1972 cutlass 350 block
#1
1972 cutlass 350 block
ok i read that the 1972 block produced 159 hp at 4000 rpm and the
http://www.ehow.com/list_7613083_197...obile-cutlass-
specifications.html1971 block produced 310 compression ratio was 10.2:1
http://www.ehow.com/list_7564554_197...***-specs.html
how can i get my 1972 block to get more horses increase the compression?
http://www.ehow.com/list_7613083_197...obile-cutlass-
specifications.html1971 block produced 310 compression ratio was 10.2:1
http://www.ehow.com/list_7564554_197...***-specs.html
how can i get my 1972 block to get more horses increase the compression?
#2
the 1974 block produced more ?
http://www.ehow.com/list_7513109_197...fications.html
http://www.ehow.com/list_7513109_197...fications.html
#3
ok i read that the 1972 block produced 159 hp at 4000 rpm and the
http://www.ehow.com/list_7613083_197...obile-cutlass-
specifications.html1971 block produced 310 compression ratio was 10.2:1
http://www.ehow.com/list_7564554_197...***-specs.html
how can i get my 1972 block to get more horses increase the compression?
http://www.ehow.com/list_7613083_197...obile-cutlass-
specifications.html1971 block produced 310 compression ratio was 10.2:1
http://www.ehow.com/list_7564554_197...***-specs.html
how can i get my 1972 block to get more horses increase the compression?
#7
No EGR valve on my '72. There is a Choke Heat Stove Pipe thing that connects to the carb though. Also a Charcoal/Carbon Canister... if those can be considered 'smog' related though.
When I get around to rebuilding my 350 (for the 2nd time)... I am putting '70 style pistons in it to get around 9.5:1 or so compression. That will prob be the biggest improvement, then a mild to 'good' idling cam.
When I rebuilt mine the 1st time, I made the mistake of putting a big cam in and leaving everything else stock (pistons as well). I had to put the gas pedal halfway to the floor to get it moving.
When I get around to rebuilding my 350 (for the 2nd time)... I am putting '70 style pistons in it to get around 9.5:1 or so compression. That will prob be the biggest improvement, then a mild to 'good' idling cam.
When I rebuilt mine the 1st time, I made the mistake of putting a big cam in and leaving everything else stock (pistons as well). I had to put the gas pedal halfway to the floor to get it moving.
#9
The 71's didn't have that much compression.They are pretty much the same as the 72's.They also changed their readings from gross to net,between 71 & 72,if I remember correctly.
If you want more compression,like the 70 & older 350's,then you need to change pistons to something with less dish,or a flat top.
An earlier set of 330 heads,like the #4's would bump it up a little,but not really worth it in my opinion,for what you get.
If you want more compression,like the 70 & older 350's,then you need to change pistons to something with less dish,or a flat top.
An earlier set of 330 heads,like the #4's would bump it up a little,but not really worth it in my opinion,for what you get.
#10
According to the documentation from General Motors of Canada, my 1971 Cutlass with a 350 4bbl is putting out 180 hp. This is what they say. "Note 1971 was the first year for low compression and net Horse Power ratings. Although Gross Horse Power was 260, Net Horsepower was only 180". I read somewhere that the 1972 rating was even lower about 160 Net Horsepower I believe.
#11
First off the "block" does not produce horsepower, the engine does.
Second, published HP numbers are practically worthless.
Third, if you are rebuilding and pistons will be changed, it all changes anyway.
If you keep the pistons, which have a 23 cc dish, you will be fighting those dishes to get a decent Cr.
For the record, once again. 68-70 350s had 14 cc dish and 68 cc head for low comp engines, 6 cc dish and 68 cc head for high comp. 71 and 72 350s all had 23 cc dish and 68 cc head. In 73-76 they went back to a 14 cc dish but used a #8 head with a larger (80 cc +/-) chamber to lower compression.
Second, published HP numbers are practically worthless.
Third, if you are rebuilding and pistons will be changed, it all changes anyway.
If you keep the pistons, which have a 23 cc dish, you will be fighting those dishes to get a decent Cr.
For the record, once again. 68-70 350s had 14 cc dish and 68 cc head for low comp engines, 6 cc dish and 68 cc head for high comp. 71 and 72 350s all had 23 cc dish and 68 cc head. In 73-76 they went back to a 14 cc dish but used a #8 head with a larger (80 cc +/-) chamber to lower compression.
#12
ok i read that the 1972 block produced 159 hp at 4000 rpm and the
http://www.ehow.com/list_7613083_197...obile-cutlass-
specifications.html1971 block produced 310 compression ratio was 10.2:1
http://www.ehow.com/list_7564554_197...***-specs.html
how can i get my 1972 block to get more horses increase the compression?
http://www.ehow.com/list_7613083_197...obile-cutlass-
specifications.html1971 block produced 310 compression ratio was 10.2:1
http://www.ehow.com/list_7564554_197...***-specs.html
how can i get my 1972 block to get more horses increase the compression?
"ehow"??? REALLY? You might want to try a site that's Oldsmobile specific. You stand a better chance of getting correct info.
As for the impacts of emissions controls, for those not old enough to remember, 1970 was the last year for relatively unconstrained HP output. Starting in 1971 the Feds mandated that all cars be able to run on low-lead (and later no-lead) gasoline. Olds responded by lowering compression across the board for the 1971 model year. The most radical cams (the 328 deg W-30 cam, for example) were also dropped. 1971 also saw the implementation of net vs. gross HP ratings. In this transition year, GM listed both ratings, but starting in 1972 HP was listed as net only. 1973 saw the incorporation of EGR. 1975 brought catalytic converters.
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