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Cool, hopefully it all goes well. Do a torque converter swap before you throw the motor back in. Someting like the Hughes 2500 stall will work well. I went from a 2300 stall to a factory 1800 stall, it sucks and my cam is smaller.
Last edited by olds 307 and 403; December 28th, 2017 at 06:16 AM.
Not sure why they list that cam as a idle -5,500 cam, I should have gone with a more torque cam I guess, I might get a converter. Its not hard to pull the trans later either, thanks for the tip.
Believe me I have been considering this.
My rear gear is 2.73 with a turbo 350 trans. I need the 2.73 for highway. The car is not very heavy, 3500 pounds maybe.
I 'm into the machine shop for 1,800 already.
1,000.00 parts
600.00 long block assy
200.00 balance rotating assy
Not sure what the machine cost are going to be? Crank was turned, bored 30 over, cleaning etc.
You need the extra duration for the 9.8 to 1 compression. A good converter will feel stock during normal driving. But when you get on it, a whole different tire smoking story. Spend the money now while it is easy.
The stock stall is 1800, so a 2000 is barely an upgrade. I had a 2200 to 2500 stall that flashed at 2300. It launched very nice. That was in front of a 2004R trans and stock 2.78 gears.
Almost finished, he needed to order a slightly longer push rods than the stock ones I had ordered. Not sure why, all lunanti parts, shorter lifters, smaller cam base circles? Copper color looks orange its VHT burnt copper, maybe it looks better in person. Got info via text.
I believe it is the smaller base circle cam. I have a slight tick with stock pushrods and new replacement rocker arms/bridges with my Erson custom cam. I am going a fully adjustable roller set up.
Almost finished, he needed to order a slightly longer push rods than the stock ones I had ordered. Not sure why, all lunanti parts, shorter lifters, smaller cam base circles? Copper color looks orange its VHT burnt copper, maybe it looks better in person. Got info via text.
Looks good, are you painting the valve covers or are they painted aluminum? Rocket Racing and SuperCars Unlimited have the factory replacement valve cover grommets that fit and work best.
Last edited by olds 307 and 403; January 6th, 2018 at 05:19 AM.
I painted them myself and I was able to find the grommets on Rock Auto, the breather was too small so I found one at the local Auto Zone. I like the way they turned out, looks Classic, thanks for the tips!
I pulled the old engine this weekend, installed the new torque converter, clean and re-jet carb. I should have the engine this week to install on Sunday!
Engine breaking in was epic fail, I was seating rings and heat cycling. Stopped to make a rod change on the carb, turn off engine (mistake) after rod change 5 mins. engine was very hard to turn over, like weak battery, but mechanical strain and would not start. I waited 15 min. and same thing but managed to fire up with lot tapping noises that quieted down, but are still there I think a stuck piston , lifter, or valve.
I would check with the shop on what clearances the Speedpro forged pistons were put in at. I think the directions still say .002", should be .004 minimum. Also what bearing clearances were used? What were the center exhaust guides put at for clearance? How is the oil pressure, did it change at all? Usually a shop unfamiliar with factory Olds heads set up the guide clearance too tight around the center exhaust guides, the valves get hotter near the big center cross over. Pull a valve cover and check for bent pushrods and rocker arms excessive movement to start.
Last edited by olds 307 and 403; January 16th, 2018 at 05:00 AM.
Talked with the shop, they are making a house call to check it out and go from there. Oil is dumped from filter pulled the morning after, filter after cam run in was cleaner. I saved the oil and filters to show the guys. It looked good in there for a minute.
Wal-Mart 10-30 with lunati break-in additive. I run cheap oil with zinc additives and change it often. I dumped the oil and changed the filter after the cam break-in, It was not too bad, this is oil dumped out of the filter after the knocking and ticking. Oil pressure gauge was rapidly pulsating if I remember correct, so might be rod bearing ? The shop guys are coming tonight to check it out. I am leaving it sit till they have a listen and go from there.
Well, engine sounded ok on cold start they found an exhaust leak and were a little concerned about the carbon in the oil, missed cleaning an oil passage maybe. They said run it and change the oil and see how it looks.
Well I don't notice much of a difference with the converter, I think my combo is all wrong. No smokey burn outs for me. The power band feels like 2800-5000 rpm. I need new rear gearing and a 4 speed I think. Just dropped the oil for a 3rd time, cut open the filter again, better! They think the noise was rocker arm fulcrum seating or something?? plus exhaust leak. Its been running good now.
Timing is about 32-36 all in, 18-22 idle with vacuum advance disconnected. This cam has a small window as to were it likes to run seems like. Im new to this , but I power braked it and it really hooked up at 2k. I have never used a performance converter, so not sure whaat I am looking for?
You need more gear. the 2.73 will hold you back. I would do a 3.42 and a 2500 stall.I once put in a stone stock 307(long story) with a 650 holley dp with a 2400 stall and 3.73 gears. It would lay some serious rubber.
You will love a 2500 stall. I had a 2800 and it wasn't too tight and not too loose. I now have a 3500 stall behind my 350 and its not bad around town the only problem is on and off the throttle driving where the converter does not like to recover so I usually gotta give it a little jab of the throttle around turns so the converter does not keep slipping. But that wont be the issues with a 2500.
Last edited by coppercutlass; January 21st, 2018 at 05:23 PM.
Pull up to stop sign, floor the gas as you let off the brake and watch the tach carefully. That initial jump is your stall speed. I have seen 1600 to 1900 stall on a stock converter behind a mild Olds 350 and 403, so a 2300 stall, if that is where it is at, is a 500 RPM improvement. You timing is close enough.
Well I don't notice much of a difference with the converter, I think my combo is all wrong. No smokey burn outs for me. The power band feels like 2800-5000 rpm. I need new rear gearing and a 4 speed I think. Just dropped the oil for a 3rd time, cut open the filter again, better! They think the noise was rocker arm fulcrum seating or something?? plus exhaust leak. Its been running good now.
Just install Cooper Cobras to your rims, problem solved..
Good to hear there apparently(?) wasnt anything major broken on engine. Hope you enjoy it!
Back to drama, engine has a slight rattle 2-4k rpm its was running pretty good and now its running very poorly and hard to start. I still see flakes in oil filter when dumped. Whats the best way to verify if a lobe has been wiped out? I pulled the valve cover and number 8 exhuast valve has some play, but its not bent. Maybe I should pull the intake and have a look?
Also been think that the cam timing is not correct because it kicks back on the start when hot and if I retard the timing it runs like dog doo.
Last edited by AZ520; January 24th, 2018 at 06:12 PM.
Was the cam degreed? What timing set was used? Your timing numbers are about right, I assume it is the large cap HEI distributor? Loosen off that pair of rocker arms and evenly tighten them till you reach 25 ft/lbs.
Last edited by olds 307 and 403; January 24th, 2018 at 06:28 PM.
Was the cam degreed? What timing set was used? Your timing numbers are about right, I assume it is the large cap HEI distributor? Loosen off that pair of rocker arms and evenly tighten them till you reach 25 ft/lbs.
Not degree in, pretty sure, timing set, not sure says clay 7-113 hp, will have to ask. Yes large cap, worked great on old engine.
Your timing should not be causing hard starting where it was. How do you have the vacuum advance hooked up? A stock vacuum advance canister? Your cam degree may be off. Not sure what timing set that is.
Your timing should not be causing hard starting where it was. How do you have the vacuum advance hooked up? A stock vacuum advance canister? Your cam degree may be off. Not sure what timing set that is.
I have tried timing it all over the place, by ear, 10, 12, 16, 18 static. I had to put stronger springs or it would almost die when put into gear. I run crane cams adjustable timing kit with limiter plate. It runs best very far advanced, but then kicks back on the starter hard and wont start unless I retard the timing a little. I will normally set timing without the vacuum advanced hooked up at 10-12, then have the limit set at 20. My old engine was super forgiving with the timing adjustments, this seems like something is off for sure.
I think the timing kit is a cloyes 9-1113, hand writing is hard to make out.
Thanks for helping btw
Last edited by AZ520; January 25th, 2018 at 04:58 AM.
You probably need 20 degrees at idle if it has the typical HEI advance curve but there are a couple of different curves I have found and how fast they advance is also different. Do you have the vacuum advance hooked to manifold or ported?
The Street Demon is a good carb and should not be far off out of box. Try reducing your vacuum advance to 10 degrees and run off ported vacuum. Try 20 base timing at idle with the vacuum hose plugged off the vacuum advance and try a hot start. My Cloyes timing set was accurate but unless checked, it could be off.
Also make sure valve stem heights are all within .005" MAX! Anymore variation is totally out of tolerance. Chevy guys do not know how to properly set up an Oldsmobile head. This is especially true if using factory style rocker arms.
IMO that's a ton of flake. I have broken in various engines I have built and never had that much. its usually very fine. Like metallic paint. I think its time to dig into it .
I will have to check with the shop about the valve guides and I think you are right, its time to yank, the real bummer is I was going to at least swap heads so I could up the compression on my other engine. Looking at the head receipt I see they put 20.00 worth of valve guides, no size listed or how many
December 28th, 2017, 06:08 AM
I think a stuck piston , lifter, or valve.
