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I am in the process on swappping heads and putting a custom cam from Mark in my 350, wondering what life in left in this Cloyes Street Roller timing set? I am considering the 9 position Cloyes billet roller, I would prefer to spend nothing but want many trouble free miles and it is apart. Thanks
Yah, there really is only a few thousand miles on this set. I will see how this set degrees, unless it way off, it will stay. For the Cloyes Billet set with the premium chain it would be over $200 Canadian with shipping. One of the reviews on the billet roller with the regular chain was stretched right away, so no point of spending $122 plus shipping for one that will look the same in a couple of miles.
Define a few... 3K, or 30K? If it only has a few, 3K, thousand miles on it and it is a good quality set, no need to replace it. If a new one will stretch to that shape again in that amount of miles your new cam will degree in and stay that way longer than with a new chain that will stretch out soon. Just another comment from the peanut gallery.
Last edited by cjsdad; April 12th, 2017 at 09:48 AM.
I recently put one of those upscale Cloyes billet sets you cited on a Ford 460 engine. Ford allows up to 1/2" mid-span deflection on the OEM chain before replacement is recommended. As Olds, they also used the non-all metal cam gear originally. The Cloyes chain runs VERY close to the oil slinger on that engine. Hence, to avoid getting
I added a home made shim between the crank sprocket and the slinger.
Some guys just omit the slinger (or bend it), but I wanted to keep it as is.
OEM
Cloyes version
So far, all seems to be working well without any leaks.
Temporarily slap the timing cover and balancer back on then rotate the crank while looking at the timing tab and the distributor rotor. What you're looking for is how many degrees the crank moves before the distributor rotor moves. 4 degrees is max IMO. Some say 6-8* is acceptable, not I.
Last edited by droldsmorland; April 13th, 2017 at 10:36 AM.
Temporarily slap the timing cover and balancer back on then rotate the crank while looking at the timing tab and the distributor rotor. What you're looking for is how many degrees the crank moves before the distributor rotor moves. 4 degrees is max IMO. Some say 6-8* is acceptable, not I.
I like this and I may try this one tomorrow. The Cloyes Billet set looks very nice. I just really don't want to change this timing set, money plus the wait=no good.
Last edited by olds 307 and 403; April 13th, 2017 at 07:23 PM.
I put the pointer and balancer on, I only see maybe 2 or so degrees of movement. I decided to put in a new rubber rear main even tough I replaced it a couple of years ago. I tucked away the Performer cam and lifters in order. Just need to clean up parts and wait for the cam from Mark.
Location: north of Toronto and quite a bit West!!!
Posts: 514
Originally Posted by olds 307 and 403
I agree, see if I can get many years out of this set. Watch for my degree post shortly.
Why is it apart in the first place??
Did you open up the front of the low kilo motor for something to do or is it you're just wanting to change the Rear Seal on this low Kilo Motor??
I have a fresh set of #6 heads that CC at 62 to 64cc, replacing the 55cc #6 heads I had with the 204/214 cam, not a good combo. I want good manners and be able to run 87 octane. With 9 to 1 instead of 9.5 to 1 and a 214/214 custom cam should run much better and be a pinging nightmare. The short block is actually original, a $120 76 350, a 40 year old motor, in great shape like many Olds V8's from this era.
Last edited by olds 307 and 403; April 18th, 2017 at 10:30 PM.
April 9th, 2017, 11:02 AM
