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Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
Originally Posted by rcorrigan5
3 = GM division = Oldsmobile
J67 = model series = Cutlass Supreme convertible (series 4267)
K = engine = 350ci 2bbl
2 = model year = 1972
You know the rest!
Randy C.
The engine (L32) is not the standard engine for the Cutlass Supreme. Standard was the L34 (350 4bbl). The L32 was a downgrade for a small amount of credit against the order cost of the car. In this case, this would have to be a customer ordered car, as no dealers would order anything less than the standard. Most of the dealer ordered cars would upgrade features based on demographics and sales compatibility for their markets.
How about a picture of this car? Also, rather than tag this onto a thread that's 2 years old, it would be better if it had it's own thread.
Allan's answer confirms my thinking that the original owners wanted a very, very mild boulevard cruiser. 2bbl carb and single exhaust instead of dual. I'd like to switch to a 4bbl, preferably a Quadrajet and know I have to have the accompanying intake swap. What else is involved? Of course, this raises the age-old keep it as is or change it to what you want. She's as-is original except for an aftermarket radio and I'd like to keep it that way. But I like to drive my Old Iron and think bringing it back to the standard would make it mo' fun and be true to the original Olds intent.
Changing to a 4v and adding duals is not going to detract any value from the car. You can always save the original manifold and carb for posterity. They are simple bolt on mods, go for it.
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
I agree with Eric (the other Eric ). Only the VIN is going to give away the fact that it was a 2bbl car to start with.
What you'll need:
Intake - plenty around for them, but you really want the ones with no EGR valve holes (73 and later). You could make a block off plate for it though.
Q-Jet - 7042250 is the number you want for the 4 bbl which was the OEM spec.
4 bbl air cleaner. The one on there is for the 2bbl 2GC carb it's sporting now and won't fit a 4bbl.
If you want to make it dual exhaust, the factory method of doing this was to install an exhaust block off plate (reproduced) on the crossover outlet and then run duals straight back to the bumper. None of these cars came with the cutout bumper unless they were ordered with U or X code engines as a 442. The normal dual exhaust conversions have the pipes downturned at the edge of the rear bumper. Be aware that changing to a dual exhaust WILL make it noisier inside the car as well. It all depends on what you want the car to be. It looks stunning the way it sits now. Is it by chance original paint?
One last Q. Is this an AC car? My knowledge of the hoods says it isn't.
Thanks, Allan. And Eric -- aka The Other Eric -- captured my thinking perfectly. If I change something, keep the original in a box for a potential buyer who wants to take it back to original.
Last question first -- no, she's not got AC. Adding a unit from VintageAir or OldAir is on my list, but WAY down the list. The hood -- is that an issue or potential barrier to adding AC at some point?
Not the original paint, but a nicely done job from a few decades back that now has spider cracks, etc., making it a classic 10-footer.
My priorities are getting mechanical issues addressed -- she's hard to start after sitting overnight. And I do want the 4bbl. Needs new springs all around. Etc. Is it tough to scrounge up the appropriate air cleaner? Best source for that and intake? Newbie questions, I know.
The other priority is addressing minor rust in typical locales -- above the wheel wells, back deck and bottom of rear fender. Keeping the same color -- resale red.
The rear bumper has the cutouts, so based on your comment above, that's not original. But begs for dual exhaust. Although your point about interior noise is something I'll have to consider -- not for me, but fiancee. I've got Flowmaster 50s on my 68 C-20 and love the sound.
I agree -- love the look she has now and don't want to do anything to screw that up like jacking up the rear or any of that pimpery. She's a boulevard cruiser, not a muscle car.
Thanks, Allan. And Eric -- aka The Other Eric -- captured my thinking perfectly. If I change something, keep the original in a box for a potential buyer who wants to take it back to original.
Last question first -- no, she's not got AC. Adding a unit from VintageAir or OldAir is on my list, but WAY down the list. The hood -- is that an issue or potential barrier to adding AC at some point?
The hood should not be a problem.
Not the original paint, but a nicely done job from a few decades back that now has spider cracks, etc., making it a classic 10-footer.
Boils down to what you can live with.
My priorities are getting mechanical issues addressed -- she's hard to start after sitting overnight. And I do want the 4bbl. Needs new springs all around. Etc. Is it tough to scrounge up the appropriate air cleaner? Best source for that and intake? Newbie questions, I know.
Your starting issues can be as simple as a choke or tuning issues Your front springs are probably ok, you may need a new set of rears, an inexpensive easy repair. One of the guys on here may have an intake, carb, and air cleaner they can sell you.
The other priority is addressing minor rust in typical locales -- above the wheel wells, back deck and bottom of rear fender. Keeping the same color -- resale red.
Your probably looking at a full repaint as matching faded colors is tough. Again, its what can you live with.
The rear bumper has the cutouts, so based on your comment above, that's not original. But begs for dual exhaust. Although your point about interior noise is something I'll have to consider -- not for me, but fiancee. I've got Flowmaster 50s on my 68 C-20 and love the sound.
If you stick with stock manifolds, then you just remove the crossover pipe and block the second port with an aftermarket or fabricated plate. You can leave the existing single exhaust and ad a second pipe or replace the wholes system with new. Mufflers are a personal choice, you can make it as loud or quiet as ou want.
I agree -- love the look she has now and don't want to do anything to screw that up like jacking up the rear or any of that pimpery. She's a boulevard cruiser, not a muscle car.
That was my first reaction -- dump the grandma 14s with the thin white stripe and get -- oh, hell, I forget the designator for Olds sport rims (SSI?) and some redline tires in 15 inch. But ya know, this deeply retro look with the hubcaps is starting to grow on me. As for a repaint -- already figured I'd have to go that route, but want to keep the same color and pin striping. Kinda like it. Bottom line -- I want a slightly more aggressive sound and performance but also want to hold the line on the look she already has. I did something similar with that 68 C-20.
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
Originally Posted by EdEarl56
Last question first -- no, she's not got AC. Adding a unit from VintageAir or OldAir is on my list, but WAY down the list. The hood -- is that an issue or potential barrier to adding AC at some point?
Not an issue at all. It just validates a running commentary about 72 cars that were produced with and without AC. Without AC, the factory hood for the CS had no faux hood louvers, and did have rear cowl vent piercings. Many people argue this point.
Originally Posted by EdEarl56
Not the original paint, but a nicely done job from a few decades back that now has spider cracks, etc., making it a classic 10-footer.
The PNT code on your cowl tag should read 75 A. That's Matador Red with a white top. My first 72 was code 75 75 and it was beautiful even just parked! Not resale red....
Originally Posted by EdEarl56
My priorities are getting mechanical issues addressed -- she's hard to start after sitting overnight. And I do want the 4bbl. Needs new springs all around. Etc. Is it tough to scrounge up the appropriate air cleaner? Best source for that and intake? Newbie questions, I know.
Sounds a lot like it's a carb float issue. Rear springs are easy to do, front is just a bit harder but not terrible. Not hard to scrounge a proper air cleaner. If no one down there has one, I have several I can clean up and offer for sale. Shipping from Canada can be a royal PITA even with my small business account.
Originally Posted by EdEarl56
The other priority is addressing minor rust in typical locales -- above the wheel wells, back deck and bottom of rear fender. Keeping the same color -- resale red.
The rear bumper has the cutouts, so based on your comment above, that's not original. But begs for dual exhaust. Although your point about interior noise is something I'll have to consider -- not for me, but fiancee. I've got Flowmaster 50s on my 68 C-20 and love the sound.
The cutout bumper looks cool. It could have been a dealer add on or from a PO. Yes, with that bumper it screams for a dual exhaust. Get the proper trumpet tips and it looks great! If you want a factory style exhaust, look at Gardner. They specialize in these for Oldsmobile.
The rust areas you describe are typical. Fortunately there are patch panels made for the quarters and fenders. Is it the deck lid that's got cancer or the pinchweld area for the vert top? From 10 ft, the car looks pretty amazing!
Not an issue at all. It just validates a running commentary about 72 cars that were produced with and without AC. Without AC, the factory hood for the CS had no faux hood louvers, and did have rear cowl vent piercings. Many people argue this point.
The PNT code on your cowl tag should read 75 A. That's Matador Red with a white top. My first 72 was code 75 75 and it was beautiful even just parked! Not resale red....
Sounds a lot like it's a carb float issue. Rear springs are easy to do, front is just a bit harder but not terrible. Not hard to scrounge a proper air cleaner. If no one down there has one, I have several I can clean up and offer for sale. Shipping from Canada can be a royal PITA even with my small business account.
The cutout bumper looks cool. It could have been a dealer add on or from a PO. Yes, with that bumper it screams for a dual exhaust. Get the proper trumpet tips and it looks great! If you want a factory style exhaust, look at Gardner. They specialize in these for Oldsmobile.
The rust areas you describe are typical. Fortunately there are patch panels made for the quarters and fenders. Is it the deck lid that's got cancer or the pinchweld area for the vert top? From 10 ft, the car looks pretty amazing!
Thanks, again -- you guys are giving me a crash course on Olds that is very helpful. I'll check out Gardner for the exhaust. As for the deck area rust, I've thrown in a couple of inspection photos -- tell me what you think.
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
Originally Posted by EdEarl56
As for the deck area rust, I've thrown in a couple of inspection photos -- tell me what you think.
I think you're really lucky to be catching this as early as you are. So far as I can see that's only surface rust (pinchweld areas of the vert) that I see. A good bodyshop can repair that easily.
That is NOT a 2bbl air cleaner on your car. It's a 4bbl. Pop off the air cleaner and take a look at the carb. I bet you already have a 4bbl on there. There's a number on the (right) side of the carb by the secondaries. It should start out 704.... I noted you're missing the heat pipe that runs from the exhaust manifold up to the snorkel.
I think you're really lucky to be catching this as early as you are. So far as I can see that's only surface rust (pinchweld areas of the vert) that I see. A good bodyshop can repair that easily.
That is NOT a 2bbl air cleaner on your car. It's a 4bbl. Pop off the air cleaner and take a look at the carb. I bet you already have a 4bbl on there. There's a number on the (right) side of the carb by the secondaries. It should start out 704.... I noted you're missing the heat pipe that runs from the exhaust manifold up to the snorkel.
Tomorrow, I'll pop the air cleaner assembly and take some photos to let you more learned folks tell me what I've got. And I'll look for that number.
Thanks to Allan and the rest of you, I've finally cleared up the confusion between what I have in this fine machine and what the VIN says I've got. Looks like I've got a 4 bbl QuadraJet -- has the 704 code. And, contrary to what the seller told me, Matador Red is the original color, per the cowl tag's 75A. Attached some photos so you folks can tell me whether I'm reading all this correctly. Regards, Jim.
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
Originally Posted by EdEarl56
I've finally cleared up the confusion between what I have in this fine machine and what the VIN says I've got. Looks like I've got a 4 bbl QuadraJet -- has the 704 code. And, contrary to what the seller told me, Matador Red is the original color, per the cowl tag's 75A. Attached some photos so you folks can tell me whether I'm reading all this correctly.
Jim, the carb should be 7042250. I can't make out the number on it, but it looks like it's right, so does the intake manifold. Not sure what's going on with those heat tubes though.. I also don't see the anti dieseling solenoid that should be on the front right side.
Matador red is correct. 75 is the color code, A is used to designate white convertible top.
Your car was assembled at Fisher Body Works in the second week June of 72 which makes it among the last cars produced for that model year at lansing before they shut down for re-tooling the line for 73. Body 521230! That's a lot of bodies put together at that plant.
A65 means the car was ordered with the split bench seat with fold down armrest. The CS normally came with A51 buckets, but the change to A65 was a no charge RPO.
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
Originally Posted by rcorrigan5
K = engine = 350ci 2bbl
Ok, this was bugging me especially after seeing the last set of pics posted. Normally I trust Randy's decodes and they're typically spot on. BUT, this time sir, you made an error. The K in the VIN is NOT a 2bbl , that would be the H code. K is a 350 4bbl, which is exactly what this car has, and what is standard for it's production. No wonder everything in the pictures looks right.
Ed, just as a matter of interest, if the car had come with the N10 dual exhaust option from the factory, the engine code would have been M. That would rate the hp at 200.
Ok, this was bugging me especially after seeing the last set of pics posted. Normally I trust Randy's decodes and they're typically spot on. BUT, this time sir, you made an error. The K in the VIN is NOT a 2bbl , that would be the H code. K is a 350 4bbl, which is exactly what this car has, and what is standard for it's production. No wonder everything in the pictures looks right.
Ed, just as a matter of interest, if the car had come with the N10 dual exhaust option from the factory, the engine code would have been M. That would rate the hp at 200.
Fellas,
Took a closer look at the carb code since my photo came out so blurry. Code is 7043256. If I'm reading the interpretative guide correctly, the three means it was built in 73, the 2 indicates a four-barrel, the 5 indicates Olds division and the six (or any even number) indicates an auto transmission. AH appears to be on the same line as the code -- letters that indicate where it was manufactured. On a second line is 3443 -- which means it was built on the 344th day of 1973. The remanufactured sticker does not list a date. So, I've got a QJet in probable need of a rebuild -- which I would prefer instead of doing what most people do around here. That being trash the QJet and slap on a Holley. Thanks for all the advice and information. Even the false trail was educational. I now know more about my car than I did before -- which is part of the fun of buying something 'new.' I'm not a good wrench, but I try to educate myself as thoroughly as possible so I can make a semi-knowledgeable decision about getting work done. Regards, Jim
Quick update for everyone who helped me figure out what I've got and what options I had to fix a cold start issue. As suggested by other far more knowledgeable than me, it was a combination of issues, including vac pulloff and a worn out accelerator pump. All issues appear to be resolved and she cranks up per the owner's manual. Again, many thanks to all who weighed in and helped this newbie out.
That was my first thought upon delivery -- needs new and bigger wheels, 15s most likely. But the more I drive it, the more the bone stock look appeals to me. She's set up like mom and dad's Sunday boulevard cruiser, not a muscle car per se. I dunno -- I'll cross that bridge when I come to it. Right now, I have to worry and spend money on an emergent issue with the top and the body work I know needs to be done to stop the rust. I'll worry about wheels later.
Just never been a huge fan of the hubcap option on the 70-1 & 2s. You have a few more hubcap options but you cant beat the look of the SS1, 2 &3s IMHO...
Your doing things in a logical order. Just make sure you read the date codes on the tires. Make sure they arent older than 10-12 years at most. Dangerous beyond that.
Where are you in good ole NYS?
Last edited by droldsmorland; July 11th, 2016 at 07:50 AM.
June 17th, 2016, 05:40 AM
). Only the VIN is going to give away the fact that it was a 2bbl car to start with. 
