Lubricating Crank assembly before installing Oil Pan
#1
Lubricating Crank assembly before installing Oil Pan
Okay, thought occured to me since the motor has been sitting on a stand for a while without any oil or oil pan. There is residual oil on the connecting rods and crankshaft (everything is assembled--never taken apart) as the rest has dripped off. Do you guys lubricate this area before installing an oil pan/oil?? Should I use a thick oil treatment oil (like STP) to coat this assembly? My concern is after I get the motor in and upon initial start up this area might be to "dry" before the oil from the pan starts circulating.
Figured I'd err on the side of caution and get the consensus of those who have done this before.
d1
Figured I'd err on the side of caution and get the consensus of those who have done this before.
d1
#3
#4
Yes that is what I'm talking about. Take the valve covers off and prime till you get oil to all the rockers. Also need to rotate the motor to get oil to both sides. Also remember shaft turns counterclock wise.
#5
It the motor has been run before and is just sitting, there is probably a surprising amount of oil in those bearings. You could use the drill method, but you'd probably be fine just cranking it for 30 seconds or so with the spark plugs out, until the gauge shows you've got oil pressure.
- Eric
- Eric
#7
It the motor has been run before and is just sitting, there is probably a surprising amount of oil in those bearings. You could use the drill method, but you'd probably be fine just cranking it for 30 seconds or so with the spark plugs out, until the gauge shows you've got oil pressure.
- Eric
- Eric
#8
#11
Don't bother lubricating the outside of the rods, etc. Just cylinder walls, bearings, etc. I have never used a drill; I use duct tape to positively retain a deep well 1/4 drive 5/16 socket (deep well so if it did come off it would be easier to retrieve) and about an 8" extension, and turn the ratchet until I hear oil spuirting and a lot of resistance to turning. I assume you put cam lube on the cam lobes and lifter feet, and oil on the lifter bores.
#12
Don't bother lubricating the outside of the rods, etc. Just cylinder walls, bearings, etc. I have never used a drill; I use duct tape to positively retain a deep well 1/4 drive 5/16 socket (deep well so if it did come off it would be easier to retrieve) and about an 8" extension, and turn the ratchet until I hear oil spuirting and a lot of resistance to turning. I assume you put cam lube on the cam lobes and lifter feet, and oil on the lifter bores.
I cut the handle of of a 5/16 nut driver and run it with my drill or impact wrench. Cant lose it with that long shank!!
#13
Don't bother lubricating the outside of the rods, etc. Just cylinder walls, bearings, etc. I have never used a drill; I use duct tape to positively retain a deep well 1/4 drive 5/16 socket (deep well so if it did come off it would be easier to retrieve) and about an 8" extension, and turn the ratchet until I hear oil spuirting and a lot of resistance to turning. I assume you put cam lube on the cam lobes and lifter feet, and oil on the lifter bores.
Thanks for the tip.
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costpenn
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May 27th, 2015 06:43 PM