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Did you keep the rods and caps together? Also did you keep or mark the position of the main caps? They all need to go back together the same way they came apart.
I took one piston out at a time and put the cap back on them, they are numbered so I didn't bother noting it and the main caps are numbered as well so I didn't note that either, hope I didn't screw it up right out of the gate lol
Mark, how do the SBO Scat rods look, have got a set in hand and checked them dimensionally yet? Great to hear they are now available.
Good, big end didn’t need anything, small end was tight as normal. However they do have some offset unlike a stock Olds rod. But I think they’ll work with just about any piston combo.
Main caps should have cast in numbers. Once you keep the rods and caps together it really doesn’t matter where they go.
Last edited by cutlassefi; November 8th, 2020 at 04:53 PM.
The piston and rings will be Mahle, I'm this deep into it now, so the modern piston and ring is a no brainer. All though I appreciate Olds Performance giving me other options I want to use Marks parts for my major pieces, that will include cam, lifters, springs etc.. Here a cleaned up piston
so is it fine having offset..and is it the same size as a stock rod..do theses need honed for the pin or does the pin get honed
No real disadvantage on the offset other than you’ll need to check for interference around the pin boss area.
Virtually all rods need some touching up here and there.
Just an update on this, I'm still waiting on hearing back from the machine shop to see If I can build on it. He has a 454 he's doing atm, then its my turn. He's gonna tank it, inspect it and then the work can begin. My plan for him will be to bore the cylinders so I can use the 4.065 or the 4.100 Mahle piston. Fix and balance the crank, install new cam bearings, Align hone with ARP bolts, Square deck, have him look at re using the stock rods and rebuild my heads with bigger valves, all plugs
The Machinist has a 2500 deposit, I just ordered a 7111 rpm intake and Dura Bond 0-6B cam bearings and 2 quarts of Eastwood Olds gold ceramic paint, Cloyes Roller Timing Set 9-3513X9, FEL-BS6141 Rear Seal. I will order the pistons, cam, springs, lifters from Mark as soon as I no what ones, and for the cam I was thinking Erson TQ40 cam?
Last edited by skyhigh; November 29th, 2020 at 11:35 AM.
The sticker on the box says its a 7111 and that's what I ordered lol yeah your looking at the pic on the box Mark haha. And thanks for that info on the steel chunks.
Last edited by skyhigh; December 2nd, 2020 at 02:58 AM.
Good choice. Other than cost, there is no down side to a roller cam.
Yup you got it, really hurts being Canadian and converting to US dollars and shipping. But I MAW do it the way I want to this time around. I spent alot on the other motor and kept making it better and it is fun to drive now but the real issue is those damn pistons lol. this time around I don't wanna have I should have done this and should have done that. I have a fun motor to use while I build this one up. As you no we have long winters so I have lots of time to make it nice and do the swap in the summer.
Few more parts I picked up, Expansion plug kit, Timing Cover seal.
Last edited by skyhigh; December 14th, 2020 at 12:30 PM.
These are budget builds and there is quite an advantage in saving money in certain areas and allocating it into others. The factory small block Oldsmobile connecting rods are extremely strong. They can with stand 500 HP and 7500 rpms for many many years without issue. They'll set you back about 50 to 75 bucks on a good second hand set. We offer a significant amount of camshafts into the Oldsmobile industry. 8-11 per week. Many custom grinds. We also suggest on many occasions to stay with a hydraulic tapet or a mechanical tapet, as there is very good value dollar per dollar. A hydraulic tapet will be right there in power with a hydraulic roller. Not noticeable enough to warrant the additional 450-600 bucks. Just don't grab your oil off a shelf in walmart. Invest in an oil with the proper amount of zinc and phos. This you should be doing regardless of cam choice. Money saved could be allocated into other areas that will show huge dividends. Filling of the heat crossover, the 2.07 intake valve and bowl work. You've now just blew the torque and hp figures away in relation to the slight power increase of a hydraulic roller vs. a hydraulic tapet. Mechanical tapet applications are within that same price range as a hydraulic tapet, and yields the most power and torque outcome when comparing the three. In certain cases it will even out preform a mechanical roller. Our builds and videos can be seen on our social media facebook site. @Olds Performance and Machine.
Last edited by Olds Performance Machine; December 12th, 2020 at 05:13 PM.
Yup you got it, really hurts being Canadian and converting to US dollars and shipping. But I MAW do it the way I want to this time around. I spent alot on the other motor and kept making it better and it is fun to drive now but the real issue is those damn pistons lol. this time around I don't wanna have I should have done this and should have done that. I have a fun motor to use while I build this one up. As you no we have long winters so I have lots of time to make it nice and do the swap in the summer.
It sure does hurt to be Canadian buying parts, in the same boat.
Last edited by olds 307 and 403; December 12th, 2020 at 08:56 PM.
Location: Colorado Springs Colorado/Thousand Oaks Ca
Posts: 1,722
Originally Posted by Olds Performance Machine
These are budget builds and there is quite an advantage in saving money in certain areas and allocating it into others. The factory small block Oldsmobile connecting rods are extremely strong. They can with stand 500 HP and 7500 rpms for many many years without issue. They'll set you back about 50 to 75 bucks on a good second hand set. We offer a significant amount of camshafts into the Oldsmobile industry. 8-11 per week. Many custom grinds. We also suggest on many occasions to stay with a hydraulic tapet or a mechanical tapet, as there is very good value dollar per dollar. A hydraulic tapet will be right there in power with a hydraulic roller. Not noticeable enough to warrant the additional 450-600 bucks. Just don't grab your oil off a shelf in walmart. Invest in an oil with the proper amount of zinc and phos. This you should be doing regardless of cam choice. Money saved could be allocated into other areas that will show huge dividends. Filling of the heat crossover, the 2.07 intake valve and bowl work. You've now just blew the torque and hp figures away in relation to the slight power increase of a hydraulic roller vs. a hydraulic tapet. Mechanical tapet applications are within that same price range as a hydraulic tapet, and yields the most power and torque outcome when comparing the three. In certain cases it will even out preform a mechanical roller. Our builds and videos can be seen on our social media facebook site. @Olds Performance and Machine.
Location: Colorado Springs Colorado/Thousand Oaks Ca
Posts: 1,722
Originally Posted by olds 307 and 403
Olds factory connecting rods are soft. I would not build a 500 hp motor with them.
I doubt Andy would be hydraulicing any of his builds. I've used Oldsmobile rods on every 455 I've ever built for myself, never a problem. I know for a fact Andy has a track record racing Oldsmobiles and has been fast, I'd pay attention to his posts.
Last edited by VORTECPRO; December 14th, 2020 at 05:44 PM.
Location: Colorado Springs Colorado/Thousand Oaks Ca
Posts: 1,722
Originally Posted by olds 307 and 403
So Bill Travato is an idiot too?
I'm sure that Andy wouldn't have any problem building a reliable 500 HP Olds using the parts listed above. Fact is he has examples of his drag race builds, and they are fast, and from what I've seen as fast as any in the Olds world. I don't feel BT is a idiot, I think he's one of the higher end Olds builders.
Location: Colorado Springs Colorado/Thousand Oaks Ca
Posts: 1,722
Originally Posted by olds 307 and 403
From Bill's book.
My 455s never made 550 HP. I don't resize any Olds rod aftermarket or production round to start with, never have because I know better. Of course I've never checked a production Olds rod after it was run, thanks for the post.
Last edited by VORTECPRO; December 14th, 2020 at 06:22 PM.
Real world experience. Over 7000 passes in a period from 1982 to 1999. 7800 rpms. At times racing 3 times a week. (wed, Sat, Sun) 9.76-9.77 et. As slow as 9.98. MPH from 130-133.5. 540-545HP.
Still at minimum 40 years old. There is new better rods out there, now direct replacement. Glad you had success. Some have 0 issues with flat tappet cams others, not so much. Pretty sure my mild hydraulic cam is losing a lobe.
Location: Colorado Springs Colorado/Thousand Oaks Ca
Posts: 1,722
I think the reason you get pushback from me on this is, back in the day we had to learn how to make production parts work in Stock and Super Stock because you had use stock parts, which made me tend not to be a bubble packer, I like to think out of the box when machining and building engines.
I made the decision to use the Hyd Roller myself, its not a money decision on my part obviously but I wanted to modernize what I can , while I can. I will most likely upgrade the rods as well, Bernard M has some nice scat rods for 475.00 I think I seen that on FB. Soon as I hear back from my machinist I will be getting the pistons next..
Cutlassefi is $50 US cheaper on the rods, he put the price in this thread. The same reason I am also going with the hydraulic roller as well. Reliabity, better manners and vacuum for a given duration over a flat tappet cam. Pretty sure my mild 214/214 cam is losing a lobe. It started ticking out of the blue, I used the SL rated Quarker State Defy with ZDDP additive. The only thing I didn't check was the upgraded springs, supposedly BBC single springs on the fully rebuilt #6 heads I picked up cheap. Maybe too stiff of tension during break in. Plus if you have troubles getting it going during fire up, almost no chance of a lobe disappearing. I am curious if your crank can be saved. Where in Canada are you? I do have a good 330 crank and flex plate I would part with for a fair price.
I think the reason you get pushback from me on this is, back in the day we had to learn how to make production parts work in Stock and Super Stock because you had use stock parts, which made me tend not to be a bubble packer, I like to think out of the box when machining and building engines.
Really. So your “out of the box” thinking was probably using 366 BBC rods that you can’t break if they’re bring pulled apart by two Mack trucks? Or maybe Chevy Pink rods, or even stockers? Either way your STOCK Chevy parts don’t compare to what we have to work with in the Olds community. Apples and watermelons comparison.
You should be a politician cuz you never tell the whole, real story.
Location: Colorado Springs Colorado/Thousand Oaks Ca
Posts: 1,722
Originally Posted by cutlassefi
Really. So your “out of the box” thinking was probably using 366 BBC rods that you can’t break if they’re bring pulled apart by two Mack trucks? Or maybe Chevy Pink rods, or even stockers? Either way your STOCK Chevy parts don’t compare to what we have to work with in the Olds community. Apples and watermelons comparison.
You should be a politician cuz you never tell the whole, real story.
I always used factory 455 Olds rods in my 455s, oval honed, never had any bearing problems ever. Just posting what worked for me. That doesn't mean what I do is for everybody.
Cutlassefi is $50 US cheaper on the rods, he put the price in this thread. The same reason I am also going with the hydraulic roller as well. Reliabity, better manners and vacuum for a given duration over a flat tappet cam. Pretty sure my mild 214/214 cam is losing a lobe. It started ticking out of the blue, I used the SL rated Quarker State Defy with ZDDP additive. The only thing I didn't check was the upgraded springs, supposedly BBC single springs on the fully rebuilt #6 heads I picked up cheap. Maybe too stiff of tension during break in. Plus if you have troubles getting it going during fire up, almost no chance of a lobe disappearing. I am curious if your crank can be saved. Where in Canada are you? I do have a good 330 crank and flex plate I would part with for a fair price.
Well When I dropped the parts off he was sure he could clean it up, I will find out when I get some shop time lol. Thanks for the offer and if it boils down to that I will hit ya up. I'm right on the border with Port Huron Michigan, a little town called Sarnia
We can work out a deal, not going to ask much. It is .020" mains and .010" rods and the journals look good. If shipping isn't beyond horrible, which it might be.
Well the activator showed up and no paint from Eastwood, checked there website and it says no olds gold until the middle of February lol. Expansion plug kit should be here tomorrow, I don't see any holes for the timing chain and distributor plugs, so am I correct there needs to be 0.40 holes drilled in the rock auto kit?
Skyhigh---I assume you are talking Olds Gold paint for the engine? Have you checked with Thornton Muscle Cars? I ordered my Olds original blue paint from them. It's also sold on Ebay. Check out this link:
Skyhigh---I assume you are talking Olds Gold paint for the engine? Have you checked with Thornton Muscle Cars? I ordered my Olds original blue paint from them. It's also sold on Ebay. Check out this link:
Yeah I got 2 quarts of the olds gold for the 350, I like the ceramic paint, It will lay down nice with an HVLP, using a rattle can paint is always my last choice of paints. But thanks alot for that tidbit.
Last edited by skyhigh; December 17th, 2020 at 01:30 PM.
Sounds like a better way to go for painting the motor. The Duplicolor Gold spray paint in cans is awful, only thing readily available here. Is there multiple sources of close matching Olds gold in cans that can be thinned for HVLP painting?
Its about finding the right high heat paint to use, Ceramic is up to the task and Eastwood did a good job n the color match, its good up to 650F, you can walk into any industrial paint store and get your paint tinted whatever color floats your boat, I could have went into PPG and got them to mix me up some but the price was right, got a good deal on black friday with free shipping as well. When the motor swap happens I will get the headers and bring them to my shop and give them a blast and spray them with some high heat aluminum, its good up to 1200F, look for high heat paint with silicone in it for headers, and that it has a fortifier(Hardner)(Activator) whatever you wanna call it lol, If not, typically it wont dry fully unless its in service or baked. BTW I always thin(Reduce) my paint, even when using an airless, only time I don't is when I use a plural pump and you spraying 100% solids.
Last edited by skyhigh; December 18th, 2020 at 08:08 AM.
November 8th, 2020, 01:09 PM
