Drsantos

Any recommendation on a set of aux gauges for oil, temp and volt readings? Also are the available ports on the engine or do I have to tee of the idiot light sensors.
1969 Cutlass Rocket 350

Fun71

I like the 270º sweep gauges as I think they're easier to read at a glance.

Something such as this:




If you have the factory intake manifold, there aren't any places to install the water temp sender without removing something to make room. On my cars (when they had the factory intake), I removed the TCS and put the water temp sender in that port. With aftermarket intakes, there are additional ports that can be used for the temp sender.

For the oil pressure, you can T off the port for the idiot light.

Drsantos

Thanks for the link just what i am looking for. in this photo is the sensor near the water pump (lower) the oil sensor, also is the one above water should the blue wire be connected there (why are there 2 tangs)

Fun71

Yes, the one on the shelf behind the water pump is the oil sensor and the one beside the thermostat housing is the water temp sensor.
The wire should be connected to the water temp sensor for the HOT light to work properly, but two terminals on that sensor make me think it's not be the right one for your car. Maybe that's why the wire is disconnected?

Drsantos

Does the green wire go to the water sensor, i believe it's wrong in the photo

oldcutlass

Yes the green wire goes to the Temp sensor. I prefer to just stow the wires for the stock idiot lights as the resulting T and other mods to keep the Temp sensor are a pain and unsightly. The gauges are more accurate.

Jamesbo

Just don't install an amp meter, Please don't ask me how I know

Fun71

I won't ask as it's likely similar to what happened with my brother-in-law's '68 GTO one night while we were headed down a 2 lane highway on a camping trip.

I learned from that and put inline fuses on each side of the feed wires at the horn relay junction stud on my car.

I also learned that 12 ounce beverage cans, when shaken vigorously, can be used as under-the-dash fire extinguishers.

Jamesbo

I shoulda had a 6 pack

oldcutlass

That was a sad day... RIP H/O

therobski

Here's a few ideas for you I got from another Club member here. I kept the "idiot" lights for the water temp and oil pressure. The oil pressure parts including the copper line from the unit to the gauge I bought at home depot.Looks neat and clean and it's like a redundancy plan, if one fails the other should work...and it does I have been having overheating issues and when the engine gets hot the light comes on the dash too. I chose not to use the plastic oil pressure line that came with the gauges. I removed my ammeter gauge for a gas gauge.

2olds

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/atm-2399/overview/

2olds

Drsantos

oldcutlass

Not with a stock intake.

Drsantos

Isn't there a electrical sender that could be used?

redoldsman

Be sure your water sensor is down in the intake. You cannot put a tee in for the water sensor like you can for the oil pressure.

JohnnyBs68S

My 350-2bbl intake has a 2nd location for a temp sensor on the passenger side of the thermostat housing. That's where I put my temp sensor.

Rocketguy

Some 60s cars cars had a two prong sender; one for the Hot lamp and one for the Cold lamp. If you don't mind the way it looks just be sure to connect the wire to the correct prong.

I'd also use the full sweep mechanical gauges, and go for the larger 2-5/8" size. I like the Stewart Warner gauges with the black face.

I'd also keep the warning lamps working, meaning use one provision on your intake for the lamp and the other for the capillary gauge line. If your engine gets hot you want to be altered if you aren't watching the gauge.

The oil is a bit more work. I think the T fittings at the water pump are ugly, and if you want your car to look stock, well. . . I drill and tap the oil filter adapter, and run a copper line along the back of the engine and up through the bottom of the firewall.