69 442 race car build
April 21st, 2014, 06:18 AM
#41
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The fixture is a piece a fellow gearhead I work with and I came up with. It started out as a fixture for lining everything up while narrowing rears and we have both machined up numerous sleeves and adapters to suit our other needs over the years. We just pass it back and forth as needed between us. It is handy.
April 23rd, 2014, 07:13 AM
#44
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May 13th, 2014, 12:50 PM
#46
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Chad that is going to be one solid car the frame work is awesome! not to mention the front end, how did you modify the drum spindles to fit the wilwood brakes? I have a 68 I want to drag and mount the wilwood brakes all the way around but it has the drums on the front. Thanks Dave
May 13th, 2014, 12:59 PM
#47
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Chad that is going to be one solid car the frame work is awesome! not to mention the front end, how did you modify the drum spindles to fit the wilwood brakes? I have a 68 I want to drag and mount the wilwood brakes all the way around but it has the drums on the front. Thanks Dave
Thank you! The spindles just need to have a tapped hole enlarged and tapped deeper as well as chamfered to a specific diameter. Wilwood includes instructions for this with the brake kit. The rotors are designed to fit onto the drum spindle it's just where the caliper mounts that needs modified. The rear will have Wilwood discs as well.
May 13th, 2014, 01:56 PM
#48
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Thanks Chad, that will save me some money and I am glad the instructions come with the kit. Keep posting the great pics and man what a quality job!! I used to restore muscle cars and I worked for many magazines you should contact Hot Rod and let them in on this job it is great!!! and the story behind it!
June 26th, 2014, 01:19 PM
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Well Dr.OLds would approve and so would Elephant Ernie!! You should really contact one of the magazines and have them do an article on your car, its a story!! and one that will keep interest. I used to work for Muscle car review, Mustang monthly, super ford, Mopar muscle and corvette fever magazines and what your making is what people need to get fired up about!!! Great job!
June 26th, 2014, 06:46 PM
#57
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June 28th, 2014, 04:03 PM
#64
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Hi Chad
Car looks good nice work, are you going to move the engine back and lower in the chassis?
That diff does look killer is that the latest design for diff housings?
Good luck with the rest of the build.
Car looks good nice work, are you going to move the engine back and lower in the chassis?
That diff does look killer is that the latest design for diff housings?
Good luck with the rest of the build.
June 29th, 2014, 04:26 AM
#65
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Bernhard, I am moving the engine a little to get a straighter shot at the pinion but not a ton as I want to use existing headers. The housing started as a bare Moser M9. Others make similar fabricated housings. They have been around for awhile.
July 14th, 2014, 08:28 AM
#68
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Fabbed up a mid plate and installed it and the front plate I got from Smitty. Still need to figure out where all of my accesories will go though before I trim down the front plate.
July 14th, 2014, 08:41 AM
#70
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Thats some serious progress Chad!! at this rate your going to have it running by Fall with no problems and it looks like a bullet proof car, Good name for the car BULLET PROOF! Keep up the good work and progress!! Your shaming me something terrrible LoL.
July 14th, 2014, 10:15 PM
#72
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Chad love the progress on your build. Concerning the alternator mount- Do a search for Frank Trimble's front motor plate, to give you ideas about a hole for alternator. I built my own alternator bracket out of 3/8" aluminum and a turn buckle. I don't really like where mine is mounted because of the belt length. The Rocket Racing front plate, that I'm using, is actually kind of flexible. I had to ad another bracket to stabilize mine. There is another option, if you have room. You could mount the alternator with the pulley facing the engine. This would allow you to get the alternator closer to the crank pulley and use a much shorter belt. I wish I had room to do it on mine.
CIMG4634.jpg
The other thing you may want to consider is using an X pipe in your exhaust. It's worth some power.
CIMG4634.jpg
The other thing you may want to consider is using an X pipe in your exhaust. It's worth some power.
July 15th, 2014, 04:00 AM
#73
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I'd put the alternator low by the oil pan to keep things short.
I believe in a limited application where an exhaust system isn't big enough there is power to be found with H and X pipes systems. In Chads case he has room to run a 3 1/2 system with a pair of bullet mufflers and dump at the axle. Should be as good as it gets if that is how he decides to go with it.
I believe in a limited application where an exhaust system isn't big enough there is power to be found with H and X pipes systems. In Chads case he has room to run a 3 1/2 system with a pair of bullet mufflers and dump at the axle. Should be as good as it gets if that is how he decides to go with it.
Last edited by Smitty275; July 15th, 2014 at 04:03 AM.
July 15th, 2014, 04:44 AM
#74
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67CF, thanks for the tip on the alternator. As of now I do plan to mount it low as Smitty said provided it works out that way with the vacuum pump routing but I will look into the Frank Trimble plate you mentioned. I also already have a 3-1/2" exhaust system for it very similar to what Smitty described that I purchased from Jim Craig many years ago. Personally I just can't stomach the sound of X-pipes.
July 21st, 2014, 05:50 AM
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My buddy Gary came over yesterday and brought a few different wheel and tire combinations that he runs on his '70 Buick to test fit on my car. I was glad to see that they both fit without any issues. The first pic is a MT 29.5x10.5S (stiff wall slick) on a 15x10 wheel and the second pic is a Hoosier 30x10.5R (radial slick) on a 15x12 wheel.
Last edited by chadman; July 21st, 2014 at 07:05 AM.
August 12th, 2014, 10:49 AM
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