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Got KYB shocks for the 67 Delta. Note how well they fit the holes in the lower control arms. The upper hole in the photo is aligned with the control arm hole.
I'm guessing KYB has consolidated part numbers, as these are the same front shocks that are also listed for the 64-67 A-body cars. I ended up slotting the holes in the cross bars all the way to the end to get the bolts in. The Monroes that came out were similarly slotted from the factory. Unfortunately, this doesn't leave a lot of meat for the bolt to capture. I'm using large, thick washers, but I'm still not thrilled.
It's tough building classic cars now days. The quality of parts is just so darn **** poor.
I am replacing wheel bearings again in one of my cars. This is the second set in two months.
Tom double check your rotors too, I replaced my wheel bearings 2x then realized the rotor bore was too large it wasn't the wheel bearings that had play it was the rotor bore. New rotors and wheel bearings and I'm GTG
For the money you pay for those gasajust one would expect them to fit with no mods.
For that matter, one should expect any correct part to bolt up.
You gonna try and vent to KYB?
That BS burns me up.
Man, I would've returned them. That's just not acceptable.
I would agree... Maybe they were boxed and/or numbered wrong from the factory...
It would seem that the gap is just too large for an oversize washer to retain the correct position of the shock and subsequent failure could possibly occur...
I'm sure Joe knows what his options are, and simply may have no easier options at this point to get the vehicle back up mobile... Good luck Joe, like you said, the current vendor sources just aren't what they use to be...
I would agree... Maybe they were boxed and/or numbered wrong from the factory...
They're not. If you check the listings, EVERY shock manufacturer lists the same P/N front shock for Cutlass and full size that year. The factory parts book, however, has distinctly different numbers. Sure, that could be due to different shock valving, but it could also be due to different dimensional fitment. In any case, this is 100% due to poorly done part number consolidation in an attempt to service a model that isn't particularly popular.
It would seem that the gap is just too large for an oversize washer to retain the correct position of the shock and subsequent failure could possibly occur...
Keep in mind that the photo has one bolt hole on the shock crossbar aligned with the hole in the LCA. The actual mismatch is half of what you see if you center the shock properly. I'll again point out that the Monroes that I took out had the same problem but used slots in the crossbar from the factory instead of discrete holes like the KYBs. Yes, I am a little worried about the shock sliding side-to-side relative to the LCA. The thick washers I have serve to also keep the shock centered to mitigate that concern.
What did you get when giving the store the factory number to cross reference?
Not sure what your question is, exactly. I got these from RockAuto, and this is the P/N listed for a 1967 Delta 88. It's also the same P/N listed for a Cutlass. Same info on the KYB website. Every other shock manufacturer I checked also lists the same front shock P/N for D88 and Cutlass. This is obviously wrong, since I just measured the bolt spacing on the lower control arms. On the 67 D88 the bolts are 3" center-to-center. On the A-body cars (and on the later full size like my 1980s D88s) the spacing is 2.5". Again, someone incorrectly tried to consolidate part numbers. I suspect the answer is that no one makes a correct front shock for the 65-70 full size cars anymore, just as no one makes correct brake rotors, drums, center links, or upper ball joints for them.
I don't know Joe the NAPA online list OE style front shock for a 67 D88 as a NS5801 and the 67 Cutlass as NS5754. Don't if want to use them or not!
Pat
Interesting. Of course, I don't want OEM, I wanted gas-charged. Their gas shock is RR94002, which is apparently a repackaged Monroe. Guess what their P/N is for a gas charged shock for a 67 Cutlass? Bingo, RR94002.
Joe is right. Yes he is making it work. He shouldn't have to do anything but install them. This is my point with my power window problem as well. Bought new top of the line replacement power window motors and they don't work very well. Same thing we see with starters and alternators and so much other stuff these days. I just replaced the heater control valve on my Suburban for the 3rd time. All due to the part failing. We should be getting quality for our dollars spent and the part should fit. We should never have to compromise at all.
That is not true at all. Even OPGI, Fusick, and others are subject to the suppliers they get their stuff from. Rockauto has many name brand parts at a wholesale price. you can pick the brand with Rockauto. not always true with others. Just how the industry is now. So much is "off shore" manufactured. Quality is no longer a concern only quantity. It is sad.
Want stuff cheap, use RockAuto. Want good quality exact replica top quality, use Original Parts Group.
This is strictly based on my experiences.
So a KYB shock bought elsewhere for more money is "better" than one from RockAuto? Think about how ridiculous that sounds. Now show me where OPGI sells ANYTHING for a 1967 Delta 88. Sorry, but you might want to read the WHOLE thread.
Joe is right. Yes he is making it work. He shouldn't have to do anything but install them. This is my point with my power window problem as well. Bought new top of the line replacement power window motors and they don't work very well. Same thing we see with starters and alternators and so much other stuff these days. I just replaced the heater control valve on my Suburban for the 3rd time. All due to the part failing. We should be getting quality for our dollars spent and the part should fit. We should never have to compromise at all.
Larry
While I would agree that you should be able to bolt things on and be happy, the fact of the matter is quite different. Joe has already done the research and has found that all the KYB part numbers are similar between the Cutlass and Delta 88. So, that leaves you with two choices...either put a band aid on the problem and scab it together or build a new cross shaft and address the problem. I will always lean towards the latter. Instead you guys would rather complain about it than fix the problem. Granted, Joe has given a reason for not fixing the problem, however, I do not find it an acceptable practice....to each their own, I'm out.
Last edited by gear head; November 13th, 2016 at 08:12 PM.
It's tough building classic cars now days. The quality of parts is just so darn **** poor.
I am replacing wheel bearings again in one of my cars. This is the second set in two months.
Tom, Next time you need bearings and seals try BDI, (Bearing Distributor Inc) Google them for a branch near you. Ask for USA or other than chineasium junk bearings. They had the front Timkin bearings/races/seals a few years ago, that I needed, as well as the early and later design outer O type rear axle bearings and seals. Of course they will give the china pricing first...why not give both prices and let me dscide?...And the price difference was a whole $12 in total for the USA vs junk shipped to my door.
By the way the parts you sent arrived and are as you described. The roof rail is nice. Thanks! keep me in mind when you part 66-67-68-69s, always looking for nice or NOS parts.
Steve
Probably both. Its best to call and ask. Have them look at the part not the box. The BDI people know the difference as bearings and seals is a large portion of their retail sales.
November 11th, 2016, 07:45 AM
