350 build advice needed

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Old July 1st, 2017, 10:22 AM
  #121  
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Got the air cleaner to fit. Headed it to the road. Street Demon works. No bogging or hesitating. Good starting point to more accurate calibrations. No doubt much better than Holley 600.
Also I was wrong a bit with it's adustability. Now I have read the manual (many times helpful). Part throttle conditions are tuned with primary metering rods and springs. WOT condition is adjusted by secondary jetting. May be tunable enough for me and most average builders, if you don't want to make a "science Project" out of your carb tuning.
I'll be assembling lambda sensors to see where the fueling really goes.
First time I really get to drive after engine build. Impressed. Sbo-stroker pulls harder than I expected. And it does that from idle as soon as you touch the pedal it pulls harder than stock Really looking forward to get it tuned
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Old July 1st, 2017, 03:35 PM
  #122  
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Whatg did you have to modify on that air cleaner? Looks great and this proves the 750 version will idle and run decent out of box with a fairly aggressive cam and decent compression. Olds V8's make more torque than some other brands, makes them awesome street motors.
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Old July 2nd, 2017, 04:22 AM
  #123  
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Originally Posted by olds 307 and 403
Whatg did you have to modify on that air cleaner? Looks great and this proves the 750 version will idle and run decent out of box with a fairly aggressive cam and decent compression. Olds V8's make more torque than some other brands, makes them awesome street motors.

My air cleaner is originally ment for 2bbl carb. I have modified the base by opening the hole for generig Holley size. Then I have welded a lathed sleeve to cleaner base to make it rigid/straight and strong. When going from Holly 600 to SD, I had to lift the base related to carb by 1/4", lathed a lift ring and welded to place. The need for lift comes from carb shape, especially the fuel lines in choke tower cast.


My cam's aggressive idle sound has suprised me some. Howard,s description was good idle, stong low-mid range....I Expected a bit more vacuum at idle, and more stock like sound. So far feels good, main thing there is torq justa above the idle too, makes driving more enjoyable.
This endine sounds suprisingly "cammed" or lumpy or racy whatever you call it but you can tell by idle it's no stock
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Old July 2nd, 2017, 11:16 AM
  #124  
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My custom cam from Cutlassefi has very good manners but even with 214/214 duration, degreed at 216 actual, it has a noticeable idle at 700 or 750 rpm. That is no doubt because of the tighter LSA. Did you get the Aerospace polymer main body?
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Old July 2nd, 2017, 11:44 AM
  #125  
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Originally Posted by olds 307 and 403
My custom cam from Cutlassefi has very good manners but even with 214/214 duration, degreed at 216 actual, it has a noticeable idle at 700 or 750 rpm.
Didn't know you got it up and running. How is it?
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Old July 2nd, 2017, 12:41 PM
  #126  
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Very nice Mark. Great torque and idles decent but noticeable at 700-750 rpm in gear. The custom Qjet is much better with this cam, like it was made for this cam. I ditched the Mallory distributor for now and I am using a near stock HEI. The replacement Mallory module is coming soon, not impressed with the MSD replacement modules for Mallory. Did you ever see a tach not work with a Hyfire 6AL setup? My Sunpro Super tach did not work with my Hyfire box.
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Old July 3rd, 2017, 01:12 AM
  #127  
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Originally Posted by olds 307 and 403
My custom cam from Cutlassefi has very good manners but even with 214/214 duration, degreed at 216 actual, it has a noticeable idle at 700 or 750 rpm. That is no doubt because of the tighter LSA. Did you get the Aerospace polymer main body?

I can believe your 214/214 has strong torq from low. How much lift do you have and how tight is the LSA? How much compression? Now when I have some experience with 219/228 duration, yours seem quite optimal for daily runner street machine. Mine is a tad on wild side.


I did not go with plastic bowl Street Demon. HI-Temps are not really problem here where I drive.


What do you mean by 216 actual? You can not make the duration longer by degreeing.
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Old July 3rd, 2017, 04:40 AM
  #128  
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I have just read your thread, and found it to be great. And as always Mark has given some great advice.
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Old July 3rd, 2017, 08:12 AM
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The cam specs out at 214/214 .472/.472 110 LSA 106 ICL Erson custom from Cutlassefi. The 350 has a stock 76 Olds 350 bottom end with gaskets, try that with a 70's sbc. Cloyes Street Roller timing set, degreed bang on. I picked up fresh rebuilt for $400 1970 #6 heads with $1200 work done. 2.05" intake valves, measured by me, all the bowls opened up, fresh valve job, new cast iron guides and upgraded springs. The heads measured 62-64CC, as they were milled some, pistons .025-.030" in the hole, .028" Rocket Racing head gaskets put right on 9 to 1 compression. Performer intake with a 1" open aluminum spacer, I opened it up to fit the plenum better. I am running a new stock HEI, Accel coil, will soon have an ignitor 3 module, 22 initial with a slow curve and 20 degree vacuum advance can off manifold vacuum. I was running a 30 can but had mild surging under load. I have a 2300 flash stall lock up converter, 2004R trans shifts around 4800-4900 rpm, stock 2.78 open Type O rear and 235/60R14 tires, around 1700 rpm at 60 mph. I plan on running either the 215/75 R14 or 225/70R14 tires and upgrading to a 3.90 posi rear next year. It burns the tires with ease and has good manners.

Last edited by olds 307 and 403; July 3rd, 2017 at 12:51 PM.
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