Electric Cooling Fans
March 21st, 2014, 12:45 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 15
Electric Cooling Fans
I'm considering going to E fans to free up some horsepower on my current build, and potentially provide better cooling on my future nitrous build.
My questions are:
How much CFM should I look for on a 455 based engine?
Are there any brands that I should consider, particularly brands that won't cost an arm and a leg but are good quality?
And lastly, is it worth it? I've heard arguments for both sides, but not from the Oldsmobile community...
Thanks all!
My questions are:
How much CFM should I look for on a 455 based engine?
Are there any brands that I should consider, particularly brands that won't cost an arm and a leg but are good quality?
And lastly, is it worth it? I've heard arguments for both sides, but not from the Oldsmobile community...
Thanks all!
March 21st, 2014, 01:04 PM
#2
Beer Connoisseur
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Daly City, California
Posts: 2,090
If you search the site there is bunch of threads about this topic. If you want to spend the money buy twin Spal fans. Others have used junkyard fans out of Taurus or Stratus or similar. On my 69 Chevelle I used 2 fans out of 90s Caddy.
On a 455 I would do at least 2500cfm shrouded.
On a 455 I would do at least 2500cfm shrouded.
Last edited by 70cutty; March 21st, 2014 at 01:42 PM.
March 21st, 2014, 01:26 PM
#3
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Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Camdenton, MO
Posts: 342
My $0.02
As far as reliability, availability, cost, and flow, you're probably best off finding a GM or Ford fan that fits your radiator. A lot of the 68-72 A body guys use a 2000 ford windstar fan because they fit the radiator well. Most OEM ones move a lot of air. The windstar moves about 4000 cfm and I know a lot of big block guys use them.
Some of the aftermarket fans advertise big numbers but based on current draw and wire size, no way.
You can go the high dollar aftermarket, ie Spal, but I don't see much advantage over an OEM GM/Ford at 1/4 the price. And if it goes bad, you run to your local Auto parts store and get another. Just gotta find one that fits your cars radiator.
As far as reliability, availability, cost, and flow, you're probably best off finding a GM or Ford fan that fits your radiator. A lot of the 68-72 A body guys use a 2000 ford windstar fan because they fit the radiator well. Most OEM ones move a lot of air. The windstar moves about 4000 cfm and I know a lot of big block guys use them.
Some of the aftermarket fans advertise big numbers but based on current draw and wire size, no way.
You can go the high dollar aftermarket, ie Spal, but I don't see much advantage over an OEM GM/Ford at 1/4 the price. And if it goes bad, you run to your local Auto parts store and get another. Just gotta find one that fits your cars radiator.
March 21st, 2014, 04:29 PM
#4
Out of Line, Everytime😉
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Melville, Saskatchewan
Posts: 8,917
Either OEM fans that cover your rad or the Derale fans. Supposedly the move a lot of air and are reasonably priced US made fans. I have the Stratus 4 cyl fans, move a lot of air.
March 28th, 2014, 04:38 PM
#6
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Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Maryland
Posts: 211
I put Ford windstar dual electric fans in my 70 cutlass with a built 455 engine. It runs 180 degrees with only one fan running. These fans blow a ton of air so you really only need one fan running to keep the engine cool.
March 31st, 2014, 05:23 AM
#7
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Wakeman, OH
Posts: 1,063
I have a set of Summit dual puller fans on my '65. I switched from a mechanical flex fan to the electric fans and couldn't be happier. I have them set to come on on a thermostat but also have a manual overide switch under the dash that I use to cool it down while the engine isn't running between passes at the track.
March 3rd, 2016, 03:11 PM
#8
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Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Chester County
Posts: 18
March 3rd, 2016, 05:08 PM
#10
I used a ford fan, Lincoln mark 8 iirc, and with a 160 t stat it will sit and idle as long as I want and sit right at 160 on my gauge.on the freeway I use a manual override to turn it off. Also I'm controlling it with a progressive controller with soft start as with a normal on off type thermo switch it would nearly kill my engine of it came on at idle.
March 3rd, 2016, 07:04 PM
#15
fan controller im using http://www.summitracing.com/parts/flx-33054/overview/ has some good features and has worked flawlessly for me
March 3rd, 2016, 09:09 PM
#18
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Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Rowlett, TX
Posts: 9,945
I am running a CCI (Cooling Components Inc.) fan on my 54. It is mounted in a shroud and fits my 54. It is two speed and I control it with a toggle switch under the dash. It pulls 2500 cubic feet per minute and does the job.
March 4th, 2016, 11:10 AM
#20
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Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Maryland
Posts: 211
I don't know the part # on the fans. They came off a Ford Windstar van. You should be able to get them real cheap from a junkyard. Here is what they look like in the car.
March 4th, 2016, 08:39 PM
#23
"Trying to fix her right"
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Bartlett IL
Posts: 749
. What are you using to control these fans? I know they pull a lot of amps, so I'm curious what your using for relays. Do you have them wired separately with t-stat controllers?
March 4th, 2016, 08:42 PM
#24
FWIW i run mine dual with one switch and a 30 amp fuse. No relay. no controller, No issues. I just flip them on once i hit 185 at a light or while dricing Just my experience. My car in hot days will not go over 190 cold days i barely need the fans unless im at a reallllllly long light.
March 4th, 2016, 09:43 PM
#25
im no good with switches, i have to turn them on before i start driving or i forget. the controller im using is built to handle two fans, idk exactly how many amps my fan pulls at start up but ive read its 40+. with the soft start it keeps that huge initial draw from happening, then progressively increases fan speed with temp.
Last edited by young olds; March 4th, 2016 at 09:46 PM.
March 4th, 2016, 09:50 PM
#26
I religiously watch my gauges , so i flip the switch as i need . As for the draw of power i never ran into issue. I run an electric water pump , and the fans along with my radio and the alt. does its job. Just an old 3/4 ton mid 80's chevy truck alt bought from autozone 8 years ago.
March 5th, 2016, 04:28 PM
#29
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Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Chester County
Posts: 18
March 7th, 2016, 02:50 PM
#30
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Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Chester County
Posts: 18
My $0.02
As far as reliability, availability, cost, and flow, you're probably best off finding a GM or Ford fan that fits your radiator. A lot of the 68-72 A body guys use a 2000 ford windstar fan because they fit the radiator well. Most OEM ones move a lot of air. The windstar moves about 4000 cfm and I know a lot of big block guys use them.
Some of the aftermarket fans advertise big numbers but based on current draw and wire size, no way.
You can go the high dollar aftermarket, ie Spal, but I don't see much advantage over an OEM GM/Ford at 1/4 the price. And if it goes bad, you run to your local Auto parts store and get another. Just gotta find one that fits your cars radiator.
As far as reliability, availability, cost, and flow, you're probably best off finding a GM or Ford fan that fits your radiator. A lot of the 68-72 A body guys use a 2000 ford windstar fan because they fit the radiator well. Most OEM ones move a lot of air. The windstar moves about 4000 cfm and I know a lot of big block guys use them.
Some of the aftermarket fans advertise big numbers but based on current draw and wire size, no way.
You can go the high dollar aftermarket, ie Spal, but I don't see much advantage over an OEM GM/Ford at 1/4 the price. And if it goes bad, you run to your local Auto parts store and get another. Just gotta find one that fits your cars radiator.
March 16th, 2016, 06:33 PM
#31
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Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Maryland
Posts: 211
I have 2 of these fan setups I pulled from Windstars that were donated to the firehouse to be cut up. One was actually from one of our members cars . What are you using to control these fans? I know they pull a lot of amps, so I'm curious what your using for relays. Do you have them wired separately with t-stat controllers?
. What are you using to control these fans? I know they pull a lot of amps, so I'm curious what your using for relays. Do you have them wired separately with t-stat controllers?
March 17th, 2016, 05:37 PM
#33
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Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Chester County
Posts: 18
I used a ford fan, Lincoln mark 8 iirc, and with a 160 t stat it will sit and idle as long as I want and sit right at 160 on my gauge.on the freeway I use a manual override to turn it off. Also I'm controlling it with a progressive controller with soft start as with a normal on off type thermo switch it would nearly kill my engine of it came on at idle.
March 17th, 2016, 10:51 PM
#34
I just recently noticed my fan has the markings from the junkyard still, 98 Lincoln mk8 iirc, I'll double check tomorrow. I just got my engine running again, 195 thermostat since it's still cold here, and once the fan kicks on my temp gauge stays right at 195 in any situation. I was running it pretty hard today, had to test the new combo and my dad wanted to see what his vette could do, gauge never hit 200.
March 17th, 2016, 10:58 PM
#35
I think I forgot to say earlier. my 66 has the long water pump, wanted aluminum and couldn't find the short style like stock 66 had. Between the long pump and the fan I had to move my radiator forward so the water pump pulley wouldn't hit the fan. Idk if you'll have that problem in your car as I moved the radiator forward about the same distance as the difference between a long and short pump. I'll get the exact year off the fan tomorrow and take some pictures.
March 18th, 2016, 04:52 AM
#36
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Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Chester County
Posts: 18
I just recently noticed my fan has the markings from the junkyard still, 98 Lincoln mk8 iirc, I'll double check tomorrow. I just got my engine running again, 195 thermostat since it's still cold here, and once the fan kicks on my temp gauge stays right at 195 in any situation. I was running it pretty hard today, had to test the new combo and my dad wanted to see what his vette could do, gauge never hit 200.
March 18th, 2016, 10:11 AM
#37
It's a single fan and single speed, some ford fans have 3 wires and are two speed. From the reading I've done they have about a 40 amp initial spike, which is why I went to a controller with soft start and pwm, and continuous is supposed to be in the 20's at full speed. Idk if it's the best thing out there but for a junkyard price and my personal experience it will be my go to fan in any project it will work in
March 18th, 2016, 11:01 AM
#38
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Join Date: May 2009
Location: Woodland WA
Posts: 1,009
Use Volvo fan controller
I have 2 of these fan setups I pulled from Windstars that were donated to the firehouse to be cut up. One was actually from one of our members cars . What are you using to control these fans? I know they pull a lot of amps, so I'm curious what your using for relays. Do you have them wired separately with t-stat controllers?
. What are you using to control these fans? I know they pull a lot of amps, so I'm curious what your using for relays. Do you have them wired separately with t-stat controllers?I did a lot of research when deciding what and how on radiator cooling fan on 455 in my 47 Olds convertible. I went with junkyard 2-speed fan/shroud from 80s Taurus that fit the radiator perfectly and I switch it with a two speed fan controller from junkyard Volvos of about 80s era. They contain the necessary relays in a small and compact unit and are a cinch to wire. They're great and cheap at pick n' pull yards. I used a Bosch type relay to switch and keep fan from running on after ignition turned off. See photos. The hardest part was finding a two speed fan switch with the temp setting I wanted and than ran off the coolant. The Hollister Road Company (on the internet) can help you with that.
Aftermarket fans vastly over rate their cfms. As one poster noted just look at amperage and wire size. On my 36 Chevy with LT1 engine I found Spal which is supposed to be great to be very mediocre and their two speed programmable controller was laughable. They finally quit making it after so many complaints.
Jerry
Last edited by 47 Convertible; March 18th, 2016 at 11:03 AM. Reason: added info
March 18th, 2016, 11:23 AM
#39
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Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Chester County
Posts: 18
It's a single fan and single speed, some ford fans have 3 wires and are two speed. From the reading I've done they have about a 40 amp initial spike, which is why I went to a controller with soft start and pwm, and continuous is supposed to be in the 20's at full speed. Idk if it's the best thing out there but for a junkyard price and my personal experience it will be my go to fan in any project it will work in
March 18th, 2016, 04:57 PM
#40
Here's the pictures, excuse the mess it boiled over while breaking in the cam cause I forgot to plug the fan back in. I was able to use my existing radiator hoses after I moved the rad forward. The fan is out of a 97 mk8
79D08C5A-6252-4D56-B254-66A83AB4B269_zps9jpqhzb9.jpg
C687AF15-F8BE-48A6-B724-5D2480029DD3_zpst9uob4zk.jpg
79D08C5A-6252-4D56-B254-66A83AB4B269_zps9jpqhzb9.jpg
C687AF15-F8BE-48A6-B724-5D2480029DD3_zpst9uob4zk.jpg
Last edited by young olds; March 18th, 2016 at 05:03 PM.
