SnakeBit

1967 era cutlass 330 cars?

http://www.sandersonheaders.com/Sand...n-Cutlass.html

oldcutlass

No, I don't think those will work. American Racing headers, they are pricey.

Octania

not sure about the applications, but THANK GOD they have "left" and "right" defined:

"When sitting in driver's seat and engine in front of you, the LEFT header would be the Driver's Side on LH drive vehicles; coincidently, means the RIGHT header is on the passenger side. See the detail image above left that describes engine sides."

Almost like "left" and "right" are _THE CAR'S_ and not the observer's. Regardless of where the steering wheel and driver are located.

SnakeBit

interesting. I had read on some other older post on here that at one point, anyway, people were using the Sanderson manifolds and the 350 ones were the only ones listed for the cutlass. in addition, the same post I read, some were using 350 headers and modifying them somewhat to work. the thread said the stock style manifolds from Sanderson were an upgrade and allowed a larger downpipe since headers were non existent at the time.

oldcutlass

People use Thornton manifolds. The problem is the 64-67 Cutlass has narrower frame rails and the 68-72 headers will not (without some major persuasion) fit. I do know from some past threads some had made Hookers work, but they hang low.

SnakeBit

Thanx for the info!!! checked Thornton.. they only list for big blocks. so, don't know about fit for the 330. still on the hunt.....

SnakeBit

you are right!!!! $975.00.....OUCH!!!!!!!!

oldcutlass

Thornton sells sbo manifolds:

http://thorntonmusclecars.com/produc...aust-manifolds

Octania

I never understood that.
Evidently '67 big block A-body headers are available

http://autoplicity.com/249699-hedman...n0wRoC8Kfw_wcB

Now the only difference [to a header] between the BB and 330 is the heads are a little lower on a 330. So, in theory, if you can make a '67 400 header, you can EASILY make a '67 330 header, with simple tube mods and one more welding jig. Really, one mod to your existing welding jig. But, Nooooooooooooo.

My experience was like this
building '67 with 330 back in oh 1978
"headers not available for small block"
should have gone big block, but stuck with 330.
Headers are listed for the '68-72 with 350, buy those.

RH goes in fine. [PS the narrowar frame is fwd of the frame giant crossmember/ steering, unrelated to headers.]

LH header.... now we have a problem. The header will not go FORWARD far enough to reach proper position, by about an inch. Front tube hits on the frame. It's like the '67 engine is too far forward, or the frame too far aft. Denting the tube would close it completely off.

Hmmmmm what to do? It appeared that if one were to remove the front tube, and swap it with another handy tube up top, everything would work out. So I did. Sawed out the offending tube, checked fit, no worries. Went to store, bought various small-car exhaust pipes with sharp bends, came home and started sawing and welding. 357 welds later... front tube goes up and over to wherever the other one was, everything fits just fine. Tubes may no longer be EXACTLY the sme length, but I bet they never were anyhow.

PITA at home with only a torch to weld with; would be EASY for a header manufacturer to accomplish.

Headers sold years later at Homecoming swap meet. Buyer could not believe that they fit a '67 with small block. I told 'em I took them out of a '67 Cutlass with a 330 and I made them to fit therefore I know they fit.

Sarum

Not long after I bought my '65 Cutlass here in New Zealand about 18 months ago I did what the majority of new owners most likely do - look for headers that fit! You can see by shallowness of the engine's cast iron manifolds that they must be pretty restrictive.Obviously they were made like that as there is little room between the manifold and the car's frame.
Anyway after a lot of research I found out that Sanderson's headers do not fit our application and nobody elses did either apart from headers from Dick Miller Racing see here
http://store.dickmillerracing.com/he...block1-78.aspx
Upon realising that they would cost me over US$1140.00 with ceramic coating, the fact that they were only mild steel and would end up costing me the better part of US$2000 with delivery costs,duty and 15%GST on the combined total I put it in the too hard basket.
My car has a beautiful mandrel bent (Canadian made) all stainless system including hotdog type mufflers so I was reluctant to stick in plain steel versions at the business end.
Now I am excited again about the ARH headers, they look awesome and they are SS - imagine what they would look like all polished up.
Thanks to OldCutlass for bringing them to our attention, I am guessing they are fairly new to the market?
Yes, they are expensive but sometimes if you want the best you have to suck it up (and save up for a while too).

I would like to know what advantage/differences there are in terms of performance between the 1 7/8" and 1 3/4" tube diameter.I guess it's all to do with flow AND the scavenging effect but it would be great to hear from CO people with more knowledge.Please feel free ....
Also what sort of HP gain you would get with these headers? 20hp?

Also, have a look at the exhaust flow plates Dick Miller sells here
http://store.dickmillerracing.com/ex...lowplates.aspx The flange at the bottom of the exhaust port hole protrudes into the head and I guess they must work.Anybody know of them?

Sorry Snakebit, I seem to have hijacked your thread.Hopefully we will learn some more from this and that will make up for it.