Can someone tell me about this engine
#6
Depends on what your goal, this would have "windowed" main bearing webs so it wouldn't be as strong as a 76 or earlier 350 block. For reasonable street performance it should be fine. Replacing the heads with earlier ones such as #5, 6, or 7's would wake it up.
Does it run?
On the pad on the block, not the head just below the #1 spark plug are numbers that will tell the year.
Good luck!!!
Does it run?
On the pad on the block, not the head just below the #1 spark plug are numbers that will tell the year.
Good luck!!!
#7
Depends on what your goal, this would have "windowed" main bearing webs so it wouldn't be as strong as a 76 or earlier 350 block. For reasonable street performance it should be fine. Replacing the heads with earlier ones such as #5, 6, or 7's would wake it up.
Does it run?
On the pad on the block, not the head just below the #1 spark plug are numbers that will tell the year.
Good luck!!!
Does it run?
On the pad on the block, not the head just below the #1 spark plug are numbers that will tell the year.
Good luck!!!
#8
Swap the gears first. If you're not satisfied, then stick headers on it. If you're still not satisfied, swap in a cam, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 7a heads, and a Performer RPM intake.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1966-Oldsmo...t/132860831229
Also....make sure you're running oil with some zinc in it. Valvoline VR-1 is good. Or, liqui-moli additive.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1966-Oldsmo...t/132860831229
Also....make sure you're running oil with some zinc in it. Valvoline VR-1 is good. Or, liqui-moli additive.
#9
Swap the gears first. If you're not satisfied, then stick headers on it. If you're still not satisfied, swap in a cam, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 7a heads, and a Performer RPM intake.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1966-Oldsmo...t/132860831229
Also....make sure you're running oil with some zinc in it. Valvoline VR-1 is good. Or, liqui-moli additive.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1966-Oldsmo...t/132860831229
Also....make sure you're running oil with some zinc in it. Valvoline VR-1 is good. Or, liqui-moli additive.
#10
That's going to be a tough call. My bet is that car has a 2.56 open O axle in it. He'd be better off finding a complete chevelle axle and building that to what he wants. It will be much easier to find parts for it.
If it were me I'd start with a different engine, but that's just me. Even a 403 would be a better starting point. And it's not as simple as just bolting on the earlier heads because of the difference on bolt and dowel pin sizes. The early heads used 7/16" head bolts and a smaller dowel pin, where the later heads used 1/2" head bolts and a larger dowel pin. Machine work would need to be performed on the older heads to make them fit.
Personally I'd look for a good rebuildable 455 and go for it, but again, that's just me.
If it were me I'd start with a different engine, but that's just me. Even a 403 would be a better starting point. And it's not as simple as just bolting on the earlier heads because of the difference on bolt and dowel pin sizes. The early heads used 7/16" head bolts and a smaller dowel pin, where the later heads used 1/2" head bolts and a larger dowel pin. Machine work would need to be performed on the older heads to make them fit.
Personally I'd look for a good rebuildable 455 and go for it, but again, that's just me.
#12
As said, the worst Olds 350 made. Crappy flowing, crack prone heads and windowed main web block. That carb also is questionable, many on here have issues with them. A 68 to 76 350 is a much better starting point. Cutlassefi's 350 stroker crank, puts down big numbers without the 455 bottom end issues.
#13
#14
I'd like to suggest you try to get this engine going. Don't worry about its assumed weakness. Nobody seems to like them like red headed step children, but it could give you many smiles to the gallon. This will give you the opportunity to concentrate on other car related projects....and have fun.
#15
I'd like to suggest you try to get this engine going. Don't worry about its assumed weakness. Nobody seems to like them like red headed step children, but it could give you many smiles to the gallon. This will give you the opportunity to concentrate on other car related projects....and have fun.
.....Just my two cents worth.
#16
#17
I'd like to suggest you try to get this engine going. Don't worry about its assumed weakness. Nobody seems to like them like red headed step children, but it could give you many smiles to the gallon. This will give you the opportunity to concentrate on other car related projects....and have fun.
#18
X3 on getting it running first and do a compression test to get an idea of its condition. Don't give up on it just because it is a 77-80 windowed main block; but, also don't try to get a ton of power from it either. If it needs any valve work consider putting older heads on it to raise the compression and get better flow. Higher compression will support a cam upgrade, sound better and run stronger.
Forum members myself included, offer suggestions and advice but remember, it is YOUR car, YOUR money and YOUR time. Consider what we say/offer/advise and then decide what YOU want to do with YOUR car to get the most enjoyment you can out of it.
Good luck!!!
Forum members myself included, offer suggestions and advice but remember, it is YOUR car, YOUR money and YOUR time. Consider what we say/offer/advise and then decide what YOU want to do with YOUR car to get the most enjoyment you can out of it.
Good luck!!!
#19
X3 on getting it running first and do a compression test to get an idea of its condition. Don't give up on it just because it is a 77-80 windowed main block; but, also don't try to get a ton of power from it either. If it needs any valve work consider putting older heads on it to raise the compression and get better flow. Higher compression will support a cam upgrade, sound better and run stronger.
Forum members myself included, offer suggestions and advice but remember, it is YOUR car, YOUR money and YOUR time. Consider what we say/offer/advise and then decide what YOU want to do with YOUR car to get the most enjoyment you can out of it.
Good luck!!!
Forum members myself included, offer suggestions and advice but remember, it is YOUR car, YOUR money and YOUR time. Consider what we say/offer/advise and then decide what YOU want to do with YOUR car to get the most enjoyment you can out of it.
Good luck!!!
#20
#22
#23
Those wheels use a shank lug nut, you need the correct lug nuts, you do not need longer studs. Look here: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/c...21-4/overview/
#24
The studs should extend past the outer surface of the wheel for proper structural attachment. Yeah you can get away without changing the studs. That doesn't mean it's a smart thing to do.
#25
The SST wheels require a specific shank lug nut that negates that requirement. They were designed to be used with factory studs.
#31
How did the colour look on the old plugs? Your carb may be on the rich side and the stumble you are seeing may be the non adjustable secondary air door on your Edelbrock, Carter AFB clone 625 cfm carb.
#34
#38
Okay another question the mechanical fuel pump I have a inline fuel filter just before my carb it will prime up and run but after sitting a whyle the fuel filter is drained so that means my fuel pump is letting fuel seep out of the pump right in other words I need a pump
#40
I have the same engine in my 71 Cutlass, if you can get it running I would use it until you can find an older 350 or 455 engine but I wouldn’t put much money into that particular engine they just aren’t that impressive for power and even if you were to change say the camshaft to get more power wouldn’t be worth it, I am currently building a 71 350 engine with up grades of course then the 77-80 engine is coming out!