19cutlass71supreme

Hello everyone. This is my first post here and I'm looking for information from the pros such as yourselves. Although I have many questions, the only question I would like answered here ( to save me from the confusion) is if the oldsmobile power package is worth it. I have a 71 cutlass s coupe and I'm looking for 400 or more hp because I want to embarrass those dumb mustang gts or chargers that messed with me. I understand that edelbrock list has changed over the years and I believe I have the newest edition of it. I have already had all the machine work done to include 10.1 compression and everything done to the heads that's on the list. As far as the parts go, should I continue on with the list since I've already jumped the gun and had the machine work done?

Semper Fi

oldstata

Welcome Marine !

I am not to qualified to answer your question but alittle more info will he helpful are you keeping stock heads or Eddie heads ? What bottom end did you go with stock v aftermarket witch brand rods/ pistons ?

Also what rear gears and trans do you plan to run most if the time your best bang is rear gears


Edit : guess the package your talking about is heads intake and cam kit
Look into the procomp heads there have been a few threads regarding them seem to be a cheaper alternative

19cutlass71supreme

Since I am a rookie I am going for the original bottom end parts. I'm also a believer in matching numbers(as much as possible ) in these old remaining American cars. But I am looking to change the top end for the big gains but I'll always have all the original parts on the shelf in the garage next to the car

19cutlass71supreme

Sorry I forgot to mention I had the rods and crank shot peened and I went with speed pro pistons. I'll be rebuilding the 350 auto tranny later with stronger parts and maybe a shift kit. I'm still looking into the best torque converter but I'll be getting a new one to go with all of this and I am considering 3.42 posi rear end

droptopron

I'm guessing since you said matching numbers you have a 350? One thing to consider is that a mechanical fuel pump won't fit with the Edelbrock heads so you'll need to go electric.

Engine alone won't meet your needs. You'll have to do the transmission & rear end and have everything working together.

oldstata

My opinion you could buy used or never installed parts from members and cut cost down that's is up to you also "cutlasefi" does custom cams this would be better than off the shelf one .

Good luck with the build hope some of the engine builders chime in

boese1978

The heads can easily be machined to accept the mechanical fuel pump, it cost me 125$ to have that done to my aluminum heads.

19cutlass71supreme

I am still using the original heads and yes it is a 350

19cutlass71supreme

Here is the list I am going off of. I have the second set of heads listed on this recipe

19cutlass71supreme

Any one else have any suggestions?

Smitty275

Just my opinion......the Power Package isn't worth it. Mainly because of the camshaft. Its old school and a modern grind will leave it in the dust in more ways than just peak power.

19cutlass71supreme

Do you think the 7111 edelbrock intake and 750 carb is still a good choice? I'll be using msd with 6AL and later upgrading to the full ram air hood/kit

cutlassefi

Use the Edelbrock intake but not the Edelbrock carb. I'd do a QF 750.


Jmo

oldstata

Why don't you like Eddie carbs now I haven't played to much with carbs but I like the 600 Cfm carb that I put on my 330
Just curios

19cutlass71supreme

Ok so the specs for that edelbrock cam is valve lift 0.496 int/0.520 ex duration at 050 224 int/234 ex and advertised 290int/300ex.

Would anyone say that is too much for a pretty aggressive street car? Would I loose or hurt anything with a cam this big in a 350 bored 40 over and ported out heads and the prw 1.6 stainless full roller rockers?

coppercutlass

My current cam is a 512\512 lift 227\234. Duration @ .050 and it idles very nice. It has a nice choppy idle but consistent. Plenty of low end grunt. That edelbrock cam is just outdated. I bought my cam from howards the cam and lifter kit was 170 from summit. Just a .030 over 350 with 10 to 1 compression.

19cutlass71supreme

Does she have that throaty muscle car idle? And how does it act when you hit gas real hard?

coppercutlass

Let's just say smoking them from a 20 mph roll is no issue from a stand still shreds em. It's got the sound
If the video don't work click the title at the top of the youtube page.

19cutlass71supreme

Damn that sounds like an angry beast. I found the cam on the website but there is 2 of them. One has a lobe separation of 110 and the other is 112. Everything else is the exact same. Which one is the one you have? If you don't mind me asking

coppercutlass

I got the 110.

19cutlass71supreme

Ok cool.. Hey thanks a lot for your help.. When my heads come back I'll be asking you what size valves and springs to use. As of now I'm gonna go with the prw 1.6 full roller rockers. Would you oppose that?

olds 307 and 403

Upgrade to a 2500 stall converter, will help the launch. You need to match the cams power band. A trans cooler is a good idea with bigger stall.

19cutlass71supreme

I just checked Summit and saw the Hughes performance street master. They have a 2500 for $230 and a 2500 hd sprag (whatever that means) for $300 Which one should I use?

coppercutlass

I would go more towards 2700 stall J.W. transmissions has a nice 11 in. 2400-2700 stall for 309 through jegs. I have a 2800 stall but it stalls closer to 3000 it drives fine around town not a lot of slippage considering its a fleabay seller unit but it flashes at 3k which helps a lot in the launching dept. When I go to a th350 to free up some hp. I'm going to the jw converter. Remember just because it flashes at a higher stall does not mean it will slip the whole time. A good converter will do its job on the street with minimal slip and will flash at the needed stall. Wheight and the engines power will also affect the stall.

19cutlass71supreme

Cool. I'll into all of that.. But what does hd sprag mean?

coppercutlass

Its like a clutch and will only lock in one direction. It will lock at certain rpms hd means more power can be put to it.

19cutlass71supreme

Ok well would a non hd handle 400-450 hp?

oldcutlass

Don't scrimp on a torque convertor. You can call whatever manufacturer you decide to go with give them the specs of your engine and they will match one up for you.

coppercutlass

I have ran several el cheapo converters , One bottom of the barrel tci , one jegs unit , and the ebay unit which came from winners choice transmission haven't had one fail and the ebay unit actually surprised me at how well it works on the street with minimal slip . I plan on going to the 11 in. j.w. transmissions converter once I make sure the th350 I rebuilt wont screw anything up so im using a jegs brand unit to make sure it all works then once it does im going to install a j.w. unit. But yes by all means spend some coin on the converter., "off the shelf units" will always show a low and high number for stall nothing wrong with an off the shelf unit you just have to know how to pick it and ask the maker a few questions . This is because it can vary depending on may factors as I mentioned. To order a custom tailored converter you will need to know wheight of car , cam , rear gears , hp. and im sure im missing a few things. It will usually cost more since its custom tailored and not one built in mass production or atleast that's how I see it.