Radiator Replacement
#1
Radiator Replacement
My 72 442 (350) needs a new radiator (that first one lasted a paltry 38 years...). Mechanic wants to install a NAPA replacement. I've heard there are significant quality differences in aftermarket radiators...anyone have any experiences to share on what to buy or not to buy? Thanks in advance.
#2
I put a direct fit rad in my 71 /350. It looks great and works great too. the only problem i had was the lower saddles did not line up. i had to move one over a couple inches.it was an aluminum 4 core from summit for $ 279.00
#3
Below is the link to my aluminum radiator replacement install. So far so good. I also had to relocated the lower mounts as well.
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...r-install.html
d1
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...r-install.html
d1
#4
I believe the NAPA replacement radiators are made by Modine. Over the years I've used them on several cars and have had good fit and service life. Last time I checked though, the prices have gone up considerably.
#6
COOL! GOOD to know! So do they stock these routinely? Or how long did it take to get shipped in? (Did you have Modify the lower connections like the other guys had to w/ this new one though??) GOOD radiator shops are really getting hard to find these days!
Also; Do these newer Radiators come w/ a Warranty??
THANKS for the info!
Also; Do these newer Radiators come w/ a Warranty??
THANKS for the info!
#7
Count the tubes and count the fins. Make sure both are equal or more than the original.
Then take a flashlight and look into the inlet, outlet, and filler neck. Make sure you don't find anytubes soldered shut. Use a bent wire to poke into the end of a few tubes to be sure. I've seen brand new radiators with more than half the tubes soldered shut.
Then take a flashlight and look into the inlet, outlet, and filler neck. Make sure you don't find anytubes soldered shut. Use a bent wire to poke into the end of a few tubes to be sure. I've seen brand new radiators with more than half the tubes soldered shut.
#8
I just walked into O'reilly and bought it if I remember. I'm down there so often I know everyone and they help me like I'm a family member. NO modifications need to be done, this radiator just drops right in. Also, my car has 10.5:1 compression and 3.42 gears and I drive w/ high rpms down the highway and still keep cool. Was looking at the aluminum radiators, but did not want to chop or drill on my car to make it fit. Either that or the cost of some of the aluminum radiators were $800. I'm sure they work well, but man if I can get by with something much less I'll try. If anyone knows of a reasonably priced alum. rad. that drops right in, someday I might make the change over.
#9
Thanks all for the great advice! Mechanic got a copper/brass replacement (we'll see, anyway, on that "replacement" thing); I will follow the advice to check tubes and fins before installing.
#10
One more thing:
Make sure the petcock opens OK. I once had a petcock which was soldered shut. Fortunately I noticed before installing the radiator. I would've been PO'ed upon finding that the first time I tried to drain it 2 years later.
Make sure the petcock opens OK. I once had a petcock which was soldered shut. Fortunately I noticed before installing the radiator. I would've been PO'ed upon finding that the first time I tried to drain it 2 years later.
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