When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I just bought an 88 cutlass from out of state, sight unseen. The car is clean but she doesn't run well. The car will be a weekend fun cruiser while the funds are saved up to make it into a lowrider........... Maybe not everyone's idea of good use of a cutlass but that is the journey. It has a 307 V8 I have heard everyone say it's a turd, sluggish, and weak on HP but honestly I don't need a sleeper or a drag car. Speed is not the need for me. So the question is ............is the 307 worth the work to get it reliable or do I bite the bullet and just swap it out for something else.
It all depends on what your engine needs.If its just a basic tune up or carb rebuild and your not looking for power the olds 307 is very reliable and nearly bulletproof if not beat on . The 307 i removed from my car for the 455 swap was one of the best starting smoothest running
motors i ever owned .Now if the motor needs a rebuild or something major i wouldn't spend the money on it .
Your 307 uses the Computer Command Control system (CCC), which electronically controls the Qjet and the distributor advance, along with some other functions. Few people knew how to properly adjust that system when it was new. Today virtually no one can fix it properly. If you intend to keep the CCC system on the car, get a Chassis Service Manual are carefully read and follow the section about adjusting the carb. There are a couple of special Kent Moore guages needed to adjust the carb. These are available on ebay from time to time. Also, there are approximately eight miles of vacuum lines on that engine, and a crack, leak, or misconnection in any one of them will throw the CCC system into fits. Also there are a number of elements of the system that are not controlled by the computer that just get old and cause driveability problems. That OBD I computer uses mid-1970s technology and is pretty stupid as far as ECUs go. Many failures don't set codes, and most codes that do set can be caused by problems other than what the troubleshooting tables tell you.
The bottom line is that the system runs very well for a driver if it is maintained and adjusted EXACTLY according to the factory manual. I have three cars with this setup, and they all run great. Just don't expect to drop this off at a shop and have them fix it. They'll either fail miserably or tell you to throw away the computer and convert to a conventional carb and distributor.
It's missing a few emblems. Wonder if repainted or simply de-badged?
Looks good though. If the ignition was off when that picture was taken, you're going to need a new power antenna cable. Very common problem. Plastic actuator cable gets brittle and snaps over the years. And a royal PITA to fix. Fixing isn't hard, it's the process of getting the antenna out where you can work on it.
I've owned my '86 since '92 or '93, if the miles are high on yours, take the pain now and replace the timing set, you can remove the oil pan while the engine is in the car but it's not one of those FUN things to do. If you are lucky, no previous owners have tried to hulk torque the oil pan bolts to stop leaks and deformed the pan rails/bolt holes, but if not, find a nice flat bench edge and tap it flat again and replace the cork gasket with something more substantial, i.e., cork/rubber or one with a metal core, you will be really happy you did. I'm not a big fan of needless parts replacement but, if you are planning to keep this for a while and drive it daily, put a good brand water pump on it and new belts...those belts on a G-Body are a project let me tell you. And like Joe said above, look at the condition of the vacuum hoses, if they look tired, replace them ALL one at time, you will be glad you did. Look on that auction site and get a GM Chassis Service Manual, it will serve you well. Mine does and always did drive smooth. Good luck!
Start with a compression test or even better, a leak down test to evaluate the condition of the engine. Drive it for a while to see if it burns oil.
If it proves to be in good condition replace the timing chain and gears, leave the 307 in there with the CCC system and drive it. Learn the CCC system through a factory manual and don't adjust things unless you understand what you are doing and are precisely following the manual.
I just bought an 88 cutlass from out of state, sight unseen. The car is clean but she doesn't run well.
Beautiful, love the color, great car, I've owned a few.
Originally Posted by 88 CUTLASS
It has a 307 V8 I have heard everyone say it's a turd, sluggish, and weak on HP but honestly I don't need a sleeper or a drag car. Speed is not the need for me.
Yes everything you heard is true. I have an 87 Code 9 version (the second most powerful Olds 307) With just about every commonly conceivable tweak done to it and its pushing around 200 HP. The car does move fairly well because its light and has great gearing.
Originally Posted by 88 CUTLASS
So the question is ............is the 307 worth the work to get it reliable or do I bite the bullet and just swap it out for something else.
Fact is its a great engine when properly maintained and driven reasonably. So if it just needs a good tune I would keep it, going by your wants and desires.
Originally Posted by 88 CUTLASS
The car will be a weekend fun cruiser while the funds are saved up to make it into a lowrider........... Maybe not everyone's idea of good use of a cutlass but that is the journey.
While low riders are not my thing, you are probably picking the best candidate weight wise for the conversion. The 1988 Cutlass Coupe 307 is the lightest V8 automatic Cutlass coupe from 1964-1988 including F85s, base standard options IIRC. Around 3200 LBS. For comparison the 1981 version 260 CID auto weighs 200 LBS more. Mid 1970s versions weigh 4000 LBS. Muscle era versions weigh 3500 LBS.
As said, the 307 is reliable and can last a ton of miles. I got over 400,000 Km out of one. Nearly every complaint on lack of power, when these were on the road was the later 307 swirl port Vin Y motors like your car. The 88 Cutlass even with the 2004R, most came with 2.56 gears, mine did, way too low. If you are lucky, you might have the only other option, the 3.08 gears. Look on the inside of the trunk lid for the option list. And these cars are not lightweight, especially the more optioned versions. My 88 Cutlass Supreme Classic Brougham weighed 3750 pounds on a certified truck scale, without a driver in it, no where near 3200 pounds. Nice car and thankfully no vinyl roof.
Not sure about your snake blinders or if it ever had any, as many people choose not to put them back on the car after a repaint because of dents or pieces missing because the cheap *** hard to find plastic clips break and fall off. Most 88 CSC's I've seen had the snake blinders. I've only owned one car that wasn't a VIN 9 H/O or 442 so I never paid attention to snake blinder applications. Never cared for them personally.
Look at this walk around video of a similar car. It shows what I'm talking about concerning emblems. Basically the front header emblem, door rocket, and perhaps trunk emblems. I have no issues with how your car currently looks, but it depends on the look you want it to have. If you want it to look factory stock, you need some emblems. If not, it looks fine smoothed out as well. Emblems are usually available on ebay and repro (Front nose rocket, trunkhole rocket, and door rocket emblems I think are available repro from The Parts Place).
GM part numbers:
Header emblem- 22519370
Nose Rocket (if you need one) - 22528812
Trunk emblem- 20000969
Trunk keyhole emblem- 20196929 ("Rocket" inside the square- repro has incorrect shaped rocket, but only one with a rocket available aftermarket)
(2) Cutlass Supreme Classic sail panel emblems - 20737357. Only one place to find these new that I can find, a guy on ebay. I know him, he's good to deal with. Click below 20737357 | eBay
Nice car, love G body Olds. Had a 84 Hurst with the 307 and 3.73 gears. A lot of fun. You do not need more.
The fuel pump leaked into the engine. And destroy the bearings. The factory fuel pump did not have a hole for fuel to leak outside the engine. Like replacements do.
May 7th, 2021, 01:17 AM
