Gone Johnson

Voltage regulator is buzzing randomly, and lights are flickering bad enough to where it looks like I'm purposely doing it..... I've got great voltage readings, and from reading ALL the similar post here on this site, I'm going to just install a Wells VR175 (solid state regulator). Currently, I'm running an HEI, and somebody's knowledge convinced me the solid state upgrade is what's best for my setup, so this is why the Wells VR175 choice.


I'm an awesome mechanic, if I can get a thorough explanation / understanding of an unknown procedure, like converting to a 1-wire alternator, and converting the wiring that goes to the existing Voltage regulator..... if anyone has the time... or a link..... ?


Also, I installed my engine when I was a lot younger, and back then, I may have thought a ground strap was something unnecessary, or even stupid. I would like to double check the locations of the ones in the engine compartment, or fender / radiator support / front frame area, if any one knows...
Its a 1972 Cutlass Supreme, 350 /350


Thanks

joe_padavano

Step away from the one-wire alternator...

Seriously, there's no reason to do that. One wire alternators were designed for construction and ag equipment that tend to run at a constant RPM. The voltage regulator typically does not turn on until RPMs exceed 1500, so you won't charge at idle. The three wires are already in the harness, why mess with it.

I don't know anything about a VR175 - first I've heard of it. Many vendors sell plug-in replacement regulators for your current external unit. P/N D9212 is one of many available.



If you want to upgrade your alternator to an internal regulator design, simply Google 12SI wiring diagram, where you'll get this diagram:



If you do choose this route, don't waste your money on expensive aftermarket alternators. Get the 12SI for a 1987 Olds Custom Cruiser with the optional 94 amp alternator. RockAuto sells these both new and rebuilt for a fraction of what the aftermarket ones go for, and it bolts right up to your brackets.

jharsh

Joe,
I believe the one he is talking about is sold by advanced auto (Wells PN VR715). Not what I would have bought (Cheap Chin.).

joe_padavano

Ah, that would explain why I couldn't find it when I Googled "VR175"... Yet another plug-in replacement, though the shorty case is a new one on me. Sadly, I suspect they ALL are Chinesium...

oldcutlass

The VR715 is a tried and true upgrade according to many who have installed it. It is a solid state direct replacement for your mechanical regulator.

hookem horns

Hey, Trump has joined CO. (Sorry, could not resist and just a joke )

I had similar problems even after replacing the VR that finally went away after replacing the connectors at the VR and Alternator. Both pigtails are very cheap. On missing ground straps, try to find a Chassis Manual for details but there should be one from the firewall to block.

Fully agree with Joe on keeping the current 3 wire system in place or going to a 12SI if you want to upgrade.

rob1960

I went the "VR-175 route on my '68 also. My car always started fine but the voltage was low at idle & the lights flickered a bit. Hemmings did an article on these recently. There are many short cover electronic regs. on the market, some have glued on covers, some are riveted on. Mine had the glued on top which popped off easily. I took my Delco-Remy cover(after I bead blasted it & painted it) drilled the holes in the new reg. base & put it on. It looks completely factory & works great! If you don't have an original Delco cover the parts place sells one separately,I think it's $30.

oddball

One caveat to Joe's comment is that once a one wire alternator turns on it stays turned on until the alternator stops turning. So most folks fire up the engine and do a quick blip of the throttle at which point it DOES charge at idle. This is certainly true for any common aftermarket unit intended for automotive use. Low charging at idle is a different issue, and is unfortunately common with many aftermarket alternators, one wire or not, particularly "high output" units that end up trading idle output for more impressive peak output.
That said, I'm not a fan of one wire alts either, but it's not a terrible choice.


On my '72 Supreme with 350/350, there were only two ground connections.

Main battery negative cable, although frankly it's been so long since I modified it I don't remember where it went. But that one's easy.
Ground strap - small tinned braid - that runs from the transmission to block bolt that also holds the transmission dipstick (top right bolt) straight up to the firewall. This ends up being the primary ground for EVERYTHING other than the engine ignition, so it's pretty important.

Some cars also have a braid or wire from the core support - either the upper portion directly by the battery or the side panel next to the radiator - to the battery. That can particularly help headlight issues as the normal ground circuit has plenty of areas for problems.

70cutty

for whatever is worth, I have never had a problem with 1 wire alternators. Have them on multiple cars, with upgraded wiring off course, and never had a charging issue.

joe_padavano

I know a lot of people have used them without issues, but all I can say is that GM tries to squeeze every penny possible out of the production process and still kept all three wires on the SI-family alternators. It is interesting to note that this is not the case with the CS-family alternators, however.

Gone Johnson

Ok, I am overwhelmed by the awesome response from you guys.
So, tomorrow I am going on a road trip in the Oldsmobile and I needed a quick fix. I have read so much about that damn Wells VR 175 solid state voltage regulator, not only here on Classic Oldsmobile, but on the Chevelle Camaro etc etc websites too.
(Google search, heyyyy)
So for 25 bucks, and the nearest AutoZone, I purchased it today and threw it in in 2 minutes. Looks exactly like an AC Delco, and it is a tall cover and not a short one like the picture in the posting above. Don't know why. But it is solid state. Flickering lights are gone and all problems have diminished. I cannot believe it is Chinesium (hahaha), and I feel worry free now. By the way, the voltage regulator I replaced was also a Chinese one not AC Delco. So I'm not a traitor yet .
In my picture of the recently installed VR 175 regulator, you can see I have a braided ground strap connected from the engine to the firewall. I mean tranny bolt.
So switching to the one wire higher amp alternator, is still very interesting to me. And so far I am only out 25 bucks....
If my little 500 Mile Road Trip isn't all that it should be, I will need to throw away all these ideas and start again, you will see me complaining here hahaha...

Gone Johnson

- Oh, ugly scratches come courtesy of Autozone / Duralast (who Wells makes this regulator for)

oddball

No, you have the ground strap going to the A/C box bolt. This is NOT an actual ground point. The car may be lucky enough to have some contact between the firewall and that bolt to make a ground, but it's weak at best. That is actually a stud that is part of the fiberglass heater box on the inside, passes through a hole in the firewall, through the A/C evap box, then with a speed nut on it. Both fiberglass boxes are isolated from the firewall using strip caulk.

Move the braid to using on of the voltage regulator bolts. Make sure there's no paint between the braid and the firewall.

Gone Johnson

Oh my gosh, thanks Oddball ..... I just saw your response. I never noticed that!! Will change immediately!!
New regulator is working great, no noises, but flickering lights still abound. Ill correct this ground strap today, and make sure the little 10 (or 12) ga. wire on the negative battery cable is attatched too. I removed a bunch of crappy aftermarket stereo wires from my olds, and it was never connected to anything either.....
Frusterating, buy still trying to make it right!!

Gone Johnson

Update:
Correcting the ground strap location to actual metal, as suggested, did wonders, as well, I grounded the neg battery cable to actual metal on the fender. Flickering lights gone, as well as a bunch of other annoying electrical issues!