When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
My personal experience with most aftermarket fuel pumps is that they are all iffy when it comes to reliability. When it comes to reliable, nothing beats an OEM pump, and here Walbro is probably the best as they are an OEM supplier, except that they are all EFI pumps, which I guess you can use with a return line and a special regulator. What I have used in high HP street cars that has been reliable has been the RobbMC mechanical fuel pumps. never used one in an olds engine, but I have used them in other engines including a T bucket I had with a 351C with an 8-71 blower and dual Holleys. they have a 550 HP and 1000 HP versions. https://www.robbmcperformance.com/products/olds550.html
Hi Guys, I was wondering if I can plug in to this topic. My 463 build was recently shipped by Mark, and I was informed that mechanical fuel setup wont be suitable for it, because of heads clearance and lack of supply for this power level. Motor makes 540hp and 595 lbs, carb is 850cfm. So I'm standing before decision about which way to go. I need electric pump setup. I want to keep original gas tank in my 1968 cutlass and i have new sending unit with return (before I was assured that mechanical pump with return will do). Car will be used for street fun, many burnouts, maybe light racing from time to time. I live in Poland, so I need dependable solution, because of the distance - shipping takes at least 2 weeks for parts. So I was wondering - Can you help me decide what brand and type system to go?
I need full fuel system to the carb. So pump, relay, fuse, pre-filter, after-filter, joints, pressure regulator - please correct me if I forgot something.
On one hand I would really like internal pump - I heard they're quieter, runs cooler, last longer. But not every system will work on OEM style gas tank - it has ribs on, so systems with provision opening won't work i think. I don't know if putting fuel pump to OE style sending unit is possible - because of level sensor and opening size on the tank - like I said - I'm a noobie on this - never had a chance to do something like that. Hydramat would be a good idea?
On the other hand putting an external pump seems to be much easier, but I've heard that they're loud, and run hot. Will I need to do some kind of outlet on lower side of the tank to feed it? or can i be fed by outlet from sending unit? I'll it pull/lift fuel, or can that cause it to fail?
So I guess guys, please help me out to decide which way to go and what parts to buy? (brands?)
Thanks in advance for any input!
I am in the same boat you are, and I honestly advise to go the route I did (scroll up for itemized products to get this done). TanksInc was very helpful!
Finally got the car out this week and it is strong! Exhaust was only installed past mufflers and terminated with turn downs before axle as the @$%$##^ing Magnafuel fuel pump is too dam big to allow clearance for the tailpipes over the axle. Tried to relocate it a few inches to allow tailpipe/trumpet installation but now the rear differential hits it once rear springs compress more than 1 inch. I'm done with this pump and need to get on with my life. My gut tells me I should have gone with the Tanks Inc approach from Day 1, although I wonder if there's a smaller pump that I can swap in there as a faster solution. Looks like at least one of you on this thread did go for the Tanks Inc approach and I'd love to hear how that went. I lept before I looked a few times too many on this project and need to get this decision right.
I have the tanks Inc tank, sender and 255lph pump in my car and am very happy with it. I have roughly 4k miles on the setup now and haven't had any serious issues. I have noticed that under 1/4 tank a full throttle pull will occasionally cause fuel starvation so I keep it over 1/2 tank if I plan on getting on it too hard. Keep in mind this is with a fuel injected 370 LS engine, making quite a bit less power than you have.
That said, the Holley drop-in pump that is available now for stock tanks looks very interesting too.
Last edited by ach1992880; August 29th, 2019 at 01:17 PM.
Finally got the car out this week and it is strong! Exhaust was only installed past mufflers and terminated with turn downs before axle as the @$%$##^ing Magnafuel fuel pump is too dam big to allow clearance for the tailpipes over the axle. Tried to relocate it a few inches to allow tailpipe/trumpet installation but now the rear differential hits it once rear springs compress more than 1 inch. I'm done with this pump and need to get on with my life. My gut tells me I should have gone with the Tanks Inc approach from Day 1, although I wonder if there's a smaller pump that I can swap in there as a faster solution. Looks like at least one of you on this thread did go for the Tanks Inc approach and I'd love to hear how that went. I lept before I looked a few times too many on this project and need to get this decision right.
Go the TanksInc. route with the internal electric fuel pump. Simple, saves space, quiet, and works great.
Originally Posted by ach1992880
I have the tanks Inc tank, sender and 255lph pump in my car and am very happy with it. I have roughly 4k miles on the setup now and haven't had any serious issues. I have noticed that under 1/4 tank a full throttle pull will occasionally cause fuel starvation so I keep it over 1/2 tank if I plan on getting on it too hard. Keep in mind this is with a fuel injected 370 LS engine, making quite a bit less power than you have.
That said, the Holley drop-in pump that is available now for stock tanks looks very interesting too.
Another happy customer!
Do you have the updated/newer gas tank from TanksInc.? It has baffles to prevent fuel starvation and no problems with that like you're stating.
I purchased mine back in 2014 and honestly can't remember what sort of baffling is inside my tank. I was doing so many things on the car at once I don't recall looking inside at the baffling. In a carbureted application like yours a momentary cavitation won't affect the engine though due to having reserves in the float bowls. Even with the couple of times it has happened to me I wouldn't hesitate to make the same purchase again. The pump is quiet and it all drops right in place.
Fill me in Ryan. What I’m “trying to do” is get my car on the road before it’s time to put it in the garage for the winter. The E85 conversion kicked my butt. Mainly the Magnafuel pump which clearly is not meant to be installed in a ‘68 442. I should have stopped digging when the tuner told me to just install it in the trunk next to my fuel cell. Fuel cell? Is everything a race car to an engine builder? Bottom line is I wasn’t smart enough to realize this was a dead end but I have to move on. Why would the Tanks INC tank be any different than the reproduction tank I just put in? Am I missing something?
Just spoke with Tanks. The new tanks are baffled to correct the starvation issues. I’m sold. Parts ordered. If anyone wants a smokin’ deal on a new Magnafuel pump it’s coming off this weekend.
I purchased mine back in 2014 and honestly can't remember what sort of baffling is inside my tank. I was doing so many things on the car at once I don't recall looking inside at the baffling. In a carbureted application like yours a momentary cavitation won't affect the engine though due to having reserves in the float bowls. Even with the couple of times it has happened to me I wouldn't hesitate to make the same purchase again. The pump is quiet and it all drops right in place.
Yes, you have the unbaffled one. Look on their website now as they still sell the 'old' style but the newer design is baffled and solves the starvation issue.
Originally Posted by teamwieland
Just spoke with Tanks. The new tanks are baffled to correct the starvation issues. I’m sold. Parts ordered. If anyone wants a smokin’ deal on a new Magnafuel pump it’s coming off this weekend.
Be sure that you will get the “new” style tank when ordering. The clipped corner tank is safe as they all have the new baffling. The stock appearing square tank could possibly be the old style if it sat on someone’s shelf for a year or more, be sure what they will be shipping to you.
I had nothing but trouble with my older version tank, the new tank solved my problems.
Be sure that you will get the “new” style tank when ordering. The clipped corner tank is safe as they all have the new baffling. The stock appearing square tank could possibly be the old style if it sat on someone’s shelf for a year or more, be sure what they will be shipping to you.
I had nothing but trouble with my older version tank, the new tank solved my problems.
This.
Originally Posted by ach1992880
You'll be happy with the end results. Good decision.
72GoldOlds350 I am going the Tanks INC route. Looking for updates on how you installed regulator and bypass setup. I have a nonbypass regulator in my engine compartment now from my earlier install which won’t work now. Pics would be awesome but I’ll take any hints you’re willing to share. I have -8AN hose in the oem fuel line routing but no way I could get a bypass line in there also.
I used my existing 3/8” steel line as the return line and ran a new aluminum 1/2” line right along side by adding an opposing clip on the same bolt as each original. In other words at each fuel line retaining bolt there is a clip pointing downward holding the return line & a clip pointed upward holding the supply line. Ideally they should both be 1/2” but I haven’t had any issues. I use all AN or JIC style flare fittings for fuel lines other than the hose connections @ tank & transitions in/out of engine crossmember. You may have to loosen left side body mount bolts & remove right side bolts to lift the body up if you plan to mirror the original line @ rear of car. You can run hard line or AN hose slightly different above rear wheel if you choose to.
I think you might be able get a piece of hard line for return through the engine crossmember passage with a little finesse. If not, find a prudent alternative to route it and/or locate bypass regulator alternatively. IIRC I put fuel hose over my aluminum line (likely resulting in slightly larger diameter than your hose) for abrasion protection in crossmember passage & had no issue with space for the 3/8 steel line in there as well. My regulator is mounted to front of my passenger side cylinder head unlike most.
Last edited by bccan; September 20th, 2019 at 07:22 PM.
It might have been there but one thing I did not see on this thread is the mention of an installation of a oil pressure switch to shut the fuel pump off. Without this you run the risk of burning a car up. It is about 30 bucks for cheap insurance.
It might have been there but one thing I did not see on this thread is the mention of an installation of a oil pressure switch to shut the fuel pump off. Without this you run the risk of burning a car up. It is about 30 bucks for cheap insurance.
@bccan got any pics to share? Not familiar with JIC fittings. Thinking I will put the new bypass regulator in fender well where I had last one so I can at least keep the last 3 feet to the carb the same. It was a lot of work getting the 8AN fuel hose in the stock routing above the rear shock without removing body bushings. I’m willing to remove that if I have a good plan. I might be able to fit a hardline through the engine crossmember with the AN hose but no chance of going over the rear shock as well. Pics would be awesome if you are willing.
I’ll see what I can do, may take a a day or two. Hopefully my kid (owner of red car) comes by & can take a few minutes to move cars around. I can easily get you the engine bay pic but that’s the easiest part.
I just had half my pelvis & right leg amputated 3 weeks ago so I’m a bit limited but I showed my Olds dedication by having a friend drive me to the New England Olds Club show in my car yesterday where I managed to spend a few hours seeing lots of friends & sweet cars. Felt good to get out somewhere.
The JIC fittings are basically a steel version of AN fittings that tend to be industrial app for hydraulic lines in steel or heavy hose.
Last edited by bccan; September 16th, 2019 at 09:51 PM.
TanksInc tank installed and re-plumbed with bypass regulator on fender well. Looking for ideas on how to feed the Holley 4150 from there. I do need dual 6AN feeds from regulator, or an 8AN into a dual feed at carb. I have a dual feed on carb now but it is just a 6AN inlet, which is all I could find online. Also, I do have a fuel distribution block on regulator outlet, although I don’t like mounting it there and am having trouble identifying a good location for it. Would love ideas on a smart way to finish the last mile Bypass regulator on fender well with distribution block hard mounted 6AN Dual Feed. No issues other than inadequate at WOT for more than 6-7 seconds running E85. Distribution block mounted for photo only. Not sure I like it mounted there. Some space on firewall. Mount distribution block there?
That is a nice setup @Rallye469. Is that a bypass regulator? Battenrunner contacted me with a suggestion to put a fuel log on the carb and then have the regulator after the carb. I usually see the regulator before the carb but that suggestion makes a lot of sense to me as well. I can definitely flip the regulator and have the distribution block moving rearward, but the 6AN lines I had made for my previous setup are long enough to reach the carb regardless of which way the block is pointed. I would have to secure the distribution block better to make it a long term situation, but I prefer to not use one if possible.
That is a nice setup @Rallye469. Is that a bypass regulator? Battenrunner contacted me with a suggestion to put a fuel log on the carb and then have the regulator after the carb. I usually see the regulator before the carb but that suggestion makes a lot of sense to me as well. I can definitely flip the regulator and have the distribution block moving rearward, but the 6AN lines I had made for my previous setup are long enough to reach the carb regardless of which way the block is pointed. I would have to secure the distribution block better to make it a long term situation, but I prefer to not use one if possible
Thank you.
Yes, it’s a bypass regulator. It has 4 ports(inlet/return/2 feeds/outlets)
I don’t really see the benefit to running a log when you can have ALL the fuel you need by running 2 individual lines.
Now...if you really don’t need the additional fuel I’m sure there’s no problem.
Does your regulator have only 2 ports? (Hence the need for the distribution block?)
Maybe thats why he suggested a log. Going from 1 to 2 at the distribution block is the same as going from 1 to 2 closer to carb(log).
But putting the regulator AFTER the log...that makes me scratch my head and wonder why?
If you place the regulator AFTER the carb...how do you know how much the carb is seeing? It could result in you having too much pressure TO the carb if it’s taking a reading after the carb.
I’ve always read and followed th advice to have all fuel come into the regulator, then have the shortest, straightest, most direct lines to the carb. Here’s a close up.
(the other line goes to a fuel pressure gauge in my cowl)
Yeah my regulator only has two ports. When I ordered my Tanks INC setup I had him throw in a bypass regulator not thinking far enough ahead to get one with enough ports. I did some research after talking to Battenrunner and the regulator can go before or after. The advantage of putting it after is more fuel circulation by the carburetor for cooler fuel. I’m just trying to get a relatively clean setup at this point that works. If I get a fuel log I can keep my regulator and build from there. If I clean it up like yours I need to get another regulator. Appreciate the pics.
I’ve looked over numerous fuel system diagrams and do indeed see the regulator mounted after the carb on a few...
but those systems all have a return line...not a deadhead system like yours.
Not sure if thats a must for mounting regulator after the log/carb...but it’s something you should investigate.
Just google “fuel system diagram” and see for yourself.
What’s your tank to pump system look like/consist of?
-pete
Pete, I had a non-bypass regulator on my original set up since I was running a magna fuel pump that had a bypass built into it. The tanks Inc. set up required me to get a bypass regulator which is what I have. I just don’t have enough ports to run to outlets to the carburetor. I had a non-bypass regulator on my original set up since I was running a magna fuel pump that had a bypass built into it. The tanks Inc. set up required me to get a bypass regulator which is what I have now. I just don’t have enough ports to run two outlets to the carburetor. I was able to keep my 8 AN hose which I ran in the stock fuel line routing. I had to add a bypass line from the engine compartment so I used 1/2” aluminum hard line. I’m learning that aluminum might have an issue with e85 but not sure yet.
June 2nd, 2019, 12:29 AM
