TaterSalad

Hey guys, its been awhile since I've posted... but I've been busy. I'm going to start working on the caprice again, hopefully have her done by next car show season. Looking to get some advice.

Engine-
1976 Toronado 455 bored .030 over
Ported J heads
Stock everything.
I was told to run a marine cam for more torque, any truth to this? The advice was given by an old street racer I know who did most of his builds in the 70's..

Plans for the 455-
Big cam
C heads (Also could possibly get some K heads off a marine motor, which is better?)
Torker intake
Edelbrock 850
(Considering getting it bored another .030 over and buying the forged stroker kit to bring it to 495ci... thoughts?)


TH400 plans-
Re-seal
Shift kit
Whatever I need to make it hold up.

Got the GM 7.5, looking for something posi, low geared and a close to direct drop in for my 81 caprice, suggestions?

Any and all advice is appreciated.

oldcutlass

Is your trans a bop bolt pattern?

Marx3

I am planing to put an Olds 455 in my 79 caprice. I will keep an eye on this thread.

brownbomber77

I think the wagon needs a wagon rear axle. I know the sedans fit right into the 73-77 A bodies but the wagons' spring perches are a 1/2 inch off or something. Otherwise I'll I have are front lower control arms with polyurethane bushings. Regarding a "big cam"....you're moving around a lot of weight. Might want to go steep with the gears if you want a big cam. I know someone will chime with with a simple recommendation.

olds 307 and 403

If a sedan, look at the earlier A body or better yet the 90's caprice rear ends. Supposedly the Cop cars came with 3.42 rear ends. Unlike a G body rear end, this should be an easy find.

Marx3

as far as I know the early 90's Caprice cop cars that had the regular 205 horse 350 came with 3.42 gears. the LT1 cars came with 3.08 gears. The 265 cube versions had 3.23 rear ends. I guess you cant really miss with any of those rearends.

TaterSalad

I'm looking at going with a 4.10 gear. This car never goes on the highway definitely not my roadtrip car. I've been doing some reading online and found that the later blocks need so be sonic tested before boring or something so I doubt i'll go any further. My caprice is the sedan and I do believe a 90's B body's rear will bolt up. My dad has a 94 roadmaster, I'll have to measure.


What's a good cam size for what I'm looking for?
Torker or Performer intake?
Should I go ahead and do rocker arms as well? Or just cam and rods
11:1 compression? Any suggestions for exhaust, diameter, best sounding mufflers, etc.

I'm looking for around 600HP and 650TQ. 4.10 rear gears. Interior is already gutted, next to be done is custom fiberglass body panels since I can't find any manufactured.
There's this punk kid in town whos mommy bought him a 50,000 dolar car and put another 15,000 bucks into it and thinks he's unbeatable with his 400hp evo. I wanna show him up with a 30 year old car.

TaterSalad

Yes. My best friend's dad, who built the car, yanked the th400 out of his Bonneville.

Rallye469

600/650 is stout with a pump gas engine.(I'm assuming that's what the 11:1 compression goal Is for?)

The stoker kit will help. I think you may want to investigate some better heads. Yes, you can support that kind of power with C's or K's (or any other head seeing as you'll have to port the hell out of them), throw in some big valves, a fully adjustable rocker set up with great springs...but you may want to start off with Wenzler heads or at least Edelbrocks.

Your cam will be .580+ lift. You may want to investigate a roller set up as well.
What kind of headers can a B-body take?

Does this kid with the Evo run at the track? Shooting for an ET is better than shooting for an HP figure. And most dipshits with Evo's think they're hot **** with even 300hp.
Good luck, hope you slap the crap out of him.

-pete

BTW- there's some good engine builders here, and a few amazing ones to be found. Keeping an Olds alive with that kinda power takes some planning and knowledge.

TaterSalad

We don't have a track out here. Nearest one is a few hundred miles away but when he was mostly stock he ran 14's. He;s had lots of work since then. I had my car with me in it on a scale at my old job. Weighed in at 4200. Take me out that's around 4k. The evo weighs 3500. I need to drop at least 500. If I can get more power than him and the same weight I think i'll have a better chance since he's got me on the launch with his awd. the 4.10's would help too I'm sure.

Rallye469

I've raced a bunch of Evo's and Subarus...and I've never really been impressed with there 0-60. Even on the street where they have an edge on traction.
They usually start off slow but have a really good trap speed.
Odds are, he's got a mid to low 12 second car...at best.

The best tuner cars I've ever been up against on the street have been maniacs who know there stuff and work on Talons, plus one 3000GT.

The GT launched on me so hard he was through the intersection by the time I crossed the line...I was at 80 before I caught and passed him. That scared the hell out of me. I've never had to reel in a car that had THAT much of a jump on me.
- a side note to that race was that he tried it again a few lights up the road. On that race he blew an oil line and we pulled into a gas station together. The kid was panicked and I offered to help him out. When I pulled a 2.5 ton floor jack and a fully loaded tool box out of my trunk his jaw hit the ground.
He asked if I always carried that much gear in my car when I raced.


-Pete

oldsmike1972

The 4:10 gear is a must. Cruising is OK but highway is awful. You can substitute a 4L80E but you will need a electronic shift controller for it. A overdrive would be quite helpful with the 4:10 for sure! I run a corporate 8.5" in the wagon, you will need that or better.

There are all kinds of areas to take weight out, every 100 lbs is pretty close to a tenth faster. I've taken nearly 900 lbs out of my B-body.

That power level is significant out of a BBO. The Torker is good if you don't want anything goofy sticking out of the hood.


I'd go with a nice big Holley for the carb.

Edelbrock heads is a nice weight save off the front and flow well when worked on by an experienced hand.

The lift on my solid roller is already at 0.600 and it's making about 500 hp. If you don't like checking valve lash, potentially ALL THE TIME, get a hydraulic. I had a hell of a time getting my valvetrain stabilized and it required a stud girdle to do it.

If you are looking for more opinions, I'd ditch the BBO all together (sorry). I'd find a nice D or DX and build that. Forged 425 crank for the budget, add some good 4-bolt caps and you have a bottom end that will take a ton of boost whether it is a turbo or supercharged. If you really want to make it solid you can put a girdle in. That block took over 20:1 compression right from the factory! In any case, it depends on your budget. If you achieved 650 with a BBO, it's anybody's guess when it sprays the entire bottom end all over the asphalt. The diesel block looks like an awesome investment at that point.


Hope this helps,
Mike

TaterSalad

I've been kicking around the 440 olds build for awhile.. I do have a Garrett GTP38R 88mm turbo laying around doing nothing....


I've also been anxious to try this 5.3 vortec turbo build I read about from Hot Rod magazine. http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/...lock-for-3252/


Everything I've read is 650 is about the max for the bbo and they DONT like rpms or boost...


There is a diesel engine in an 81 cutlass for sale where I live.. first one I ever seen. There's not much round here. Nearest pull apart yard is 100 miles away and it barely has anything.

wr1970

Funny i never heard that about a bbo being maxed at 650. What i suggest is a D or dx build. Then you have a better foundation to start with. A 434 ci will give you all you need and it is a proven combo.

TaterSalad

What all is needed for the DX swap? If I can get the block cheap enough I might just do that...

wr1970

$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

TaterSalad

With every bolt I remove, the more I just want to turn back.
Yesterday I got off the intake and driver side head.. Second cylinder in has a nice big scratch. Not sure how I'm gonna get off the other head, the mounts are crap so the motor is leaning into the AC box. cant even get the valve cover off.

I can't help but to think how much easier it would be if I were building a Honda instead....

TaterSalad

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TaterSalad

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TaterSalad

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TaterSalad

My Caprice and my roommate's Truck
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