacer and studs but the spacer is spreadbore. I can send the studs as they would work with any 1" spacer. The only repair is I believe, one of the thermostat bolts is tapped to 3/8" and the intake is painted gold. PM me your address so I can see what shipping will cost me, thinking $50 Canadian, just sent out a 2004R deep pan to the States, would be a similar size. I might take 2 weeks to get there. I would like to see a 1" spacer tested, it has to be worth some hp/tq on this intake.
Last edited by olds 307 and 403; December 16th, 2017 at 06:07 AM.
#19
Christian, I can pay half the shipping costs if you like since it will help out both of us and hopefully more SBO guys here.
I wish I had an extra set of short headers kicking around, perhaps Mark would do a pull with them as well.
Good call on the 1" 4 hole spacer, would be nice to see if it produces anything.
If I can help in any way let me know !
Cheers
Eric
I wish I had an extra set of short headers kicking around, perhaps Mark would do a pull with them as well.
Good call on the 1" 4 hole spacer, would be nice to see if it produces anything.
If I can help in any way let me know !
Cheers
Eric
#20
I have a ? maybe Mark could chime in here as well. I have a 75 SBO block had the block checked and was told it will just need a lite hone.
Would I be better to just let the machine shop do a lite hone, or bore it out to whatever you feel would be best for the pistons you have coming available ?
I will take rods, bearings, cam, lifters etc- The whole package I would just need to know what to ask the machine shop to do with the block.
Thanks
Eric
Would I be better to just let the machine shop do a lite hone, or bore it out to whatever you feel would be best for the pistons you have coming available ?
I will take rods, bearings, cam, lifters etc- The whole package I would just need to know what to ask the machine shop to do with the block.
Thanks
Eric
#21
The 4.065" bore pistons will work perfect with that block, they are basically a hone to fit. I have no problem sending it to Mark. I will also send an aluminum water neck drilled out to 3/8" to match the oversize bolt. I will clean up the gasket surfaces before I send it as well with the right length bolts. I do have an open and 4 hole 1" spacer but they are Spreadbore unfortunately, so no help with a Holley style carb. I can cover the shipping cost, we will talk on that girdle 76olds. I will try and get measurements Monday. Only working a day a week right now but wasting hours buffing the Tremclad paint job on the 70S.
#22
[QUOTE=olds 307 and 403;1062418]The 4.065" bore pistons will work perfect with that block, they are basically a hone to fit. I can cover the shipping cost, we will talk on that girdle 76olds
I will hook you up with that girdle , my time is free at times haha. I will make sure my wife punches my card out lol. The material and shipping will be talked about! Put-er'-ther.
I wonder if it's worth making one up for myself ?Added insurance possibly ?
As for a hone and the 4.065 pistons, would I achieve much more punching it out bigger?
I will hook you up with that girdle , my time is free at times haha. I will make sure my wife punches my card out lol. The material and shipping will be talked about! Put-er'-ther.
I wonder if it's worth making one up for myself ?Added insurance possibly ?
As for a hone and the 4.065 pistons, would I achieve much more punching it out bigger?
Last edited by 76olds; December 16th, 2017 at 09:41 PM. Reason: insurance
#23
I have a ? maybe Mark could chime in here as well. I have a 75 SBO block had the block checked and was told it will just need a lite hone.
Would I be better to just let the machine shop do a lite hone, or bore it out to whatever you feel would be best for the pistons you have coming available ?
I will take rods, bearings, cam, lifters etc- The whole package I would just need to know what to ask the machine shop to do with the block.
Thanks
Eric
Would I be better to just let the machine shop do a lite hone, or bore it out to whatever you feel would be best for the pistons you have coming available ?
I will take rods, bearings, cam, lifters etc- The whole package I would just need to know what to ask the machine shop to do with the block.
Thanks
Eric
That's a trick question on the size of the pistons you need.
Yes you can hone the block to 4.065. But as mentioned, the block I'm using for this was standard also but I went with the 4.100's. The reason is the way I have my blocks done differs from the way most, if not all of the guys here seem to do them.
My blocks are align honed first, square decked with a BHJ Blok-Tru, then bored with a BHJ Bor-Tru, then honed with a torque plate. Just for point of reference, the block I just did barely cleaned up at 4.100 from 4.057, and it had very little wear. The cylinders were that far off as they typically are. I believe this is one of the reasons my stuff makes competitive power vs the more well known engine builders.
But I understand most here don't go to the extent I do, or have the opportunity to, I get it. That's why we did the 4.065 bore. But remember that one is for the 400E guys as well.
Thanks for the shipping offer too.
Last edited by cutlassefi; December 17th, 2017 at 05:55 AM.
#24
[QUOTE=cutlassefi;1062473]Hey Eric, just let me know when you're ready.
That's a trick question on the size of the pistons you need.
My blocks are align honed first, square decked with a BHJ Blok-Tru, then bored with a BHJ Bor-Tru, then honed with a torque plate. Just for point of reference, the block I just did barely cleaned up at 4.100 from 4.057, and it had very little wear. The cylinders were that far off as they typically are. I believe this is one of the reasons my stuff makes competitive power vs the more well known engine builders.
Thanks for the info Mark.
I will have more time on my hands once we get through the Holidays. I will speak to the machine shop to see if they can machine the block as you pointed out. I will also inquire about the fixtures you mentioned.
If so, I don't mind going with the 4.100 pistons.
They haven't rebuilt/machined an Olds engine in many years, but they assured me they won't have an issue with machining to the parts supplied. The machine shop is our local Napa Parts dealer- previously Ideal supply with a machine shop in place for many years.
They currently have my block, crank with the #8 heads, I have a pair of #6's but found one is cracked. So I'm not sure what way to go on heads yet.
Your thoughts??
Thanks
Eric
That's a trick question on the size of the pistons you need.
My blocks are align honed first, square decked with a BHJ Blok-Tru, then bored with a BHJ Bor-Tru, then honed with a torque plate. Just for point of reference, the block I just did barely cleaned up at 4.100 from 4.057, and it had very little wear. The cylinders were that far off as they typically are. I believe this is one of the reasons my stuff makes competitive power vs the more well known engine builders.
Thanks for the info Mark.
I will have more time on my hands once we get through the Holidays. I will speak to the machine shop to see if they can machine the block as you pointed out. I will also inquire about the fixtures you mentioned.
If so, I don't mind going with the 4.100 pistons.
They haven't rebuilt/machined an Olds engine in many years, but they assured me they won't have an issue with machining to the parts supplied. The machine shop is our local Napa Parts dealer- previously Ideal supply with a machine shop in place for many years.
They currently have my block, crank with the #8 heads, I have a pair of #6's but found one is cracked. So I'm not sure what way to go on heads yet.
Your thoughts??
Thanks
Eric
Last edited by 76olds; December 17th, 2017 at 05:50 PM.
#25
[QUOTE=76olds;1062629]
Hope this helps.
Hey Eric, just let me know when you're ready.
That's a trick question on the size of the pistons you need.
My blocks are align honed first, square decked with a BHJ Blok-Tru, then bored with a BHJ Bor-Tru, then honed with a torque plate. Just for point of reference, the block I just did barely cleaned up at 4.100 from 4.057, and it had very little wear. The cylinders were that far off as they typically are. I believe this is one of the reasons my stuff makes competitive power vs the more well known engine builders.
Thanks for the info Mark.
I will have more time on my hands once we get through the Holidays. I will speak to the machine shop to see if they can machine the block as you pointed out. I will also inquire about the fixtures you mentioned. Sorry but they won't have them I'm sure. BHJ told me they've sold three or four Bor-Tru plates in the last 20 years.
If so, I don't mind going with the 4.100 pistons.
They haven't rebuilt/machined an Olds engine in many years, but they assured me they won't have an issue with machining to the parts supplied. The machine shop is our local Napa Parts dealer- previously Ideal supply with a machine shop in place for many years.
They currently have my block, crank with the #8 heads, I have a pair of #6's but found one is cracked. So I'm not sure what way to go on heads yet.
Your thoughts?? Scrap the 8's and find a set of early ones.
Thanks
Eric
That's a trick question on the size of the pistons you need.
My blocks are align honed first, square decked with a BHJ Blok-Tru, then bored with a BHJ Bor-Tru, then honed with a torque plate. Just for point of reference, the block I just did barely cleaned up at 4.100 from 4.057, and it had very little wear. The cylinders were that far off as they typically are. I believe this is one of the reasons my stuff makes competitive power vs the more well known engine builders.
Thanks for the info Mark.
I will have more time on my hands once we get through the Holidays. I will speak to the machine shop to see if they can machine the block as you pointed out. I will also inquire about the fixtures you mentioned. Sorry but they won't have them I'm sure. BHJ told me they've sold three or four Bor-Tru plates in the last 20 years.
If so, I don't mind going with the 4.100 pistons.
They haven't rebuilt/machined an Olds engine in many years, but they assured me they won't have an issue with machining to the parts supplied. The machine shop is our local Napa Parts dealer- previously Ideal supply with a machine shop in place for many years.
They currently have my block, crank with the #8 heads, I have a pair of #6's but found one is cracked. So I'm not sure what way to go on heads yet.
Your thoughts?? Scrap the 8's and find a set of early ones.
Thanks
Eric
#26
What compression ratio are you shooting for 76olds? I have a set of #6 heads, I would let go probably cheap. Maybe an even trade for the girdle and make up a torque plate we can both use? I bought them from a member from Quebec on ROP, they cost me $150 to ship through Canada Post, $800 total cost. The biggest issue is they were milled to 55cc chambers, can't remember if I ccd them but I could. The chambers could be polished to gain back 5cc, just time involved.The intake face was milled, my RPM fit with the turkey tray gasket. They have 2"/1.625" valves, filled cross overs, comp double springs, machined for and have positive seals. They also have screw in 3/8" studs with guide plates. I could include Comp roller tip rocker arms, missing one nut. I maybe could include the pushrods, I was planning on using them with 1.72 to 1 roller rockers I have, could send a measurement at the very least. They also have bowl and port work that took a heavy 70's Delta into the 12's on a 9.5 to 1 355 block with a Comp 280H cam. May 88 Cutlass finally got in the 14's with the tiny 204/214 cam and those heads. I found a set of fresh #6 heads locally for $400 with $1200 work with 62-64 cc chambers, I put them on my current 350. I was going to use them on the stroker 403 but need a 10cc larger chamber at minimum to run pump gas. They would need a valve job and seals at minimum. The #8's need bowl work especially the exhaust side and milling to get any compression even with flat top pistons.
#27
Hey Mark, I spoke with the machine shop this evening. They have never heard of the BHJ devices. Nor do they have an align bore machine. Do I need to say more haha.
They can send the block out for align hone if needed.
I'm kinda disappointed about that really since they don't have an issue working with parts that I supply them.
He's still confident he can machine the block with the supplied pistons, he suggested just going with .015 or .03 over. He told me he would take his time with it. He's aware of the oiling issues with Olds. So ??
I was hoping to have the #6's digitised casted and CNC'd but just didn't have to the time to continue with that. However, I will scrap the #8's and go with an earlier set.
Should I take my block to another shop?
They can send the block out for align hone if needed.
I'm kinda disappointed about that really since they don't have an issue working with parts that I supply them.
He's still confident he can machine the block with the supplied pistons, he suggested just going with .015 or .03 over. He told me he would take his time with it. He's aware of the oiling issues with Olds. So ??
I was hoping to have the #6's digitised casted and CNC'd but just didn't have to the time to continue with that. However, I will scrap the #8's and go with an earlier set.
Should I take my block to another shop?
#28
@307and403, I would like to get 9:5:1 or just under if possible. We could certainly work something out for the #6 heads you have.
If you could shoot me the dimensions, hole locations and thickness of each plate, I will get them made up and send them out to you a week or two after I get the dimensions.
Do you know what material they are generally made from? Are they heat treated or flame hardened ?
If not I can make them out of PH-4140 I will order the material in Blanchard ground, If hardened I can go with A2 harden it to 54-56rc then surface grind.
Either way, I would prefer to cover the costs and then I can make up for what your out of pocket on the heads. I will shoot you the difference on the $800.00 you have into the heads since the material costs won't come close to 8hun.
Shoot me some dimensions ASAP so I can get them to you in early January. This will move our builds along quicker.
Cheers
Eric
If you could shoot me the dimensions, hole locations and thickness of each plate, I will get them made up and send them out to you a week or two after I get the dimensions.
Do you know what material they are generally made from? Are they heat treated or flame hardened ?
If not I can make them out of PH-4140 I will order the material in Blanchard ground, If hardened I can go with A2 harden it to 54-56rc then surface grind.
Either way, I would prefer to cover the costs and then I can make up for what your out of pocket on the heads. I will shoot you the difference on the $800.00 you have into the heads since the material costs won't come close to 8hun.
Shoot me some dimensions ASAP so I can get them to you in early January. This will move our builds along quicker.
Cheers
Eric
#29
Hey Mark, I spoke with the machine shop this evening. They have never heard of the BHJ devices. Nor do they have an align bore machine. Do I need to say more haha. Told ya
They can send the block out for align hone if needed.
I'm kinda disappointed about that really since they don't have an issue working with parts that I supply them.
He's still confident he can machine the block with the supplied pistons, he suggested just going with .015 or .03 over. Nobody makes a .015 over piston for an Olds. He told me he would take his time with it. So otherwise he wouldn't? He's aware of the oiling issues with Olds. What oiling issues? So ??
I was hoping to have the #6's digitised casted and CNC'd but just didn't have to the time to continue with that. However, I will scrap the #8's and go with an earlier set.
Should I take my block to another shop? Uhh, yes.
They can send the block out for align hone if needed.
I'm kinda disappointed about that really since they don't have an issue working with parts that I supply them.
He's still confident he can machine the block with the supplied pistons, he suggested just going with .015 or .03 over. Nobody makes a .015 over piston for an Olds. He told me he would take his time with it. So otherwise he wouldn't? He's aware of the oiling issues with Olds. What oiling issues? So ??
I was hoping to have the #6's digitised casted and CNC'd but just didn't have to the time to continue with that. However, I will scrap the #8's and go with an earlier set.
Should I take my block to another shop? Uhh, yes.
#31
I hope you can make them work. I spent the money a couple of years back, water under the bridge. Hopefully the chambers can be opened enough to hit 9.6 to 1. I will get you the measurements tomorrow as best I can. The girdle and the torque plate both should be identical to your 350 other than head bolt size. Skilled labour goes along way towards parts, PM me and we can work out the details.
#32
@307and403,
If you could shoot me the dimensions, hole locations and thickness of each plate, I will get them made up and send them out to you a week or two after I get the dimensions.
Do you know what material they are generally made from? Are they heat treated or flame hardened ?
If not I can make them out of PH-4140 I will order the material in Blanchard ground, If hardened I can go with A2 harden it to 54-56rc then surface grind.
Eric
If you could shoot me the dimensions, hole locations and thickness of each plate, I will get them made up and send them out to you a week or two after I get the dimensions.
Do you know what material they are generally made from? Are they heat treated or flame hardened ?
If not I can make them out of PH-4140 I will order the material in Blanchard ground, If hardened I can go with A2 harden it to 54-56rc then surface grind.
Eric
PH-4140 shouldn't be that hard, check with your vendor. Off the top of my head, I think maybe 36-40 R "C". A2 would be overkill. You may want to "dust" them on the surface grinder after all the machining. A check on a surface plate will tell you if they warped.
I believe when I made a pair many years ago they were 1" thick. It would be interesting to know what the "store bought" things are.
Just my 2 cents worth.
RALPH
#33
Hey Ralph, From what I understand the girdle plates are in around 1/2, The torque plate I'm not sure.
The PH-4140 should be more than enough strength. It's usually in the 38-45 range. Bring it in Blanchard ground then no need to lick it on the grinder.
The torque plate would likely be better hardened and ground, but again I'm not familiar with specs on this type of work or usage.
I'm a Tool maker/CNC guy.
I'm sure we will make something work.
Eric
The PH-4140 should be more than enough strength. It's usually in the 38-45 range. Bring it in Blanchard ground then no need to lick it on the grinder.
The torque plate would likely be better hardened and ground, but again I'm not familiar with specs on this type of work or usage.
I'm a Tool maker/CNC guy.
I'm sure we will make something work.
Eric
#35
#39
Yes but most likely just on the RPM intake. My dyno guy is donating some of the time so I don't want to take too much advantage of that.
Remember this engine will be for sale, with either the carb or EFI, already tuned.
Remember this engine will be for sale, with either the carb or EFI, already tuned.